I've adjusted the strikers and replaced the plastic bushings, the latches and pins are tight, open and close nice. Bottom half of the door just sticks way out-Are the hinges just bent from doors being slung open over the years ?

 

Hanging doors is a big pita. If the bottom is sticking out when the door is closed, you need to adjust the bottom hinge on the door side. Keep in mind, this will also cause the top to come out. Lots of loosen/smidge/tight/check-repeat.

 

Oh ya, I think the latch post is the last thing to adjust. I removed mine until I got the door hanging correctly than installed and adjusted it.

 

You can check your hinges by opening the door and try lifting in up, if your hinges have free play they are worn and you need new ones

 

The hinges are all-way adjustable. On some trucks you can never even everything out. I usually line up the area where the "dent" and cowl are first then get the bottom edge close and the top just ends up wherever.

Never seen a bent hinge. They don't bend.

As pa f250 said, adjust the hinges with the latch striker off. Install the striker when the door is perfectly lined up.

 

thanks for the replies everyone-Also need to adjust my core support too, big gap in between the hood and tops of the fenders too, funny thing is i've had the bodywork done for 5yrs now and the gaps just have to go

 

Just have to be patient and take your time, yes lots of loosen/smidge/tight/check-repeat.

X2 on getting the main body "dent" lines to line up. And X2 on the hinges do not bend down, yes the bushings get worn out and they can get sprung from being opened to far and the area on the door where the hinge mounts will be bent, but I have never seen a hinge bent down.

Door hinge 101: You could look at the hinges on the driver side compare them to the passenger side. You will see that there is only two hinges and they are upside down on one side of the truck, ford only made 2 hinges for the 4 locations, so take the hinge you need from the opposite side off a truck in the wrecking yard as the passenger sides get used way less.
So lower driver side hinge matches upper passenger side - they are the same part
And upper driver side hinge matches lower passenger side - they are the same part

Also before you ever remove a door for body work, paint ect. Especially if you are using the same door and hinge, scribe mark where the hinge is positioned that way is will be easy to line back up. And if you can, at least leave the hinge on the truck or the door.

 

Closing up those gaps between top o fender and cowl is tough. The bottom of the fender basically has no upward adjustment. The rad support up/down can help a bit with the fender to door gap tapering from top to bottom. Because the fender bolts right to the rad support, those slots in the fender top really don't do much and you have to basically push or pull the whole front clip (inner fenders, rad, and fenders) at the inner fender support brackets to open or close the fender to door gap.

It helped me to think carefully about each step instead of just loosening things and moving them around. Not everything moves like you would think it might and most times an improvement in one area tweeks something in another.

 

Remember the cowl is fixed and fenders have to be adjusted to get that gap correct. Once that's done, then the front edge door gap, and like stated before, go for a good "dent "line up on each side.

Then the hood will be outa wack, make sure your hood hinges are not sprung or bent, and you have the rubber bumpers on the hood.

Core support is mounted to the frame with rubber bushings and can be a PITA to get apart. There is really no height adjustments, as far as I know.

Ck the cab mount bushings, them being dry rotted or god forbid you have rusty/weak front cab mounts and then the front of the cab settles, you can be chasing your tail on gaps.

 

Also these trucks from the factory never had perfect fitment. You just gotta go for a happy medium.

 

there are round disc spacers to use to lift up the core support, the core support bolt goes right through them, they have been on many trucks Ive pulled apart. the thickness of the bushing is set though, you can adjust up, kinda impossible to lower the bushing-and I'd say if you have to lower it that something else is waaaay out of whack elsewhere with frame or cab

 

You're welcome: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...l#post14087874

 

Yes "four sixty power" that idea/advise on the hinges was all yours, thank you for it. I just copied and pasted out of my saved file, to pass it around.

 

Knowledge is meant to be shared, I was up late last night, same as tonight, I should have put some humour into my responses

 

No problem, no worries, I am a lot more thick skinned, understanding, open minded and tolerant than some folks on here or at least try to be.