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  #16  
Old 08-06-2014, 04:23 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
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Just to throw this out there:

I got these Motor-craft rotors from rockauto for $80 each with shipping. Dealer wanted around $120. But rockauto takes a week to get, so there is a plus from getting them at the dealer if you have no time.

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And these are my favorite pads for HD disc brakes.
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Made in USA too!

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  #17  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:09 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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nasty wobble when on brakes

Dear Senex. Thanks for the PM. You and I were on the same page. Since the truck doesn't seem to pull to one side I was also thought it might be driveline related. So I put the front end back on jack stands. Double checked the ball joints while I was at it. Climbed underneath. The drive shaft to the front axle is two piece. It is difficult to assess. there is a boot over the joint with permanent clamps holding on the boot. Can't tell if it would telescope smoothly. Of course there is no zerk. The universals at the front and rear of this shaft doen't have any play in them and they turn smoothly. The axle halfves are freewheeling correctly with the electric hubs off, so those universals should not be the issue. However as I sit here at the computer I realize I can lock in the manual hubs to check the universals at the axle halves. I plan to look over all of the suspension components thoroughly. However the issue seems to be related to rotation of the tires.

Dear Droidsmorland. Thanks for the info about the correct grease and procedure for the driveshaft spline. However the link does not work. If I have to tear apart that joint I might look into drilling and tapping in a zerk for future maintenance. Any comments about that. I don't know how much a zerk fitting would throw the shaft out of balance.
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  #18  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:12 PM
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The rear driveshaft is where you need to check the slip joint. That is where the problem usually is.
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  #19  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:40 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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nasty wobble when braking 2005 4wd dually diesel

Hey guys. Two people responded to my earlier post and I thought I responded in the thread so everyone could benefit in the discussion. However my responses did not show up in this thread. So I'll start again.
Dear Senex. Thanks for the PM. You and I are on the same page. Since the truck stops straight, I too was thinking driveline related. So I put the front end back on jack stands. While I was at it I double checked the ball joints. They seem OK. The front axle driveshaft is two piece. It doesn't seem to have any appreciable play in it. The spline is covered with a rubber boot, clamped on with permanent clamps. It is difficult to determine if it will telescope correctly. I wonder about drilling and tapping in a zerk, if I do disassemble the joint/boot after removing one of the u joints. The u joints, fore and aft seem to be good. With the electric 4wd switch in 2wd, the wheels freewheel fine. So the axle halves do not turn. So these universals should not be a part of my condition. As I sit here at the computer, it dawned on me, that I could lock the manual hubs and turn the wheels to check those U joints anyway. Additionally, I spun each front wheel after applying the brake pedal to ensure I did not have a sticking caliper. Doesn't appear so. Any ideas to try next? Will putting a zerk in the drive shaft throw it significantly out of balance?
Dear droidsmorland. Thanks for your PM regarding the appropriate grease and procedure to lube my driveshaft spline. However the link won't work.
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  #20  
Old 08-06-2014, 05:43 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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nasty wobble when braking 2005 4wd dually diesel

Senex thanks again. Obviously you saw my first attempt to respond. I'll check the rear drive shaft tomorrow. Look for my feed back then.
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  #21  
Old 08-06-2014, 06:05 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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nasty wobble when braking 2005 4wd dually diesel

Well I couldn't wait till tomorrow. Checked the rear driveshaft with wheels chocked, parking brake on and transmission in neutral. All three universals are good. There is ever so slight movement in the spline. Maybe 1/64" (a guess of course) rotational difference in the two halves. This slight movement felt smooth, not rough and free. Again there is a rubber boot on this joint. I would like to know a good procedure to grease both my front and rear driveshaft splines
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2014, 06:12 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
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Basically just cut the 1 of the stainless bands and pull it apart. While I have not done that on a super duty, I have on multiple Jeeps, I dont see why it would be any different. You can reinstall with stainless zip ties if you wish.

My tom woods 4x4 driveshafts in my Jeep Cherokee look like this. No boot, just a cover. You will the female part of the slip joint housing completely with grease, so it pushes the old junk out. This also keeps the shaft tight as it is keeping a bit of pressure on the blue section (so much so that I sometimes need to pull the zerk in order to pull the driveshaft. The zerk will not cause any imbalance issues.

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  #23  
Old 08-06-2014, 07:42 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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nasty wobble when braking 2005 4wd dually diesel

thanks for the info Aaubinoe. I'll plan to do this but I doubt it will fix my condition.
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  #24  
Old 08-14-2014, 08:27 PM
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Hot rotor - NEW

Ok, so I put on new rotors (all 4) and pads. Cleaned and greased the sliders, pistons are free, etc... So I took it for a drive and after a while I smelled hot brakes. Using my digital thermal scanner, I have the following rotor temps.

RF - 303
LF - 175
RR - 150
LR - 153

The RF rotor since it's all shiney and new it shows that it got hot enough to put a blue tint on it? The RF already has the machined new crosshatching worn off. The LF still shows it. It appears a hell of a lot of brake pressure is on the RF? It did not drive like anything was hung up. Any ideas?

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  #25  
Old 08-14-2014, 09:57 PM
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Inspect the caliper. The piston may not be retracting due to a bad caliper or the soft line has collapsed internally. Did you support the caliper when changing the rotors and pads or let it dangle by the hose? Either way replace both front soft lines and bleed the whole system. Brake fluid should be changed every other year or every 50K.
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  #26  
Old 08-14-2014, 11:29 PM
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Big-Foot Big-Foot is offline
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Have you replaced the brake hoses on the front yet? They are famous for delaminating on trucks where the brakes are pushed hard and the fluid boils.. When they delaminate, they don't release pressure very quickly and some get to the point where they will hold pressure for many minutes..

Also - do you have ABS brakes?
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2014, 05:45 AM
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fairlaniac fairlaniac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-Foot View Post
Have you replaced the brake hoses on the front yet? They are famous for delaminating on trucks where the brakes are pushed hard and the fluid boils.. When they delaminate, they don't release pressure very quickly and some get to the point where they will hold pressure for many minutes..

Also - do you have ABS brakes?
Yes - ABS
No new hoses, will get some
Fluid - 2 months fresh

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  #28  
Old 08-15-2014, 06:03 AM
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replace at least the one line but I recommend doing both fronts. New fluid will have to be added of course.
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2014, 08:05 AM
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It may well be a bad caliper even if the pistons can be pushed in when cold. I've had calipers that only stick when hot, and free up again when cold, in fact my left front caliper did that a month ago. Locked up solid on a long downhill stop-and-go situation, disc was at 800 degrees, freed up after it cooled off and I drove the rest of the 1600 kms home being very light on the brakes... I just replace the calipers when that happens. I always do them in axle pairs. I know everyone always notes that it could be other things, like ABS or flexible lines, but I've never had it be anything other than the calipers.

Brian
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  #30  
Old 08-24-2014, 03:26 PM
51bigguys 51bigguys is offline
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New post wanted

I am tagging on this old thread because I can't figure out how to start a new one. Would someone kick me in the a**!
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:26 PM
 
 
 
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