Ok, here’s some quick pics of my welded T4 mount in place, and some initial work on figuring where to cut the firewall for that monster DP.

Here’s the setup just tacked up.




Here it is all welded up. its pretty close to the upper left corner of the trans bell housing and the starter/spacer plate. Its about a 1/16” clearance right now, so I’ve marked where needs griding and will just belly out another 1/16” – 1/8” in that area. There’s lots of meat there in both of those pieces, so it should be fine. the other side has lots of room.




Now for the fun part – fitting the DP in there! my v-band clamp hasn’t come in yet, so I tried to tie it up with straight for mockup purposes. Yeah…. That didn’t work at all! anyway, as you can see, the Diamond Eye 4" Stainless Downpipe from Clay actually lays on the frame if I were to just bolt it up. whats tough to see is that clearance past the back of the head and the downpipe is darn near perfect. The little bit of angle to the turbo was just enough to get past those two with no problem. I’m not making any commitments with the angle grinder until I get that v-band clamp in, but it looks like just one pie-cut down near the transmission ought bring it all in line. We’ll see this weekend!




And here’s two views of what looks like it needs to be cut on the firewall. I’ve got new urethane bushings and a ¾” body lift on top of them, so the cutting needed seems to be minimal. Again, I’m not committing there until I have the clamp and cut(s) on the DP finalized though.
Goal is the have the DP and cab firewall cut and welded back up this weekend. then, the cab gets painted and put back on for good!!!





(the red line is probably where I’ll cut, just to allow for sagging of the bodymounts and engine motion.)

and, oh yeah - here's a reference pic showing the turbo clearance to the cowl. plenty of room up there - about 2" clearance all around.

 

Looking very good, JP. Keep up the good work. You'll be making smoke in no time. I hope you're keeping track of what you're getting into the turbo setup. I'm really curious to know how much this will save you over the cost of a ready made kit.

 

thanks, Nate. i've been keeping track of cost insofar as i have all of my receipts in email form. i'll definitely be tallying up the costs once i'm done everything and post it for others to reference.

i have NOT been keeping track of hours, other than to say LOOOOTS!!!

 

That's looking really good JP. I hope to do a major project like this some day.

 

Ok, I have my e fuel system all worked out finally. Haven’t tested it for leaks and pressure, but I’ll post some pics of the setup now and report on function later 
I may have posted this already, but I used a stanadyne fuel manager 30 micron pre-filter with the optional 100W heater, a stock SD bosch fuel pump and a Baldwin 2 micron post filter with appropriate base from Fleet filter. I can post PN’s later, but don’t have them with me now.
Here’s the setup mocked up in location. I’m putting new urethane body mounts and a ¾” body lift on for helping with the 4” DP fit, so in this location on the frame, there is the most room above the frame rail under the cab – so as to minimize the hang-down below the frame. its about 1” from the transfer case at the closest point.



I was able to avoid using any extra hose and just cut into the stock line from the selector to the engine. It took a lot of fiddling with pipe fittings to make it all work out there, though.

Top view


Front view – I put a t-valve coming out of the post filter for bleeding the setup after filter changes, and or siphoning fuel off if ever needed.



Here’s the side view from the passenger side showing the hang-down. Pretty much even with the transfer case, so I figure I can just extend the side-plate that protects the transfer case and protect the filters as well. just have to make sure I leave enough clearance to still be able to change that big sucker!



PS - i much preferred working OVER the frame rail, than from below :-)

 

Found a few more pics on the phone…

Here’s the s366 oil supply and return lines. I planned to use stainless lines, but my double-flare tool couldn’t even begin to flare the annealed stainless line I bought. So I went with copper and will just plan on checking the fittings frequently for the first few months of use.







And here’s the downpipe all worked out. I just took a straight run of 4” tube off the flex coupler to a 5” elbow and 5” dump out in front of the rear passenger tire. It took 2 cuts and re-welds of a 4” DP for an SD truck to make it work…





Oh, and here’s a few pics of the larger rear tank I put in. kind of goes with the e-fuel stuff above, I guess. So, I was a dummy and painted a 33 gallon bronco tank before full researching on FTE. Upon reading the older threads on this topic, I learned this is a 38 gallon tank from an 80’s truck that is a near drop in replacement for our stock tanks… so, I lost 5 gallons of storage and made a lot more work for myself in modifying the sender pickup tube. On the positive, the bronco tank fits between the frame rails with PLENTY of room to spare 



Here’s the tank mounted with modified sender sitting on top. I also Al’s bedliner’d the bottom of the tank and skid plates for extra rust/wear protection.

Here’s the rear view. Still gotta cut the extra threaded rod off…



Here’s the view through the filler hole. This tank is weird, though – there is no well in the bottom of the tank for the “showerhead” to sit. There is an oval depression in the front, but you’d have to angle the tank forward for fuel to sit there. but even then, the forward corners would be lower than that depression. So, I just left it flat and positioned the showerhead just off of the central ridge of the bottom. Should work just find, but looks weird.

 

Looks good JP! What size is the copper tubing you used on the turbo oil drain?

 

That looks really good JP. Be proud of it.

 

Bill - thanks to your and others advice that drain line 1/2" all the way. ...1/2" tube into compression fittings. I had it all set up for 3/8" npt fittings though, so I just drilled them out to 1/2" ID. cheating, I know, and not rated to 5k psi anymore, but still plenty of meat to the threads. I think I'll be OK.

ANd thanks Nick. But I'll save the feelings of pride until it's running and driving!

 

I wish I had a garage to be able to do all the work you are putting in. I guess mine will be done a couple piece at a time. Subscribing though, definitely some ingenious engineering going on here!