Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:32 AM
MackGuy MackGuy is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 109
MackGuy is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Clutch travel

I'm looking at (planning to buy) a 1996 F250 7.3 5 speed. It's got 400k miles, but runs great, rust free and drives fine, and it's in my price range ($5k)

The only issue with driving is the clutch disengages with the pedal almost at the floor. Big difference from my 1990. It shifts fine, and seems like the clutch itself is opearating fine. I'm guessing it's just air in the line and needs to be bled (clutch was replaced sometime fairly recently), but wanted to see what the other common suggestions would be.

Saw something about pedal bushings. Pedal did not feel sloppy or floppy, but worth checking. Can you do that without removing the pedal box? Any other adjustments?

I'm assuming worst case either the master or slave cyl is shot (or both) but is there potentially a worse (more expensive) alternative?

Is the slave cyl external to the bellhousing, or does the trans have to be pulled to replace that?

with 400k it's reasonable to assume any of these mechanical parts that have not been replaced may need to be, just trying to figure out what the likely culprit is.
__________________
90 F250 7.3 ZF5 Custom
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:32 PM
madpogue madpogue is online now
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3,435
madpogue has a very good reputation on FTE.madpogue has a very good reputation on FTE.madpogue has a very good reputation on FTE.madpogue has a very good reputation on FTE.
Congrats on the purchase and welcome to FTE; you're gonna love driving this thing, esp. a manual.

Slave cylinder is external, presses on a conventional fork. If it's the hydraulics, best replacement is a complete hydraulic kit, master-line-slave, pre-assembled, filled and bled. Cost about the same as just the master and slave (and if one is gone, the other is most likely not far behind). No bleeding, installes in minutes.

Test - have someone work the pedal, and get under and measure the fork movement at the very tip. Should be at least 1/2". If it is, then the issue is "downstream" - fork bent, pressure plate fingers weak (unlikely if it's a fairly new clutch kit). If it is, then the issue is "upstream" - hydraulics, linkage/bushings. There's a set of bushings in the shaft of the pedal box, and one bushing where the arm on the pedal shaft connects to the pushrod. That one fails frequently and is a cr@ptastic design.

Pedal box bushing test - lightly touch the brake pedal with your right foot, then work the clutch pedal with your left foot. If you feel any "feedback" through your right foot from the brake pedal, that indicates those bushings are worn. $20-ish at the dealer. Pedal box is a slight PITA to remove, but an easy job otherwise.

Shaft arm / pushrod bushing - If it's just the plastic bushing that's worn, there's a cheap/easy "upgrade" fix. Get some 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing and a 7/16" drill stop collar. Cut off a small piece of the tubing, just big enough to go in the pushrod eyelet. Install with the arm, and put the drill stop collar on the "pin" on the arm that sticks out through the eyelet. If the bushing is really shot, you'll eventually get metal-on-metal and that eyelet will be expanded (ovalized). In that case, your better option is to cut off that eyelet and replace it with a Heim joint. Options - eBay complete kit (search "Ford clutch heim joint"), or build your own.

Another thing you might check in with the seller about - when they did the clutch, did they also install a single-mass flywheel (or did it already have one)? From the factory, these trucks came with a dual-mass (aka dumb-mass) flywheel. Ticking time bomb; when the cr@ppy little bits holding the two masses together fail, the bits can go flying and grenade the tranny case.

Also, the odometer resets to 300,000 after 399,999, EVERY time it rolls past 399,999 (they literally didn't put the upper left LCD segment in the display for that left-most digit, so it can't display a "4" there). So if it's got 400,000-some miles, it may actually be more.

Is it sometimes hard to get the starter to engage? Do you have to really mash the pedal, like you're gonna put a hole in the floorboard, to get the starter to kick in?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:55 PM
MackGuy MackGuy is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 109
MackGuy is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I have only test drove the truck, not bought it yet, but most likely will. Thanks for all the feedback on the clutch system, doesn't sound too difficult.
Not sure on the flywheel, current owner hasn't had it too long, it was PO before him that did the work.

It's currently saying 397k miles. That's an interesting tidbit about the miles resetting to 300k... seems like rather a dumb design. Guess I should buy it, clean it up, drive it 3k miles and sell it as a 300k mile truck (wonder how many people have done just that... I'm sure it's happened)! Still better than my 1990 which is currently a 3,000 mile truck.

If that's common knowledge maybe explains the big price premium for the <300k mile trucks.

Had no issue starting it, but that was just one test drive.

Also the e-brake is non functional... don't think that's a big deal to fix up though.
__________________
90 F250 7.3 ZF5 Custom
Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2014, 12:55 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
mid 80's clutch pressure plate rating 10" vs 11" ??? Econo4spd Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case 3 06-24-2014 01:45 PM
Clutch pedal to the floor... Frozen_Joker 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 17 04-10-2014 08:06 AM
1988 f150 clutch issue jaltman1984 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 0 02-25-2014 03:33 PM
Clutch Issues with 89 F-250 7.3 IDI Nitro Nick 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 12-02-2013 11:56 AM
96F150 4x4 5Spd 5.0L 65f100CoryE. 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 10-23-2013 02:40 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup