1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

61-64 v 65-66

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Old 07-30-2014, 07:09 AM
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61-64 v 65-66

Is there any functional difference between the 61-64 and 65-66 other than the twin I beam suspension?

If that's it, is there any reason to go for the later years other than the availability of bolt on parts from newer trucks? Thus, for example, if I planned to buy a disc brake kit instead of scrounging salvage yards, does that nullify a lot of the benefit?

Does one handle better than the other for certain applications? Whatever truck I end up buying I will likely drive to work maybe a few times a month (~20 miles all freeway/interstate) use it for HomeDepot trips and to haul stuff as needed and take hunting, but likely will not be driving it through the woods and on a lot of uneven ground.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:42 AM
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The newer trucks have more modern engines; 352 over the 292. Updated steering, different type of steering boxes and steering columns. The twin I beams are easier to put disc brakes on over the strait axle. There are a lot of other different things that are better, IMO, that is why new models come out; improvements.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:45 AM
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The trucks with twin i-beam front ends (and '66 F100 4X4's) have lower floor boards. I think that they also have different cab mounts.

I prefer stiff axle front ends over twin i-beams because when you are bumping down a road or taking a corner, the camber is never right on twin I-beams. With stiff axles, it always stays the same.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:19 AM
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Bertha 66 nailed it, but I'll simplify it: NOTHING interchanges between the two model types except some sheet metal and some interior parts.
Nothing is interchangeable in the frames, drivetrains, steering, suspensions, cab design and even the core support.
Even some so-called "unibody" doors will look strange on a '65 or '66.
Early hoods will fit the later years, but will have emblem holes - the emblems were moved to the fenders in '65.
The best years are '65 and '66, because most components such as power steering, power disc brakes and the like can be easily swapped in with Ford salvage parts from later trucks.
The front end and frame dimensions between '65 and '79 are the same, so upgrades are easy.
I realize you said you will not be using your truck for much, but as I got older, power steering by Armstrong (especially in parking lots!) and Clutches by Arthritic Hips got lost with relatively easy swaps to power disc brakes, power steering and an automatic transmission - all for the cost of buying a rusted out truck.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:10 PM
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I have a 64 and a 66.

The engines are a wash unless you get a 240/300 in the 65/66, otherwise the 223/292/352 are outdated and expensive to upgrade.

IMO the 65/66 rides much smoother than the 61/64.

Front disc brakes are easy on both.

Power steering is not easy on 61/64 and only easy if you have a floor shift or AT in 65/66. Column shift 3 speed is difficult in 65/66 due to the rarity.

61/64 has the same track width front and rear, 65/66 is two inches wider per side on the front, it makes the truck look unbalanced.

61/64 has a generator, 65/66 has an alternator.

61/64 cost less to lower than a 65/66.

61/64 non-syncro first gear, 65/66 has the 3.03 3 speed.

IMO both are great trucks to own, I would pick the one in the best condition that needs the least amount of body work.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowrider123
The engines are a wash unless you get a 240/300 in the 65/66, otherwise the 223/292/352 are outdated and expensive to upgrade.
I would have to disagree on the 352. More expensive than a sbc? Yes. Turning one into a 390 doesn't cost much at all. Throw a Pertronix in the dizzy and what other upgrades do you need?
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:24 PM
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Not trying to highjack a thread, but for some reason I don't have a "new thread" option? Apologies in advance. If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate that as well!

Quick question: I have a 66 f250 camper special I am committed to converting to a 4wd. I have a 68 highboy frame that I will likely use, so heres my question:

Is it preferable to cut 2" from the middle of the frame or can I just move the rear axle mounts and then cut 2" off the rear frame supports? I have an awesome fab guy willing to help my situation. Still trying to figure out this website so again, if this isn't the place, a nod to the right direction would be great.
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:36 PM
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RedNeck Turning a 352 2V, single exhaust into a 390 4V, dual exhaust is about $2000 in new parts unless you can find good used parts. Around here that's next to impossible.

Thats plus labor unless you have the shop/tools/skills to do the job yourself.

Im way over tryng to make something go fast, I prefer that it is reliable and period correct in appearance.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by HodgieBravo
Not trying to highjack a thread, but for some reason I don't have a "new thread" option? Apologies in advance. If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate that as well!

Quick question: I have a 66 f250 camper special I am committed to converting to a 4wd. I have a 68 highboy frame that I will likely use, so heres my question:

Is it preferable to cut 2" from the middle of the frame or can I just move the rear axle mounts and then cut 2" off the rear frame supports? I have an awesome fab guy willing to help my situation. Still trying to figure out this website so again, if this isn't the place, a nod to the right direction would be great.
The "New Tread" tab should be just below the Unibody forum on the 61-66 forum page.
I do believe that the 68 frame is same length as the 66; so your 66 body should bolt right on without cutting.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:15 PM
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Thanks for all of the information guys. Given what I have heard, will probably stick to the 65-66 for my search.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:23 PM
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Good choice. IMHO the '66 is the best of the last... Unless you want modernity.
Eric
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:13 PM
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I know. I have looked at every model of Fords up until present and I keep coming back to these. The lines are just gorgeous and as everyone has noted, 65-66 allows you to at least easily take advantage of many advances through the 70s. Now to find one!
 
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:14 AM
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I've owned a 65 and 66 (twice) and my dad owned a unibody (I think it was a 62) with a y-block that I drove extensively when I came home from the military.

After putting a lot of miles on both solid front axle and twin I beam slicks, I prefer the 65-66's. They ride quite a bit better IMHO...and the steering seems somewhat easier in the 65-66's also.

The downside of the twin I-beam trucks is that they can't seem to stay aligned in the front end as long as a typical truck, but that's just been my experience. Maybe I'm using the wrong alignment shops! It's not a huge issue...just something I've noticed. (my wife's grandad had an early 80's model twin I beam truck with the same issue)
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 02:09 PM
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I have a 64 for two reasons, first it is the last year of the basic old school truck, and second it was the year I was born. If you want dirt simple the pre-65 models are it. If you want a good looking truck that is easier to live with the 65 and 66 are the way to go. I sometimes wish I was born 28 days later then I would be driving a 65.

First and foremost, the 300 I6 as an option in 65. The 300 is one of the best truck motors ever. Better ride (if that is what you want), easy power brake and steering upgrades, access to modern transmissions, the list goes on. In 65 Ford began advertising the F100 as a second car.

For me I like the old school feel, heck I even like my generator, single speed wipers, and am sticking with the drum brakes up front. I have a 94 F350 if I need to be pampered with an automatic and AC.
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:26 PM
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I have a '64 with the 223 and manual 4 speed and drive it everywhere. I do sometimes wish for a little more power in the engine (max speed on mine is about 65 mph) but it rides fine on the highway and hauls everything I've put in it. The solid front axle is easy to work on, you can do the tie rods, alignment, etc easily by yourself. My kingpins were badly stuck but I did get them. With the new tie rods, kingpins, alignment, good condition tires properly inflated, I love a nice highway cruise in mine. It would jerk badly to the side when hitting bumps before I replaced those items. Just wish it went a little faster or up inclines easier! The disc brakes and bigger engine would be the only things I think I would change on mine. To me the lack of power steering isn't a big deal except for going very slow and trying to make tight turns like parking.
 


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