ok looks like im picking up this complete modified engine runner with auto (prob a c6) only thing that may stop me is if its only a 351m instead of a 400 find out when I look tomorrow block casting number is d7te-a2b , also strongly thinking of a 4 speed wr auto , either e4od or modified aod with jw ultra bell ended with a true trac 9" with a ratio aprox 3.25 to 1
pics of the motor
motor is meant to be out of an early 80's f150 2wd
my plan to add to the rebuild clean up is a pair of cj v4 oc heads with aprox 76cc , an aprox 32cc forged anodised piston set with a ecu set up sequential spark and injection intake toped by a whipple with a valley mounted intercooler sunk down in the valley with a modified manifold , my guestamate is it will end up in the area of an aprox high 13's to low 14's to 1 compression ratio
also can any one shed a light on what I can expect in the way of bore thickness eg were they made to be able to be bored 30 or 60 or what ever thanks
oh and im in australia and the plan is to put it in this australian fairlane
that im currently doing rust work on
Just in case someone comes on and quotes this book to say that it is an M, I know not everything in that book is correct. I have a 400 that has a D7TE-A2B block. So, I'll hope with you that it is a 400.
As for bore thickness, it is common to go .040" over and I'm running an M that is bored .060" over. I don't recommend the latter, but the engine runs well and that's what it took to clean up the bore.
hey mate. down in Newcastle and rebuilt a 400 in my 72 Galaxie using kit from Tim. It was already a 400 so no need for crank. Few of them floating around but would depend on what a wrecker wanted for the block.
Spare rebuilder cranks aren't as available as in the US.
Tim's 434 stoker kit would be my pick if I was going to go to the trouble of importing the whole rotating assembly. Freight to here wont be pretty though in such a heavy item.
Manifolds aren't as common as a 351C but if you wanted to take the grinder and a TIG to an Edelbrock performer as they are relatively available I wouldn't be offended. Otherwise you could use a supercharger manifold for a 351C and use spacers but that is an added cost also.
well haven't looked at the crank but went with the gamble any way motor turns over easy enough but firm has every thing that's in the pic fitted to it and the auto is a c6 and suited for a 4x4 with the tf spacer but no tf case, but at 500 for the pair thought it was a safe enough gamble and grabbed it , its currently sitting in a mates trailer in my back yard
thanks for the info crsmiffy the whipple kit was off a modular 5.4 3valve that I had got cheap and built for this project to only find out I had to notch the shock towers so im going to use the valley bell area from that inlet to weld to the bottom of a split procomp twin 4bbl carb manifold which I also have and weld the charger mounting plate to top (well that's the planned idea) and I have a tig mig arc and oxy im my private work shop with some other toys , I mean tools
and my home mad cam sensor pick up cross hybrid form a cleveland dizzy cut down and a mustang v6 can sensor pick up
BuzzLOL ill check out the sticker or what ive seen left of it thanks
the planned rebuild using a pair of v4 oc heads @ 76cc and pistons @ 32cc to put me in the 8 to 1 comp ratio before adding the charger at 12 psi hopping put my end estimate at aprox 13's to low 14's to 1 after charger fitment
Yes my 400 was standard in the Galaxie so maybe a junkyard? If going new my car was "new" in Australia so there will be a part number somewhere but can pretty much guarantee it wont be as cheap as the ones online ex US. I cheaped out and left my old ones in. They were still ok.
You are doing something that I would like to have done so I will look forward to your progress.
X2 on the comp, seems high. 4 bolt mains might be in order anyway.
If in doubt about the whipple there will be an efficiency chart for it somewhere but I bet that 5.4 will rev a lot higher than a 400. They take a lot of work to get up over 6000 rpm.
Best thing you could do to the pro-comp manifold is chop it up and repurpose it.
hey Brad no mate im not competing with digger they arnt road licenced
I will keep trying to post up dates crsmiffy and have been looking at Tim Meyers 4 bolt main kit that ill get with other parts im getting from him , have the motor on the engine crane atm and hope to have the sump of soon (gotta get of my lazy ****) and see what crank is in it then back on and see if I can get it to run as is n work out where I go from there
the charger kit was for a 5.4 3v f150 but the charger it self is suited to many applications and other kits , the specs on the charger unit I have are
•Displacement: 2.3 Liter/rev •Max Continous RPM: 18,000
•Max Peak RPM: 18,000 •Max CFM: 1430
•Max M^3/HR: 2430 •Max PSI: 30
•Peak VE: 99 •Peak AE: 80
which are , for a street motor , on par with a weiand 6-71 but under bonnet
there an multiple drive (crank) and driven (blower) pullies available for my set up to go from 12 to 30 psi (or change the spinning speed of charger) bigger blowers are less sensitive to boost pressure and even supply low or no boost at low rpm
The amount of air that each jump represents can be made up by the smaller blower by increasing it's speed. So if you wanted increase boost increase the speed of the blower So why not just spin a smaller blower faster to act bigger? The faster you spin the blower the higher the intake charge the intake charge will be a lot hotter in the smaller blower. So why not just get the biggest blower you can get and spin it slow? efficiency goes down at the lower speeds. A big 14-71 spinning really slow at low low rpm makes almost no boost even if asked to while a little 6-71 spinning faster or overdrive at these low low speeds can produce alot of boost.
well not happy just popped the sump n crank is a 1ka well that's a 351m , Tim I now going to be wanting a crank to accompany any parts I get well that's now going to be it for at least a week on the motor then strip n get it up to my machinist to see how much work will be needed before I order parts
from memory the difference between the 351m and the 400 is crank and pistons but connecting rods are the same and at a good strength
Yes, the only diff is the crank and pistons. The rods are strong, but I took the parting lines off of mine and had them shot peened by an outfit that shot peens aircraft parts. They said that the rods are now one of the stronger parts in the engine. Not bad insurance for $100.