Yes for sure on Russia, if it's still called that now days.
We got nothing out of the pump on the frame by jumping the red and black from a
hot batt with it still hanging from the lines. We have not heard or felt the tank
pump kick on yet either. The connections on the relays where green as you said they may be.
We cleaned them with gun scrubber as it is what I had here. They cleaned up nice
but still no go. So guys I am at a loss here. I know carbs so this injection/electronic ****e is over my head. So what know? It may be a few days before I can get out to gather some parts off the parts trucks. I figure to take a hot
batt and some gas and if one of them starts and runs than pull the pumps and relays and I don't know what else. You tell me please as I am blind here. I hate
to throw parts at a rig that I don't understand the problem. But I have no option
here as I don't understand the system. I am old school and generally figure out
what is wrong and just fix that. But with this there seems to be several things
wrong all at once. I just don't believe that. The damn thing was running, they went to get it and no start. It just cant be that bad. But I have scrapped rangers doing the same thing because I got tired of the cost of throwing parts at them. These are some of my parts trucks I am going to. So there are new relays, pumps and sensors. As well as new inertia switches and like that in them. I thing grab the pumps and relays but what else. And Like the others out in that yard none of them
parts helped them to run. So am I even on the right track here? IDK Dave. This one is just a hobby kinda. But if I can get it to run than I would have a rig I could afford to run around a bit with. It has got to do better than the 9 MPG I get with the Bronk.
It's my bed time so I will check n the morning and hope you or someone comes up with
whatever I am missing here. I really would like to better understand this system
so I can teach my boys. They arnt interested in carbs and I dont understand EFI stuff.

 

Poke around here & this may get you started on the fuel injection system.
Ford Fuel Injection » Home

 

Thanks Pawpaw, I will be there a while and bookmark it.
In the diagram posts 85 and 87 must power the pumps.
Do they go directly to the pumps? Or through the computer some way? Can I force
power to the pumps here or just end up smoking something if I try?
Like said before. I have scrapped better trucks than what I an now
working on with this very same problem because I got tired of throwing
parts at them. I am hoping this time and with FTE's help I can get this
one running and finally understand just what is going on. Without throwing new parts at it.

Also the inertia switch shown in this article is like a two wire one and I have a seven wire one with no reset button.
Can I jumper it to power the pumps to see if they are good or not?

 

This isn't a inertia switch pictorial, but a pictorial of a power switching relay, like would be used to switch a heavy load on & off, like a fuel pump, or AC compressor solenoid, ect. As I look at it contacts 85 & 86 are the relay solenoid control the computer would use to turn the relay on & off & contacts 30 & 87 would be the electrical load being switched on & off, like the fuel pump motor, AC compressor clutch solenoid, fog lights, ect.

As has been said, the fuel pump inertia switch will be a two wire item & its usually located in the cabin passenger side foot well area, maybe on the firewall just above the carpet, maybe in the kick panel area. There are reports of their internal contacts going bad & causing mischief. It's ok to jumper the inertia switch, but if your going to jumper the power relay, make sure what contacts you jumper, cause it Does matter if you get it wrong, as you found when a fuse blew.

 

Yes I understand that this is a diagram of the fuel pump relay. On the page I copied this from was a 2 wire inertia switch diagram as well.
My inertia switch is located behind the glove box as all I have found on Rangers are located. The computer or
ECC is located behind the pass side kick panel. My inertia switch has 7 wires to it and no reset.
It comes apart and there is a metal bridge bar in it and what I think is an electro magnet.
The bar goes through the circuit board in a couple of places.
When I tried to jumper it I must have found the ground because it sparked and blew the fuel pump fuse.
I will test this more when my helper shows up after he gets off work today.
This is the 3rd Ranger I have had with this happening. In as much as no power to
either pump. As this seems to me to be a simple common problem I guess I am
looking for a simple common fix.
Can anyone tell me that if say one pump went bad would this cause both pumps to
stop working? I really think I only have one bad component. As said earlier we jumped
the pressure pump on the frame with a remote batt using the red pump wire as
hot and the black as ground. We also tried it just grounding the pump housing.
None of this motored it. Or even sparked or anything. Like an open circuit.
I am overwhelmed with the info link that pawpaw gave. But I am learning from it.

 

Think of the EEC/Computer as a brain/box with a bunch of electronic on/off switches/drivers in it, with a memory. The EEC/Computer uses nerves/sensors, that sense, temperature, like air, coolant, tranny fluid temp, speed, like crankshaft, camshaft, differential, wheel, turbine shaft speed in an auto tranny, pressure, like intake manifold vacuum, or exhaust manifold pressure, ambient air pressure, O2 sensor to measure O2 in the exhaust gas, MAF sensor, to measure how much air the engine is breathing in, these sensors/nerves, send the computer electrical info on what their measuring & the computer compares it to info the factory stored parameters in the computers memory. The computer compares the sensors input to whats stored in memory & decides what to electrically have its actuators do, to keep things under control. Actuators are like hands & fingers that the computer uses to control things, like fuel injectors, tranny shifting, EGR feedback, controlling the engine throttle for cruise control, or idle speed with the IAC, ect. The computer controls these actuators by using its drivers to ground switch the actuators to electrically switch them on or off. Another reason our ground connections are so danged important.

The computer through sensor feedback, uses its actuators to control the running of the engine, to keep the air/fuel ratio as close to 14.7:1 as it can & is Way faster & better at doing that than a carb could ever do. Yah its a little more complicated over all than a carb, but when we begin to get the idea about how it does all this, its really not so bad, especially if something goes wrong, as the computer can tell us what system hurts by setting/storing trouble codes in memory & turning the CEL/SES light on, to let us know something hurts. The trouble code Numbers we extract from the computers memory, are clues we use to trouble shoot problems.

Maybe begin with the Computer section here, Ford Fuel Injection » EEC Computers, as it sorta begins by outlining things like above.

I don't know what to think about what you believe is the inertia switch, never heard of one without a reset button, or wired up like that, unless Both fuel pumps are wired into it & that would make sense????

 

I checked my 96 Explorer and 96 T-bird to see if Ford had changed the inertia switch in any way over the years...........Nope, 2 wires only and a reset switch, keep looking where pawpaw said, it got to be there and with 2 wires and a reset button.

 

What I am calling the inertia switch is behind the glove box as is all I have
seen on Rangers. Thanks again pawpaw. I really need all the info you
guys can give me here. I will pull the kick panel and see what is there
besides the ECC thing. Than try jumping the strange inertia switch
if I can't find it any where else. The kids towed the truck home some 50 miles
on a Dollie with the drive shaft still in. I mainly want it to run long enough
to see if they burned up the A4LD trans. Or can this trans be towed this way?

 

I will try and see if I can get some pics of the 7 wire thing behind the glove box.
But my camera takes big pic's and I am still having trouble posting them.
So this may take me awhile. But everything takes a while for me now days.

 

Trying to post pic's. This is what it looks like overall. It's upside down if installed.
Numbers on bottom:

MOTORCRAFT
E6AB-10D840-A2A
LECTRON PROD
ROCHESTER MICH

Numbers on top : 8BO9 Could also be a zero

Lets see if this will post and I will try and put up a few more. Hope ND Bill
will see this. But someone may understand the numbers.

 

Okay here is some more. Sorry both the camera and I suck at this

The 3 legged bar drops into the middle of the circuit board. There is a round steel
disk that it hits when installed that I didn't yet resize a pic of.

 

This is not the inertia switch.

F2TZ-10D840-A (replaced E6AZ-10D840-A & FOAZ-10D840-A) .. Seat Belt Warning Chime / Marked: E2AB-10D840-AA or E6AB-10D840-AA or A2A or E9AB-10D840-AA

Tricky, now you know why it doesn't have a reset button!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
E1AZ-9341-B .. Fuel Pump Inertia Switch / Marked: E1EA-9341-A1A or A2A or A2B

1983/87 F250/350 & Econoline / 1985/87 F150 & Bronco / 1985/88 Ranger & Bronco II / 1986/87 Aerostar / Misc 1981/89 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The A4LD was the worst A/T foisted on mankind by FoMoCo, even worse than the AOD and that's saying something.

The trans was such a turd that some dealers refused to sell Rangers & Bronco's with it. Only sold them with M/T's

 

DUH HAA HAA. That's almost funny. Thanks Bill, You Da Man.
Guess I'll go pull the kick panel and try and find it like I was told to do.

Than I an just jump it and bypass it right?

 

I checked behind the Pass side kick panel and found the computer but
no Inertia switch. Looked around under the dash and hood as best I could
and no joy. Bill said his literature don't show it for 88 but does for the others.
I have had 84 (carbed), 87, 89, and a 90 and all had the inertia behind the glove box. So I assume this 88 has one, right? But where else to look?
Again can I force the pumps at the relay? Or some where? Anywhere?

 

Pull the carpeting up underneath the heater box where your feet rest on pass. side, this is the ONLY location I have ever seen the inertia/reset switch on a Ranger/B2.