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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 07-22-2014, 07:59 PM
phoskins phoskins is offline
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Question M5OD / M5R2 Transmission Diagnosis

Hey everyone! I've not really posted on here yet but I have been reading a lot.

Here's the deal: 1996 4x4 F150 XLT 4.9 w/ M5OD/M5R2 5-speed transmission. 165k miles.

I've been having trouble finding gears, mainly first and second, sometimes third, from a dead stop. I have found that putting it in 4th, then moving smoothly into first sometimes works so I get moving. Once in motion, I don't have trouble finding gears at all.

I have replaced the shifter bushings as mentioned in other posts on here. Of course the bushings were gone, so the shifter is much tighter now. Unfortunately, I still have the same problem, can't find gears from a dead stop. I've found that if I can slip it into first right before I come to a stop, so I can drive it.

Do you think it could be the shift forks? Obviously that's the next thing to look at. I had the truck looked over by AAMCO last year, they found nothing wrong with the transmission at that time. The transmission is full of fluid, but I can tell it needs changed. I can handle replacing the shift forks, and since I have to drain the transmission to do that, I will put fresh fluid, in of course.

I greatly appreciate any insight you may have. Thanks!
Paul
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:13 AM
warren561 warren561 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoskins View Post
Do you think it could be the shift forks?
Yes. I think so.

I have the same exact problem with my truck. I think the forks are worn to the point where they don't let you go into another gear. Somehow going into 4th "clears" the path so you can get it into 1st or Reverse.

I just need to find the time to take the top cover off. Supposedly it's pretty easy to do yourself. Just remove the seat, the floor covering, and shifter. From there, you just need to remove the access panel in the floor of the cab. That will give you access to the top cover of the M5OD. Make sure it's in neutral and then pull the top cover off.

Remove the rubber shift rail plugs (replace with rubber ones from Ford or go with the freeze plug route), the locking pin, then slide the rails out until you can remove the forks. Watch out, there's some sort of ball bearing and spring in there that will come flying out.

Rubber plugs P/N - 1L5Z-7A107-AA

Lots of pictures and info:

96 f-150 4.9l 5speed man. - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...ift-forks.html

NO 1st or 2nd gear - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:50 AM
phoskins phoskins is offline
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Re: M5OD / M5R2 Transmission Diagnosis

Thanks, warren561. I appreciate the information. I have also read some other posts describing the shift fork replacement process. It looks like I'll be tackling this soon. I'm driving my '94 Ranger in the meantime to reduce the likelihood of the forks getting worse or breaking. Have a great day and if you do take care of the shift forks, let me know how it goes, and I'll do the same.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:09 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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your able to pull the carpet back enough to access the flooring so you can take the top off without removing the seat. i was able to do it just last month.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:25 PM
phoskins phoskins is offline
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Great! I would probably try to do it without removing the seat first, even without you telling me! I have the black rubber/vinyl flooring (which I love) and a bench seat. I will probably have help in doing this job, too.
Thanks xrsfsho.

Babe (the Blue Ox) 1994 Ranger XLT 2wd 4.0 Automatic 3.73 gears, 193k miles
Ruby (the Blue Rhino) 1996 F150 XLT 4x4 5-speed M5OD, 3.08 gears 165k miles
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:29 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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Click the image to open in full size.

No worries here is a picture of how i did it. pretty simple did it with only the company of a beer.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:15 PM
warren561 warren561 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrsfsho View Post
No worries here is a picture of how i did it. pretty simple did it with only the company of a beer.
Thanks for the picture. How is the floor lining secured to the cab floor? Is it glued? So, you just start peeling it up from the base of the firewall?

I've removed my seat many times before. I've got the bench so its pretty easy. Remove the black trim pieces from both sides, then two torx bolts to remove the seat back. The seat bottom has 4 bolts into the cab floor.

I may remove the seat just for a bit more room, then try peeling the floor covering back as you've shown in the photo.

To remove the floor covering completely, it looks like I need to remove the plastic door sills from both sides?
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:31 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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I removed the two plastic strips on the floor at the doors as well as the two plastic kicker panels too. Then the carpet was not glued down at all. I just pulled it up and folded it up the access panel for the tranny is glued and needed a flat bar to pry it up for access. Everything after that was simple. Loosen bolts and detach plug on top of tranny and remove
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:29 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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I removed the two plastic strips on the floor at the doors as well as the two plastic kicker panels too. Then the carpet was not glued down at all. I just pulled it up and folded it up the access panel for the tranny is glued and needed a flat bar to pry it up for access. Everything after that was simple. Loosen bolts and detach plug on top of tranny and remove
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:39 PM
warren561 warren561 is offline
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So I got the floor liner pulled up.

However, I can't get the stupid shifter off. I pulled the shifter boots up. I see the funny bolt/nut that holds the shifter on. It's pretty rusty.

I loosened the nut. Put it on the other side, then started tightening. I've got it as tight as I can, but I still can't slide the bolt out. There's not enough room to swing a hammer to pound the bolt out.

Am I missing something here? The video makes it look so freaking easy.

Here's a photo of my problem:
Click the image to open in full size.

The photo shows the bolt removed from the right side, placed on the left side, and tightened on the left slide. Do I need to tighten the left side more? It's already quite tight.

I assume that the bolt is now supposed to slide out to the left side?
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:12 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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Tighten it more on the left. Its only being held in now by the wedge it created when tightened on the right all the way. I used a small hammer and hit it loose but only using the side of the hammer. It will come off. Maybe get some wd40 or tranny flyid to out on the bolt to get into there to loosen it up but it will come out
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:57 PM
warren561 warren561 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrsfsho View Post
Tighten it more on the left. Its only being held in now by the wedge it created when tightened on the right all the way. I used a small hammer and hit it loose but only using the side of the hammer. It will come off. Maybe get some wd40 or tranny flyid to out on the bolt to get into there to loosen it up but it will come out
Got it! I put the nut on the right side just enough to pound on it without destroying the threads.

I'm out of daylight for now. I'll try to tackle the rest tomorrow. Thanks again!
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:09 PM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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No worries. You might need need a flat bar to get the top plate off. Remember to leave the shifter in neutral before removing it to make it run smoothly
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:18 PM
F-erOnlyRunsDwnhill F-erOnlyRunsDwnhill is offline
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Don't forget to check the trans and motor mounts. When mine were broken the trans was not sitting where it should and it was damn near impossible to find certain gears. Just my 2cents.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:25 AM
xrsfsho xrsfsho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-erOnlyRunsDwnhill View Post
Don't forget to check the trans and motor mounts. When mine were broken the trans was not sitting where it should and it was damn near impossible to find certain gears. Just my 2cents.
^^ I have seen the motor mount stiffener that have been used in the import cars that might help reduce the liability of anything happening to the trans mount. You can apply liquid urethane in the gap to make it more rigid. Most of the people where using 80A for there cars. I might try this later on to beef it up a little. This cannot be done on the motor mounts
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:25 AM
 
 
 
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