Is it possible to have blow head gasket and no puking from Degas Bottle. I have tried to put pressure (15 psi) using Mityvac on degas bottle and it doesn't hold pressure but I have no puking out of Degas, thoughts?

Specs:
2006
187K Miles
Flush and Filled with ELC
Coolant Filter
Sinister EGR Delete

 

With what you are describing, you have a leak in the cooling system.

Try sanding the degas bottle sealing surface smooth and level w/ fine grit sandpaper and also, if you haven't already, you may wind up needing a new cap

 

anythings Possible but puke is Common with blown HG

CORRECT ME IF I WRONG A Mity Vac only puts a Suction on things?? or do some have a Switch to flip??

Whats the symptoms???

 

I have a new degas tank and cap, new radiator and hoses. I know I need to replace the oil cooler b/c I can get temps up to 35 degrees difference in EOT and ECT. This is a new to me truck and I'm going to break down to do oil cooler dummy plugs and clean turbo also STC Fitting. I am worried about getting down to that point and then find out I have head gasket issue. I have no coolant loss and haul my Polaris Ranger in the bed so I know I'm putting heavy load but no puking. Only problem I have besides EOT/ECT temp is takes long time to crank and recently acts like motor is real tight because it's hard to turn over and takes a long time to crank. Once it cranks I get white smoke till it warms up and it runs like crap till warm then everything seems fine. FICM is good reading 48.5 I have two new batteries. Heard something about A/C compressor locking up could be problem. I wonder if the white smoke is from water leaking in combustion chamber or maybe I have injector loading up fuel or could be glow plug. I only drive truck maybe once a week and then it is only 20 miles or so.

The mityvac I have does vacuum and pressure.

 

Try to get a wiff of the smoke. Could be coolant or fuel smelling. If it just started it may not have leaked enough coolant to need topping off. Could still be EGR cooler leak just starting or an injector issue.

 

I have an EGR delete how could I have egr cooler leak? The smell is definately diesel smell. I crank it up next to the house where soffit vents are when you walk in the house you smell diesel. I have AE is there a way to test injectors with AE?

 

Run a contribution test on cold start to look for the cylinders not operating correctly.

Any oil/coolant mixing at all? I've seen non-puking blown head gaskets, but it's not common.

 

Thanks for detailed description it helps

Sounds like an Injector problem to me and possible hydrolock problem

if it trying to hydrolock then don't drive or start it at all


Time for a Bubble test first thing

then if that Passes you can branch a mechanical gauge off the degass bottle line and drive it see if it peaks out over 12psi




Cool I didn't know that
Mine must be a cheaper version or I don't know how to use it

 

I agree on a possible injector issues, but still doesn't explain the inability for the coolant system to hold pressure. That still sounds like a leak.

 

Leaky injector cup crossed my mind when I was posting

But seams like he would be making coolant IIRC


but agree coolant system problem

 

With no EGR cooler, on the truck it would be hard to imagine that being the problem . Missed that on your first post.

I don't have AE but I've read it does do a contrabution/balance test. It's a bit fussy and only displays at idle though. If it's been going on awhile it may have stored a code for c/b and help you find the offending cylinder.

As Blade35 suggested the bubble test is quick and easy and can point you to the bad injector also. Instructions are in the Tech folder. Basically you crank the engine over with the fuel pump disabled and watch for bubbles in the fuel filter housing. Combustion pressure is forced through the leaking injector back through the fuel line to the filter housing.

The glow plug system is considered emission equipment and is very good at throwing correct codes and setting a Check Engine Light. If you had a problem there you will usually have a CEL.

Leaking head gaskets almost always over pressureze the cooling system. Put a gauge on the bottle, hook it on the wiper blade and take it for a ride. At full temp it should stay under 10-12psi when accelerating.

Not sure what condition your MityVac is in but mine has had brake fluid in the pump part a couple of times and that can cause a slight leak. New o-rings can get it back in working order. If it's ok and you adapter set-up isn't leaking you should be able to find the coolant leak. The heater control valve can drip behind the engine(if your truck has one), that's a hard one to find until it get bad. Also the coolant line across the back of the engine that connects to the degas bottle can develop a stealth leak.

 

Any oil in coolant or vise versa? Maybe blown oil cooler.

 

Just a few places to look
1. heater core
2. coolant hose it wraps around the lower back of ficm housing
3. Heat control arm the screw on top has been known to leak
4. lower coolant Y to Degus
I know I said a few
5. crack or leaking CAC or Radiator/ hose

 

Are you sure that the Mityvac is not the point of the leak?

EDIT : Benny depending on the model they can do Vacuum and Pressure
Also you can get an add-on part to give you the pressure option.
Very handy. Mine does both and it metal not plastic. Cost a lot more
but you can do more with it.

You might stores at one of the Big Box auto parts stores and
"rent" a pressure tester to verify. Also you will need the screw
on adaptors. Check both the cap and the system. If you are still
not holding pressure take some child's bubble juice and use that to
to spray on places to see if you get bubbles from air leaking out.


Sean

 

Well that explains it Mines the cheap Plastic one

I bought it to Bleed brakes and IT SUCKED for that always leaks

it works for things but always a Fight guess that's what I get for going cheap