Pretty straight forward in the title.

 

somethere in the 250 range..

 

Depends on the year model and auto vs manual, but around 235HP is the rating that is on the engine.

 

If you drive a diesel you shouldn't care as much about Hp as torque.... That's around 525 iirc

 

Well im looking a dp tuner adding 336 hp. Which also adds torque.

 

Adding 336 HP with just a tuner ain't going to happen, unless you mean ending up at 336. That could be doable with a couple of other additions.

 

Total exhaust and intake

 

250hp/505 lbft torque = auto transmission

275hp/525 lbft torque = manual transmission

Power Stroke Diesel Timeline

 

I think you would be lucky to see something like 210 HP at the wheels stock.

Are you doing the simple math of Stock = 250 then DPs 80DD tune must be 330HP then?

I believe more goes into it than that. IIRC it would take more than just intake, exhaust and a stock DP tune to get to 330 HP at the rear wheels.......heck I think 325-350hp is the sweet spot for ACs vs. the stock sticks, unless you like high EGTs.....

BTW, you slapping gauges on that rig?

 

If you put a dip chip on it...

Just sayin...

You will be locked into buying tunes from dp.

Putting a chip on it should be last on the list for performance modifications.

Gauges. Gauges. Gauges!
Air in and out.
Fuel system updating.
Turbo compressor wheel at least.

You really should make sure your engine is healthy enough #1 and get it to 100% healthy in the stock configuration before trying to add power.

Throwing a chip on it and stomping the go pedal is a great way to end up looking for a replacement engine sooner than you would like.

 

I agree with Chris. The best route to take is make every thing in the rig tight and leak free. Then put gauges on the rig. Then after you get to know your rig a little after the gauges, then and only then proceed to chipping.

Good luck.

 

These are the dyno runs from my truck about 2 months ago, the top two are with dp's 120hp tune and the bottom two are the "stock" tune

 

The '02-'03's were rated 250/550 stock at the flywheel. You need air in, air out like Chris said. You need gauges to monitor for safety of the engine and tranny, and good tuning. Stock sticks and turbo, you won't see 350hp at the wheels.

 

This is slightly off topic, but does anyone know what the "7.3 calibration" means in the 2001 notes from this link? It doesn't say anything about hardware changes, so does that mean it's something in the computer?

 

Torque accomplishes nothing without at the very least a time reference.

Horsepower is the only thing that matters when trying to get something done.


A stock-ish 99-03 7.3L will put down right about 200 RWHP.