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  #16  
Old 08-01-2014, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williameub View Post
Oops. Double post. Here another question, how does the International water filter work? Is it a spin on filter to the pump or do you run hoses to a filter base someplace else? I know there is a big long thread on this topic but i can't use the search function on my phone.
The filter base is part of the water pump. It makes for a nice clean install
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2014, 04:45 PM
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I'd be interested in your dipstick adapter. I've been thinking about welding one in my pan for ages!
You might be able to market this JP. I know I'd be interested
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2014, 04:52 PM
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You might be able to market this JP. I know I'd be interested
And make millions?

Problem is that my current plans for it are a 3 step machining process followed by some fine welding work, so it won't be cheap!
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #19  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:23 AM
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As always, I didn’t get as much done this weekend as I’d like, but did get the water pump on and the head studs in (see pics below).

Having done the mod work on the pump itself (grinding off the extra boss, swapping over the temp sender, and adding the heater return fitting), the bolt-up was quite simple. For those of you planning this in the future, don’t forget the extra/different screws you need – 2x 60 mm long and 1x 110 mm long (M8 x 1.25).

As for the head studs, I feel like I was not prepared for the amount of manual labor involved in that job. Swap out 32 bolts with studs, no big deal, right? well, busting loose the old ones is simple enough, but requires some leverage and force. Then, two-stage torqueing the studs to 85, then 125 ft-lbs is hard work! because of this hard work, I had to re-purpose my T4 adaptor plate. …a few times 

I know it can and has been don’t, but this is not a job I’d like to do with the engine in the truck!

Wish I had gotten the LPOP done as well, but that should be a quick one.
Click the image to open in full size.

Nothing much to look at, but lots of work!
Click the image to open in full size.
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #20  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:36 AM
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oh, and i quick question on valve spring shimming. i've read through some procedures (mostly on other forums, to be honest) and it seems that 130 lbs is the closed seat force most people are using with the comp cam 910 springs i'll be using.

does this sound right? that works out to essentially the same as the factory installed height. ...so the plan is to check all the valve heights and shim only where necessary to bring it back to ~1.75"

also - i haven't seen anything about checking/replacing the valve stem seals. are they generally OK? i guess they would be if compression on the engine checked out OK - which it did.
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #21  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:52 AM
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I replaced my valve stem seals but like you said, I don't know if it was really necessary. IIRC, it sounds like you are doing the springs right.
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  #22  
Old 08-04-2014, 09:19 AM
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thanks Glenn, but now that i think of it, stem seals shouldn't have anything to do with compression as the valves are seated against the head to close off the cylinder during compression.

the valves stem seals are to keep exhaust and intake gases out of the valve cover during intake and exhaust strokes... ...right?
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #23  
Old 08-04-2014, 01:19 PM
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And oil out
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1997 F-350 xlt cclb PSD 4x4 zf5
1989 F-350 4x4 7.3 c6 auto retired
2000 F-150 XLT 4x4 4.6 e4od
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2014, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOSE_MACHINE View Post
And oil out
ha. right!

though, with our turbocharged engines, there shouldn't really be much vacuum in the cylinder ever, right?
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2014, 01:25 PM
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I think Nick's got it, not saying your theory is wrong JP.
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The Mare 97 dually cc,modified s366 turbo,stage II's,IC,studs,springs,rods,JW auto,4:10 LS,air bags,SD uvch,efuel,FS2500 bypass oil filter,HVHF IDM,IH WP,6.0 trans cooler & rad fan,MBRP 4",SD tensioner,AFE air filter,220 amp alt,38 gal rear tank & 33 gal aux bed tank,aux oil cooler,soundproofed,3 different TS chips,ac cold mod,XS batteries,riffraff hpop reservoir,aluminum radiator,HoneyBadgerJr hpop, water injection
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  #26  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:10 PM
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Let me look JP, I may just have a set of valve stem seals that are new in the package. I'll check tonight.
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  #27  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:15 PM
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that'd be awesome, Nate. the bills are piling up fast, but it'd be nice to have everything new while i'm in there - and not have to tear into it again down the road. aside from valves and seals, the rocker arm and spring retainers will be the only old stuff left under my valve covers when i'm done.

though the next question is - how would replacing the valve stem seals effect the procedure i'm planning on: i.e. with heads still on the block, i'll be installing the injectors to seal up that hole, and using my homemade compression gauge whip to pressurize the cylinder. i've read where guys have not pressurized the cylinder though and just made sure that each cylinder your working on is at the top of its stroke.

Can someone confirm that with the cylinder at the top of its travel, a valve could not fall into the cylider and the stem still be reachable from the top side of the head, even with the stem seal out?

since i have the oil pan off, it'd be quite easy to ensure that i have each cylinder all the way up before starting on that one's valves...
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #28  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:30 PM
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Correct. You won't drop the valves to where you can't reach them. You may want to do that instead of using shop air to pressurize the cylinder, but either way will work. You just can't do both unless you seal up all 8 holes or the piston will want to move to the bottom of the stroke from the pressure of your shop air. With the piston at TDC you won't lose the valves though, of that I am sure.

I'll check tonight. I got a bunch of parts in a lot of stuff I bought a year or two ago, and I want to say that there was a pack of Motorcraft valve stem seals in there. I need to check to be sure though.
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  #29  
Old 08-04-2014, 02:48 PM
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thanks for the confirmation. seems it'd be easier to do the TDC method and leave the injectors out of the way until all the springs are done anyway.

if you do find those seals, def shoot me a PM!
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96 F250 SCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - RED (RIP - the part out has begun)
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 7.3L PSD - WHITE (361k mi - DD, auto->ZF5, 3.55LS, 6637, 3"DP->StraightPipe, 33x12.5x16.5's, object of more upgrades)
97 F250 RCLB 2WD 5.8L gas - BLUE (ZF5, 3.55, distant-future-project-truck - 235k mi)
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  #30  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:12 PM
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I put new valve locks/keepers on mine when I did them. I always do that when I rebuild a set of heads. 20-30 bucks. Not all do this, it's up to you. I have seen results of a broken keeper. Not on a 7.3, but still.. I got some on ebay from a seller named falcon? I think.

On my heads I ended up with .045 shims iirc on each one. The actual installed height and seat pressure I don't remember for sure, and didn't write it down.
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:12 PM
 
 
 
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