I would check your fuel filter. Make sure it's installed correctly and not plugged up. Usually the factory ones had a spring behind them that when they are plugged, they bypassed by compressing the spring. If your fuel system is dirty, the carb float system will never be able handle the dirt and always flood.

 

I will check the vent if I can identify which it is. There's 3 vacuum type lines and one which runs to the canister which I assume is the vent. The fuel filter is new but I feel like it is the cause of this whole issue, I might put a different style one on it. How would I check fuel pressure on such a low pressure system?

 

Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester

 

Sounds like very high fuel pressure which is overcoming the needle and overfilling the bowl.

Do you have a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge? If so you can install a tee between the pump and the carb and see what the pressure is. The 1981 factory shop manual says the 4.9L is to have from 5 to 7 psi at idle in neutral, and the pump should deliver 1 pint of fuel in 20 seconds.

 

Turning it over will give an accurate reading right? I'm assuming this is how to check on a mechanical pump

 

I think it will, but Ford did spec it at idle with the tranny in neutral so I'm not sure. So I would spin it several times with the plugs out so it'll spin fast. Like you are doing a compression test. Fully charged battery, etc.

 

I will report back after I buy the aforementioned tool and perform the pressure test. Thanks

 

Have you checked the crankcase for oil dilution? (gasoline in the engine oil) Check the fuel pump diaphragm for damage. The "bypass" system is in the pump. I was wrong in my previous post about fuel return lines Need to pay more attention to year make and model before I open my mouth. When the needle and seat is closed the diaphragm in the pump is held off the pump lever....no pump action takes place until the pressure is balanced or lower on the carb side. Might want to look more closely at the pump.

Take care.

 

When I checked the oil level last it definitely smelled strong of gas but wasn't yet overfilled so I was afraid it would damage the rings. The pump has been replaced at some point. I'm leaning toward it too but first gonna check the tank vent and carb vent

 

Gas in the oil could be by flooding the intake and running past the rings. That is really hard on cylinder walls as the oil gets washed off of them. Or, it can be via the pump's diaphragm, as Cliff said. In either case you need to change the oil quickly as oil with gas in it doesn't lube very well.

 

I give you much credit for wanting to test and verify "before" choosing your next path. Keep going and let us know what you find after you test the fuel pressure.

Take care.

 

I'd planned to change it as soon as it runs right. Lol maybe it won't do a whole lot of damage until then I guess we will see

 

This is very true. I think many good engines have been condemned as "worn out" due to cylinder wall wash down. It can make a good engine look bad with just a compression test. Gotta kill the fuel before you take compression measurements. Just for sh*** and giggles take a sample of oil on the dipstick and see if it will catch fire with a cigarette lighter.

 

I'm interested to see how this turns out. I'm having a similar problem with my 78'. It ran great until I popped the carb off and cleaned it. Now it shoots gas everywhere like a volcano and won't run very well, or very long. It must be pressure related, because when I take the top off and turn on the pump (I have an electric one which is adjustable) it doesn't do it. either that, or the float is hitting something and keeping the thing from sealing.

 

How hard is it to convert to electric? Not something I'd wanna do unless its easier to regulate and can still mount under hood