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  #181  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:35 PM
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If I remember correctly you don't have a vacuum advance on the distributor. Right?
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  #182  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:42 PM
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At this point it is still revving slightly on its own while in idle, and when I give a linkage bump it revs and the rev kinda lingers back down.

I tried to put it in gear while it was idling and the engine shook and died, tried once more with same result.

The engine still seems to be a bit rough when in idle, but that was the problem that started all of this. and we are getting pretty close to getting the carb close enough to figure out what started this whole thing.
What are the mixture screws set at?
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  #183  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis View Post
If I remember correctly you don't have a vacuum advance on the distributor. Right?

I dont think so, no lines going in,

Sorry, I didnt mean to make these pics upside down or so dang big

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  #184  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:52 PM
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What are the mixture screws set at?

Right now they are at 1 3/4 out
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  #185  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:57 PM
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Ok, no vacuum advance. So forget what I was thinking. Oh - I didn't tell you so you can't forget it. And I already have, so all is well.
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  #186  
Old 08-19-2014, 04:11 PM
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Ok, no vacuum advance. So forget what I was thinking. Oh - I didn't tell you so you can't forget it. And I already have, so all is well.

Went back out and started it, started up good, still a bit high idle, a bit rough, stayed running after choke kick open, lower idle but still pretty rough, it is right now running like it did the day this problem started.

Engine runs rough in idle, engine a bi shaky, put into gear and it shakes and dies. started all at once, I did not hit any bumps, but did climb steep incline with ruts causing the truck to rock from side to side, not real hard rocking but a good rocking.

Still ran fine, parked it, came back a few hours later and started it, idling rough, had to hold the gas down a bit to get it into gear without it dying.
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  #187  
Old 08-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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On another note, this may be nothing at all, but I noticed today that the pcv valve does not set tight in the hole, when I plugged the vacuum line into it, the pcv valve moved and turned very easily,

I removed the pcv valve and cleaned it off, shook it and it rattled, normal?

while the engine was running I also removed the pcv valve and seen no changes in the rough idle.

What is the top vacuum hook up for? My pcv valve has two plugs, a larger one under a small one, the larger one is plugged into the full manifold under back of carb.

The top outlet above the larger one has always been plugged off? should I leave it that way?
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  #188  
Old 08-19-2014, 04:33 PM
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The top one is usually not even open, but if it is must be plugged.

The PCV valve should rattle. But, when you say you "removed the pcv valve" do you mean you removed it from the valve cover or took it off the hose? If from the valve cover then I wouldn't expect a change. But, if you took the PCV valve off the hose the engine should die.
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  #189  
Old 08-19-2014, 05:17 PM
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The top one is usually not even open, but if it is must be plugged.

The PCV valve should rattle. But, when you say you "removed the pcv valve" do you mean you removed it from the valve cover or took it off the hose? If from the valve cover then I wouldn't expect a change. But, if you took the PCV valve off the hose the engine should die.

Yes I removed the pcv from the cover, and yes if removed from the pcv line engine will die, that is correct..
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  #190  
Old 08-19-2014, 05:41 PM
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Wait, wait, wait...

It's idling and starts to die when you open the throttle?
If anything it should pick up off idle.
What is the pump arm gap?
Do you see two strong streams of fuel down in the primary bores when you open the throttle?

Where are the throttle plates in relation to the transfer slots when you have the curb idle screw set for a smooth idle?

How is it different if you jamb the throttle open vs slowly increasing the opening?
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  #191  
Old 08-19-2014, 05:49 PM
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Also, you should set your idle speed with the truck in gear (PK brake set, shifter in drive, AC On if you have AC. Set idle to around 750 to 800 rpm). The idle speed in neutral will be faster of course.
Maybe your not at this step yet. But your getting closer.
Good luck.
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  #192  
Old 08-19-2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CountryBumkin View Post
Also, you should set your idle speed with the truck in gear (PK brake set, shifter in drive, AC On if you have AC. Set idle to around 750 to 800 rpm). The idle speed in neutral will be faster of course.
This should all be on the sticker found on the radiator support.

The truck is never going to run right until he does a DSII conversion or goes to an HEI.
There is no ignition curve and the computer is a mindless lump at this point.

Getting it idling well is a start, but will all have to be redone once there is proper centrifugal and vacuum advance.
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  #193  
Old 08-19-2014, 07:18 PM
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this post is going to be quick and poorly written feel free to ignore all of it

  1. i don't know how to tune a carb without vacuum gauge. a person could spend years doing it, and still never get it right
  2. i wouldn't play with a carb unless i knew the fuel pressure was correctly set
  3. i would replace the pvc valve and disconnect all vacuum lines(except the vacuum gauge), you've probably already done this
  4. it could be spark plug issue, so until you get a vacuum gauge i would get an inline spark plug checker and ensure each one lights up.
  5. i wouldn't stop there I would pull all of the plugs and examine them, probably run a compression test while i was at it (BEWARE OF THE DUST, RUST, SAND that loves to jump into engines around the spark plug well)
  6. i would take a break for a day or two until the vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge arrives
this problem will be fixed eventually :P
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  #194  
Old 08-19-2014, 07:49 PM
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I gauge is a good item for tuning mixture or timing.
He is going to have to do it all over when he pulls the $50 together to get the ignition sorted anyhow.

Lots of tech's wouldn't know where to start without plugging in their scanner, but that doesn't mean one cannot figure out what is wrong IF they are given an accurate reporting of the symptoms

The problem is when the vehicle is fiddled with without actually fixing it.
THEN you may have multiple issues disguising one another, or it is now well and truly dead and unable to run enough to figure it out.
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  #195  
Old 08-19-2014, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
I gauge is a good item for tuning mixture or timing.
He is going to have to do it all over when he pulls the $50 together to get the ignition sorted anyhow.

Lots of tech's wouldn't know where to start without plugging in their scanner, but that doesn't mean one cannot figure out what is wrong IF they are given an accurate reporting of the symptoms

The problem is when the vehicle is fiddled with without actually fixing it.
THEN you may have multiple issues disguising one another, or it is now well and truly dead and unable to run enough to figure it out.

Yes, I am for now going to let it sit until the gauges get here, once I get them I will post and let you guys know and go from that point. So much I have done and so far the problem is still the same.

Not for lack of help from you guys though, you all have been great.

The moment the package gets here I will be back.. Thnaks again for all your patients.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:00 PM
 
 
 
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