Hey guys,

After my recent rag joint issue, it got me thinking about how much I would like to get rid of my body lift. The lower steering shaft and steering gear are not in line, there is a slight angle. After a lot of reading, it seems like it SHOULD be okay, but honestly losing my steering from that rag joint failure was enough for me to want to ditch the body lift so I can get rid of that angle.

But, the reason the body lift is there in the first place is so the brake booster clears the valve cover on my engine. Does anyone know of a smaller diameter brake booster that would swap in easily?

I'm also looking for other ideas about ways I can get rid of the body lift. I don't think it's in the cards for me to hydroboost it right now unfortunately. Thanks!

 

I have a '77 F-150 and 400. With the TALL ford Racing valve covers the stock 11" booster wouldn't work. I did some asking around as you are, and I was told use the F-359 DUAL diafram booster it is 9" in diameter. Although I had my stock booster chromed I will use one from Tuff Stuff. I don't know if this will help you at all. Good luck with the truck and glad to hear all was OK with you and your Dad.

 

What booster do you have now? It's obviously not stock, if it doesn't fit without a body lift.

If the answer is anything besides "Hydroboost from a...." then you should think about hydroboost.

There are plenty of write-ups. And...throughout the entire Internet, as far as I can tell, only one detractor.

Bar none, making the brakes safe with hydroboost on my 79 is the best thing I've ever done for it.

It's been better than the axle shafts, the body damage, the diesel swaps, the onboard air, the lockers, the lift, the bushings, the shackle flip, the re-wire, the tires, the sound system, the insulation, the sound deadener, the headlamp relays, the 3G alternator, the Weiand intake manifold, the Edelbrock 1406 etc, etc, etc.

Perception is reality though.

 

Yeah, I had seen that brake booster and thought it looked like it was smaller in diameter and had the same mounting pattern. Does anyone know if an F350 brake booster from a 79 is a direct swap to a F150? Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it

Yeah I know hydroboost is the best option, but I just don't know if I can do it right now. The booster is stock, but the engine isn't which is why there's a problem with clearance. I've read the write ups and all that, but I'm still new to a lot of things and it would be pretty involved for me to do. I will do it eventually, I'm just not sure now is the best time.

 

I believe that it is a direct swap unless the push rod is a different length. I haven't completed mine switch yet as I am recovering from a heart attack and THEY won't let me do ANYTHING for the next while. I have the basic swap from T-Bear on the brake forum.

 

Pretty sure the f350 (1978) booster is what I used. I don't have the talk 460 valve covers so it really wasn't a problem but I was buy a new booster anyways so went with the upgrade. It depends greatly on which pedal setup you have. If everything you have is 79....it should bolt right in. Oh ya, brake line connections are on the other side of the MC. You'll probably have to run new lines to your proportional valve.

 

Yeah, I've read a bit more and it does seem like it's a direct swap. That sucks, at least you're still here though! Yeah I've been doing some reading in that forum too.

My pedals are kind of a little bit of a couple trucks. The bracket is from the 79, the actual pedals are from the 86 truck used in my engine swap, but the push rod is fine with the 79 F150 master cylinder. I think that would mean it would work fine with the F350 m/c. I'm not concerned with the lines, I have no problem dealing with them no biggie.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? I'm thinking this is the route I'd like to go, if it truly is a straight across swap so I can ditch my body lift.

 

I have done the 350 swap and yes, same years are a bolt in. That being said, hydroboost is truly the smallest, and mine cost barely more than a 350 booster. Not sure why you are avoiding hydroboost when it sounds like the ideal answer for you

 

When you're talking about a direct swap, are you talking about JUST the master cylinder?

I've put the F-350 booster and master cylinder on my 79 Bronco. The booster and master cylinder combo should fit on there just fine, but if youre talking about just the master cylinder (or just the booster) I think it's a toss up if it'll work. I know the booster fit onto my stock fire wall and my stock 79 pedal. The master cylinder DID have to have the lines smoohsed over to the other side.

 

If the the 11" worked fine, just too big, dual 9" should work even better as there is more diaphragm area. Can't help on the pushrod question but sounds like it will work also.

 

Alright thanks, that's good information. I'm not really avoiding it, I just don't have very much time left before I go back to school and have a LOT of other things I need to do as well. But, I also want to make sure this thing is safe, so I'm worried about getting this issue straightened out over the cosmetic things that need to be finished. The truck stops pretty well for what it is, I'm looking at other options strictly because of the steering issue I had. I'll hydroboost it eventually, it's just not in the cards right now. Thanks for the info though!

Nah, I would do it all or nothing, I wouldn't really want just the 350 booster with the 150 master. I can move the brake lines, that's okay. But I'm also looking at just swapping over to using a ujoint on the bottom instead of a rag joint. Thank you

Yeah that's what it would seem like, thanks.