Ok here it goes, get a complete window loom from a 93-96? I used a 95, get from the connectors above the parking brake (cut off the connector pigtail on the main dash loom)all the way to the doors, include the switches, window motor/regulators and door lock actuators if you want, in a crewcab it's huge, a regular cab it should not be so bad.
Take a pen, pad, tape measure, you need to measure all the hole sizes and the locations for the loom, label all the connectors
to me the hardest part was the loom, the doors must be off to properly drill the needed holes

drilling the hole from the inside to meet the outer hole is a challenge, the flat hardshell connector that the master switch has is big and flat,(especially crewcab) the inner hole will be more towards the front of the vehicle and up some to clear the vent, I had to grind down the backside of the vent to give the loom room (again CC loom is huge) caution there are hinge/structure reinforcements inside the pillar that can get in the way, so when you drill the outer hole feel around inside, I have aditional hole placement pics I will add later, I WOULD PLACE THE DOOR/JAMB HOLES CLOSER TO EACH OTHER AS FAR AS HEIGHT GOES, MY BOOTS ARE PULLED A LITTLE TIGHT WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN but they have stayed in place




I had the dash out for paint, but I drilled the holes with it in, the inner hole on the right side is pretty easy, the inside door shot is the left front.
now the door/regulator pics,

here is the regulator bolted in, you will need to take the bolt off the lower front glass guide and slide the regulator between the inner door skin and the glass guide.


this is it's position


1 1/16 over to the left 1 1/8 to the right of the factory window crank hole




more double check measurments



even more double check measurments
This all looks like jibberish, but I am trying


this shot is important, it is the centerline guide for the upper regulator holes, the thin line is 4 5/8 down on the left above the factory hole and 1/4 down on the right from the big hole, the reg is tilted a little, the front is down just a bit

I know, confusing, the door is not flat, 2 washers between the door and the reg on the bottom holes, about 1/8 thick


this is the only hole you have to drill in the regulator 3/8 in from edge and 2 1/2 from factory hole, I drilled out the factory hole and used a 1/4-20 body clip to help install the first bolt in the reg,






about 1/2 way down, the roller will run right to the edge of the guide through it's travel, if glass has been reset in it's channel and is not in the factory location this may be a issue

about 3 3/8 from the edge of glass to start of channel

as the glass goes down it is not flat as the roller is toward one side of it's guide, but at the top it is flat

the more worn the felts are will affect the glass angle, I used new ones and adjusted the front glass guide back as far as possible and considered shimming the rear guide forward to tighten up the glass guides

1 1/16 over and 1 1/8 down from factory square hole for power lock hole, there is already a extra hole in the latch for the actuator rod, just pop in a clip and you are done, the factory actuator is held with a BIG rivet from the factory, I used a bolt, but the nut on the inside is tricky as it has little room in the actuator, I welded a tang on a nut and slipped it in the actuator.

I gotta take a break, I will go into the rears in a follow up post

 

I will get the details about the wireing, the easy way just involves batt hot and key hot, there are cargo, dome and audio circuits in the loom that you can use

 

Super job, fitz!!
I'll be using that as a guide for my install!!

 

Me too!

Awesome write-up.

Thanks for taking the time and effort.

 

Nice Job. Thanks for sharing. REPS

 

Ok, onto the rear windows



the crewcab loom comes down the left side and wraps around the back of the cab and up to the right rear door, the square hole you see will not work for you, this panel was gone and I welded the flat panel on after the loom was in, you will need to drill a hole that will allow the door loom connectors thru, this truck was hacked up to put in seat belt bars to the roof.

regulator installed this is the template layout, I made the panel out of 16 gauge mild steel, .059 thick, that is the minimum thickness I would use, the panel flexes a bit but I dont have the lower panel in place yet.
WATCH YOUR BOLT LENGTH, they can get in the way of the moving parts

done panel mounts in this position

before and after shortening .510 spacers to move arm and glass away from motor, shorten arm to 10 3/4 from pivot to center of roller

remove stop and cut 2 more teeth in rack, I used a cut off wheel to cut teeth, I did this to get enough upward travel, it may not be needed depending upon all the variables, arm length, regulator position, I did it to make sure the window seated hard into the top channel.

the arm will actually rest on the motor in the down position, grind the outer arm so it comes to rest on the motor at the same time as the inner arm, otherwise it wants to kick sideways when it makes contact, I know there is room for improvement here, I am going to add a rubber hood stop or something, but it actually works fine and it is not violent when it touches down on the motor

This adjustment is important, the bottom glass bracket can bump the motor as it passes by the motor, turn this counterclockwise to move it away from the motor, this is also why the .510 spacers were added to the arm, it's a tight fit.

the regulator is in the opposite position from the 95, you will need to switch the 2 wires on the loom to the switch to get the button right, otherwise it will go up when the down is pushed

door lock actuator hole is 2 5/8 over from the right tag hole and about 3/4 down, again there is already a hole in the latch arm to put the actuator rod in all you do is put in the clip.
I will see if there are any more details I can add later, I have to go for now

 

Thank you very much for doing this write up!

 

looks good
now i'm curious how your going to do the switches

 

I am going to make door panels like they do on street rods, Lauan is a very workable wood (soft plywood) and you form jelutong (like balsa wood but harder, but easily workable) for the arm rest and switch pod, cover it with thin foam and cloth.
If I had a regular cab I would use those window crank switches that would look all stock

 

cool been thinking bout doing custom panels in my truck as well sort of why i was asking what you were doing
cant wait to see pics

 

Very nice write-up, great job.

 

That's a great write up. I've a CC bumpside. I like the manual windows. I may use the power locks though.

 

Awesome.... was just logging in to start searching for info on power windows.

 

Thanks everybody for the positive comments, I had to do the upgrade, here in SoCal it gets so hot that I will roll all the windows down and drive for a block or two to let the heat out, the in cab temps are usually over 140* after sitting in the sun, then I roll them up and let the A/C do it's job

As I think up some of the things I forgot in the original post I will toss them in,

When you are prepping the roller guides for the new regulator you will notice that the new roller is square, they are a exact fit into the old channel, you MUST completly clean the old guide, scrub the crap out of them, any old dry grease or dirt will stop the square roller.
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT, the old guides at the ends can have burrs on them, you MUST remove them, the new roller will NOT go into the guide, I found this out after I had the glass in the door and was trying to slide the sq roller in, test fit the rollers first would be the best idea, I found that as I was trying to get the sq roller in the guide (mind you the glass is taped in place 1/3 down and you are wrestling the regulator up in a blind hole) it would not always go in the guide very easy, be patient.

I found that having the window down down from the top about 3-4 inches (I looped several layers of tape over the top of the door to hold glass) was best to install the regulator, it gives you room to work and the roller guide is accessible.

Damn I forgot a important note to the CC guys, the rear inner latch rod must be remade, you have to go up and over the regulator, I used a couple of old linkage rods

In this mockup pic you can see what is needed, this setup is a little springy I may may beef it up some.

 

I see that the way I copied and pasted the pics they will not enlarge when clicked on, I tried it the other way but the pics were a foot tall, so go to my pics for a close up look.