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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #121  
Old 08-16-2014, 06:25 PM
Kyre Searcher Kyre Searcher is offline
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
I would be curious how it would react if you turned the mixture out from 1 1/2 turns to 2 turns to 2 1/2 turns.

Don't be afraid to try things. The engine will react and give you clues. Just like putting the rags over the secondaries makes it run, that is a clue you are getting too much air, or not enough fuel. That's why I am curious what would happen if you turn the screws out some.

I will try to go to 2 1/2 out and see what that does. thanks
should i try this with or without the cloth?
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  #122  
Old 08-16-2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
What happens if the 2bbl is put back on, just for a test?

As long as I have owned this truck it has always had the 4bbl, I dont own a 2 bbl, would be worth the try if I had one tho
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  #123  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:03 PM
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Probably why he sold it - couldn't get it running right.
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  #124  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
Probably why he sold it - couldn't get it running right.
I have owned this truck for years and it ran perfect up till this problem started.
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  #125  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:11 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot that. Old timer's disease.
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  #126  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:19 PM
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This is why I said you have to be methodical about your diagnosis.

It started here
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyre Searcher
My truck (1985 F150 302 holley 80457) all at once started idling hard in park, and killing out if put into gear, I thought the choke might have been sticking so I removed the choke thermostat, and installed by instructions a manual choke.
You need to go back and remember what the truck did that day before it wouldn't idle right.

Did you run a tank out of gas?
Did it overheat?
Did you hit a big bump?

Something happened...
It could be many things, but the truck is trying to give you clues.

You need to stop messing with a dozen different things and figure out why it is running lean.
We're now on page 9 and none of the usual suspects has a clue...
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  #127  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:29 PM
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I'm an un-usual suspect and I'm totally lost. I recommend one FTE'r guide things and the rest sit out. Maybe we can get some focus. I'm done, over to whomever. (It ain't me, babe! It ain't me you're looking for, babe. No! No! No, it ain't me, babe!)
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Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads, Weiand intake, Street Demon 750/ZF5/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
1969 Super Bee awaiting restoration
1950 Chevy 3100 in queue
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  #128  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:29 PM
Kyre Searcher Kyre Searcher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
This is why I said you have to be methodical about your diagnosis.

It started here

You need to go back and remember what the truck did that day before it wouldn't idle right.

Did you run a tank out of gas?
Did it overheat?
Did you hit a big bump?

Something happened...
It could be many things, but the truck is trying to give you clues.

You need to stop messing with a dozen different things and figure out why it is running lean.
We're now on page 9 and none of the usual suspects has a clue...

the day this started, I drove it on break, I came up where a dirt road meets paved road, the dirt road was rutted but not severely , but enough to drive at idle speed. the switch from dirt to paved is an incline and rough bumps, so the truck always rocks hard left and hard right just as it meets pavement.

it still drove fine till it was parked. next start up was rough idle and stalling in gear
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  #129  
Old 08-16-2014, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
I'm an un-usual suspect and I'm totally lost. I recommend one FTE'r guide things and the rest sit out. Maybe we can get some focus. I'm done, over to whomever. (It ain't me, babe! It ain't me you're looking for, babe. No! No! No, it ain't me, babe!)
lol wow mr. jung, your concepts are very interesting, but the line you crossed was real, and the plants you brought with you were illegal..

Blow?

anyway, I had forgotten about the dirt road and the ruts! and I am very sorry this has went into 9 pages, I would have rather it didn't as I am sure you guys feel the same.

Could the ruts and bumps have a play in this?
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  #130  
Old 08-16-2014, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyre Searcher View Post
lol wow mr. jung, your concepts are very interesting, but the line you crossed was real, and the plants you brought with you were illegal..

Blow?

anyway, I had forgotten about the dirt road and the ruts! and I am very sorry this has went into 9 pages, I would have rather it didn't as I am sure you guys feel the same.

Could the ruts and bumps have a play in this?
if you disconnected and capped (with real vacuum caps) all of the vacuum lines, then I cannot think of how ruts and bumps could have played a role in this anymore.

vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge are the only thing i can think that will help track down the problem, assuming there are absolutely no vacuum leaks

only thing to do without gauges is to spray around the intake manifold gasket with carb cleaner to check for leaks, and when the engine is running, (with or without cloth) introduce a vacuum leak so we can know if it is running rich or lean. (if it goes faster with a vacuum leak, then it is running rich)

take care
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  #131  
Old 08-18-2014, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Omally View Post
if you disconnected and capped (with real vacuum caps) all of the vacuum lines, then I cannot think of how ruts and bumps could have played a role in this anymore.

vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge are the only thing i can think that will help track down the problem, assuming there are absolutely no vacuum leaks

only thing to do without gauges is to spray around the intake manifold gasket with carb cleaner to check for leaks, and when the engine is running, (with or without cloth) introduce a vacuum leak so we can know if it is running rich or lean. (if it goes faster with a vacuum leak, then it is running rich)

take care
OK, I have a few pics of the bottom of the carb I wanted to get an opinion on, I took a few thinking maybe one will show more than the other, and a pic of the fast idle as well as idle screws. If this all looks ok, then I am going to replace and try again, this time I will introduce a new vacuum leak as you stated and report on that.

 photo CAM00517_zpsaf923369.jpg

 photo CAM00515_zps23cc38c5.jpg

 photo CAM00517_zpsaf923369.jpg

 photo CAM00518_zps97e2026a.jpg

 photo CAM00520_zps6e37b166.jpg
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  #132  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:00 PM
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In the pic above, the primary looks like it is dented or something, but it is not, just some weird reflection, but here is a pic of the converter plate, from 4 to 2 bbl, is it possible this plate is upside down? holding the secondary's in the wrong position?

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #133  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:04 PM
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Hard to tell from your second photo, but your secondaries look way too open..
(I'm on my phone)
I can't see the pic in your second post.

The throttle stop screw has an air gap.
This should never be the case.
The throttle stop is to set curb idle speed, the engine should die if it is off the stop.
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  #134  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Hard to tell from your second photo, but your secondaries look way too open..
(I'm on my phone)
I can't see the pic in your second post.

The throttle stop screw has an air gap.
This should never be the case.
The throttle stop is to set curb idle speed, the engine should die if it is off the stop.

Ok, I am going to close the secondary's more and post post pics, and seat the curb idle to throttle, will update again.. Thanks
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  #135  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:23 PM
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Adjust those mixture screws too.
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:23 PM
 
 
 
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