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I feel like I should record everything I've done, before I forget. So far, I have:
1. Covered the seat. Just a saddle-blanket cover, not a re-cover.
2. Installed 3-point seatbelts
3. Found one-piece wheels, painted them, got new tires, and sold the old tires and wheels.
4. Replaced fuel tank sending unit float and gasket.
5. Replaced temperature sending unit (and some of the coolant as a result).
6. Replaced the windshield washer hoses.
7. Replaced a bunch of bulbs - was thrilled that it was all bulbs and no bad wiring.
8. Installed cigar lighter.
9. Repaired floor pans.
10. Replaced windshield and gasket - finally, something someone else paid for. Glass coverage is my friend. (I know, I paid for it already, but it was nice to not have to pull out my wallet at the glass shop.)
Need some help. Truck starts fine and drives fine. Getting out of the driveway takes a little coaxing. We can start the truck and let it run in the morning for a minute or two, but when we first put it in drive (or reverse) it stalls. And it might do this a couple of times.
Once it's going, there's no problem. Pre-tuneup, it would stall at stops, but that's not a problem now.
Is there something we are not doing in the start-up/warm-up sequence that we should be doing? Is there a choke adjustment that might help?
I'd Set air/fuel jets screws with vacuum gauge for highest reading. For a Auto tranny idle in D 550 rpm.
If idle to low it will stall.
The Plugs gap 0.34, The dizzy timing 6* BTDC. The points with points .017 unlessit's got the cail. smog crap then .021. Also check that vacuum advance is in good and not leaking sucking air.
orich
Need some help. Truck starts fine and drives fine. Getting out of the driveway takes a little coaxing. We can start the truck and let it run in the morning for a minute or two, but when we first put it in drive (or reverse) it stalls. And it might do this a couple of times.
Once it's going, there's no problem. Pre-tuneup, it would stall at stops, but that's not a problem now.
Is there something we are not doing in the start-up/warm-up sequence that we should be doing? Is there a choke adjustment that might help?
Sounds like choke needs adjustment. Next time you go to drive it remove the air cleaner lid. Start it up as you usually do. To protect you from burning carb backfires, use something like the eraser end of a pencil. Slowly close and/or open the choke flap just a tad by pushing on it with the pencil. In one of the 2 directions see if the idle raises a bit. Adjust the choke to match. 2X Orich on his advice.
Damnation! The nuts and bolts on the front shocks were rusted something fierce. I hosed them down with WD40 penetrating spray several times, and it was all I could do to get them off. The top ones were the worst. I ended up grinding them off on both sides:
The bottom ones were pretty tough too, though. Had to have my daughter bang on the Vice-Grips with a rubber mallet to get the first one loose. In the end, though, we got the new Monroe Gas Magnums (34900's) in:
It was too late to do the rear by the time we got these in, but I took the truck for a quick spin, and the difference was AMAZING. I mean, I knew it would ride better, but it rides a ton better. And the rear is still to come.
But, I've got see more things for you to change out. As, I look at your pictures your brake hose those rubber lines. I would not trust much longer. Looks pretty bad and like what came on the truck when new..
But, I've got see more things for you to change out. As, I look at your pictures your brake hose those rubber lines. I would not trust much longer. Looks pretty bad and like what came on the truck when new..
Orich
Aren't you a ray of sunshine this morning!
I am sure you're right about them being 42 years old. The PO was a shade-tree mechanic (not that I am not one also), and he made some odd decisions about what to change and fix and what not to. He also employed some questionable improvised techniques. But overall, the truck runs (and stops) just as it is supposed to.
All that said, I guess I'm adding brake lines to the list.
But, I've got see more things for you to change out. As, I look at your pictures your brake hose those rubber lines. I would not trust much longer. Looks pretty bad and like what came on the truck when new..
Orich
After just doing my front pads my old rubber lines are sketchy at best. Where or who do you get your metal lines through?
But, I've got see more things for you to change out. As, I look at your pictures your brake hose those rubber lines. I would not trust much longer. Looks pretty bad and like what came on the truck when new..
Orich
2X Orich! Holy Cow TQ! I can see the 1st hard panic stop bursting fluid out where that rusted metal collar meets the rubber hose. We'd like to see ya sticking around ABOVE ground. Please change these ASAP. Check all metal lines also for rust.
Daughter was pulling in the driveway and says, casually, "Daddy, the engine is smoking a little."
Of course, I was yelling, "TURN IT OFF!"
Steam comes billowing out the grill, and I think she's burned it up for sure. After it quiets down and I've pushed the truck up into my driveway, I take a look, and it seems she didn't run the coolant all out. The oil is still amber. I think Harriet will live to ride again.
It seems the little pin-hole I noticed last week was really the start of a 2 inch crack in the leading edge of the radiator, where the metal is turned up. I washed it off, scrubbed it, cleaned it, dried it, and slathered the whole area with JB Weld.
Going to give it at least 15 hours to cure before re-filling and starting her up again.
08-04-2014, 03:22 PM
