Yes, they are, and the "Newer" M18 Fuel is even a better tool

I went from 18V (12 years ago) > M18's and they were so good, the guy whom clean out my truck last September thought so too, and I replaced all with the new Fuel series, even lighter, and more power/run time.

 

Some thieves know good tools when they steal them---other crooks will even make off with that yellow brand of "tools".

Recently I scored a Fuel M12 drill----WOW what a difference that is! Comparing it to its predecessor the increased power is pretty amazing. Bought this through eBay for less than $36.01 free shipping, bare tool only!

Since I'm over stocked on the M12 batteries and chargers for my other Milwaukee tools next up might be the M12 Fuel Screwdriver then then same thing in a 1/4" hex drive impact. Next after that would be the 3/8" square drive impact.

Too many choices, not enough justification-----yet! I'll find a lame reason to get more new stuff one day soon I'm sure.

 

I've got my eye on the M18 angle grinder, cordless tools have come a long way fast with the lithium technology.
I also have a M12 3/8 ratchet wrench, 35lb torque. Its good.

The idea of buying the bare tool is a big saver and appeals to weekend mechanics like me, I can't justify spending too much , but I still want good tools.

 

Not too many of them 'yellow' things in my tool arsenal.

Mostly Milwaukee Red and the old Black tools, from the original 'Black and Decker' (which turned yellow now) and a lot of 'Porter-Cable (which is now owned by that yellow company)

And.......now I know whom I'm competing with on ebay for the bargains

jonesg = Check out the reviews on the M18 Fuel angle grinder on youtube, much better performance than the first generation M18 grinder, much over all re-designed, and features, and just slightly more cost that the M18.

I went to a supply house show last fall, and Milwaukee had a $100 credit for any old coldless drill and 2 battery trade-in, got rid of a dead 14v and dead battery's for the $100 off the cost of a new kit

Justification on buying Good tools, out weight the cost of cheap tools that don't preform or hold up for the job, on an every day usage, and when you have employee's using tools, they don't treat them like there own.

 

Ahh yes---better to know our adversaries than not huh? I'm always shocked how little some value "older" tools especially Milwaukee, Bosch etc etc of just a few years past. The only "yellow" stuff I own is two of their well designed cordless lights and a few storage boxes. Those items are so well designed and made it nearly defies that brand.

BTW I do use an auction sniper so one never knows when my one and only bid will be made-----in the last 4 seconds of the auction at that.



Sadly I've lost more tools than I've ever used up-----not a proud claim, just factual and as said quite sad on my part............

I'm a bit of a tool snob and only buy that which lasts forever. Because I'm the only user they tend to stay in near new condition forever. In fact I still own and frequently use a Bosch VS jig saw bought in the early '90's---still in its original steel case which lives in its original cardboard box.

Luckily I don't really need to justify anything, being a single guy and all. My only real decision is whether I really really NEED something rather than want it. Faced with selling off some Milwaukee V28 tools & batteries I already know morons come out of the woodwork with their BS "offers", those that more resemble insults than anything else.

I've heard of the Milwaukee trade-in/credits but not quite sure how to be alerted in advance. One of my local tool cribs gives me a 40% discount without trade ins so that might be just as good as the occasional special deals.

 

Yeh I've been drooling over the youtube reviews of the M18 fuel grinder, they have 4 poles(?) on the motor instead of 2 brushes , power output is far greater.

BTW, the red ltium battery packs are just ordinary lithium cells, the real technology is in the small PC board in the tool, it senses torque overload and shuts down the power.

4 yrs ago I spent $70 for a 120v impact wrench from autozone, it can't remove lugnuts on my old volvo, forget the van....no chance. That was $70 I could have put toward a quality tool. Junk is no bargain at any price.

Around Boston theres a lot of Milwaukee M18 tools on craigslist, maybe they're selling off their xmas gifts or getting out of the trades.

 

There's nothing more disappointing than buying any tool for 50% of the better version only to have it crap out long before expected. Honestly I have several tools I've not used in 5+ years but I know once powered up they'll run perfectly. Whatever I paid--and it was peanuts I'm sure---was and will remain well spent tool money.

Talking with the local tool retailer specialist who tends to be honest about warranty issues, which come back most often the M18 and M12 systems are very very rare which delights me. Besides showing I have something to gloat about I'm assured my choices will be long lasting. Others scoff, sneer their cheaper stuff is just as good but I know sooner rather than later they'll be needing more cheap stuff.

Slightly on topic I received the replacement torque multiplier tool but sadly it was in the same condition as the previous version, seems the eBay seller isn't aware some of their products are defective like this. They're working to resolve this for me so it doesn't seem there's any deception here. This one is going back via their return label sent just this morning.

I may just buy a new warrantied tool for $125 shipped which isn't a bad price at all. There's a 14 day money back guarantee too which makes the new buy option more and more attractive.

Thanks for looking in---updates as they happen.

 

I noticed after buying the Milwaukee impact and ratchet wrench there is no warrantee card to fill out, they pretty much know when it was sold.
One guy told me he called them about a problem and they sent a UPS tag to pick the tool up, he had it back the same week no charge or postage due.
They can afford to do that because the failure rate is so low.
And then it turns a complaint into free advertizing.

The HF 12v impact is $45 for the bare tool, the problem isn't that it won't last as long, it doesn't work for beans when new.

If my impact worked like this I'd send it for repair.

 

I've pulled my fair share of 8-lug wheels off E-150 to 350 vans over the past several years. Air is great but of course not always available. For mobile lug removal I carry a Titan 1/2" drive 30" breaker bar. I've never had a lug I could not break with that breaker bar. Every once in a while I have had some that I doubt a woman or a man not accustomed to heavy work could have broke. I split a socket once, and twisted off the breaker head once but in both those cases I had another breaker and socket to get the job done with.

I have a Makita 18v 1/2 drive impact that I use to spin off the nuts quickly, but it's the smaller version and not up to breaking lugs usually. For the tool kit I want to carry around in my vehicle, I'd rather have that small very versatile impact tool I can use in tight spaces and small fasteners, then carry the breaker bar. Just my 0.02.

 

jonesg - Milwaukee tools - The ID tag on the tool has a manufacture date on it (month/year) that the repair center can "confirm" the warranty, along with the serial number, Plus you'll need the sale's receipt for the warranty.

That's one on the biggest reason I stayed with Milwaukee, for the 5/3 year warranty. I had my M18's in for service, replacement of the key-less chuck, because the OE's would not hold a drill bit tight, and had one battery replace for not holding a charge, all under warranty (no cost)

I have a complete tool repair center about 2 miles from my 10-20 so dropping off is not a problem. (plus I buy other stuff from them)


I'm along with delgriffith on the lug nut removal, 25" beaker bar, to crack them loose, air when I'm at the shop, and you'll be surprise that an M18 - 1/4" impact driver to spin them off and on, but I'm also dealing with the washer base lug nuts for the dully which torque at 140 ftlb.

 

I go just slightly better with hand tools for lug nuts---using nothing but 3/4" drive Wright Tools USA made brand stuff. If like Del I snap a socket or twist a drive head off I've got bigger issues at that moment.

So far I've found dirt cheap a full ratchet, breaker bar and a thing Wright calls a bull bar---essentially a sliding T-handle breaker bar but with set screw to lock the head at one end or in the center---mine is centered to act as a spinner.

No anyone not accustomed or pulling on things with more force than their own body weight might not be able to remove lugs by themselves---that's what AAA and the other roadside services are for.