F250 Axle swap HELP
#1
F250 Axle swap HELP
I have a 95 F250 351w 4x4 Reg cab with the split axle or independent front suspension axle style. I found out today that my whole front end is basically shot and would cost a very large pretty penny to fix it. Ive wanted to do a solid front axle swap on my truck for a while but i need some help. On the pumpkin on the front axle it says 50. I'm unsure if that's a Dana 50 or a Spicer 50 ??? My truck has the large front Hubs which ive heard is a sign of it being a Heavy Duty, which my truck was a town plow truck so it would make sense. On top of that what kind of gearing ratio is my front axle now ? And what solid front axle should i put in my truck ??? Any help is appreciated !!! THANKS
#2
I have a 95 F250 351w 4x4 Reg cab with the split axle or independent front suspension axle style. I found out today that my whole front end is basically shot and would cost a very large pretty penny to fix it. Ive wanted to do a solid front axle swap on my truck for a while but i need some help. On the pumpkin on the front axle it says 50. I'm unsure if that's a Dana 50 or a Spicer 50 ??? My truck has the large front Hubs which ive heard is a sign of it being a Heavy Duty, which my truck was a town plow truck so it would make sense. On top of that what kind of gearing ratio is my front axle now ? And what solid front axle should i put in my truck ??? Any help is appreciated !!! THANKS
It's a Dana/Spicer 50 (same outfit)......TTB.......later years went solid..............I'd recommend going with a Dana 60 swap --- legendary hardware
#4
You'd wanna find a donor truck that matches your trucks gear ratio.
Ball joint D60 for simplicity from say 92-97 F350.
Make sure you get everything.
Front drive shaft
pitman arm
all of the steering linkage
U bolt flanges
front leaf springs
lift block between rear springs and axle.
and of course the axle itself.
Install using new u bolts, reusing old u bolts isn't generally a good idea. I wouldn't reuse a set but I don't live where its all sunshine and buttercups 365 days a year under a truck either though!
Ball joint D60 for simplicity from say 92-97 F350.
Make sure you get everything.
Front drive shaft
pitman arm
all of the steering linkage
U bolt flanges
front leaf springs
lift block between rear springs and axle.
and of course the axle itself.
Install using new u bolts, reusing old u bolts isn't generally a good idea. I wouldn't reuse a set but I don't live where its all sunshine and buttercups 365 days a year under a truck either though!
#5
#6
You have a D50TTB which is very unusual for a small block regular cab. IMO it's a quite good setup and I urge you to reconsider sticking with it. They ride and handle better while being almost as strong as a D60. Only real reason for swapping to a D60(you're only real solid axle option) is significant lift and tires over 37".
Swapping to a D60 is not cheap or easy, and not without it's drawbacks. Though easier for you then some as you're already leaf spring.
Only you can tell for sure what your gear ratio is, we would be guessing but chances are very good that you have 3.55s, while almost all D60s are 4.10s.
It will require a lift, ever notice that all 4wd F350s are taller then F250s, this isn't just cause, with a D60 the truck just plan can't be shorter, the axle is too big. So at a minimum a 2" lift.
As such often the best way to do something like this is all at once with a donor truck or package of parts. Front and rear axles(easier to swap rear axle then gears) rear blocks from F350(2" taller), front and rear shocks(longer), front and rear U-bolts and plates from an F350 (longer), track bar and frame bracket from an F350, pitman arm(longer) and tie rods from F350, front driveshaft from F350 with same drivetrain. With so many 4WD F350 parts needed it's often much better to just buy a 4WD F350 as at least a donor and often it's just more cost effective to just fix up that F350 then swap those parts into your F250.
Swapping to a D60 is not cheap or easy, and not without it's drawbacks. Though easier for you then some as you're already leaf spring.
Only you can tell for sure what your gear ratio is, we would be guessing but chances are very good that you have 3.55s, while almost all D60s are 4.10s.
It will require a lift, ever notice that all 4wd F350s are taller then F250s, this isn't just cause, with a D60 the truck just plan can't be shorter, the axle is too big. So at a minimum a 2" lift.
As such often the best way to do something like this is all at once with a donor truck or package of parts. Front and rear axles(easier to swap rear axle then gears) rear blocks from F350(2" taller), front and rear shocks(longer), front and rear U-bolts and plates from an F350 (longer), track bar and frame bracket from an F350, pitman arm(longer) and tie rods from F350, front driveshaft from F350 with same drivetrain. With so many 4WD F350 parts needed it's often much better to just buy a 4WD F350 as at least a donor and often it's just more cost effective to just fix up that F350 then swap those parts into your F250.
#7
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#8
My plan is to put a 3" body lift and a 6" suspension lift on 38's which was why i thought itd be easier to just switch to a solid axle rather than fix my front end. My trucks calling for all new tie rods inner and outer including the alignment sleeves rod ends ECT. which id have to do with a solid axle anyway, all 4 ball joints, both universal joints (Close to $400 just for those) ... What are your guys opinions, with the lift and tires i plan to put onto it and the amount of money itll cost to fix my current front end issues, should I swap to a solid OR nickle dime into fixing my current ?
#9
#11
My plan is to put a 3" body lift and a 6" suspension lift on 38's which was why i thought itd be easier to just switch to a solid axle rather than fix my front end. My trucks calling for all new tie rods inner and outer including the alignment sleeves rod ends ECT. which id have to do with a solid axle anyway, all 4 ball joints, both universal joints (Close to $400 just for those) ... What are your guys opinions, with the lift and tires i plan to put onto it and the amount of money itll cost to fix my current front end issues, should I swap to a solid OR nickle dime into fixing my current ?
Then yeah, better off with a D60, the TTB is a nightmare to lift that tall. But unless you love your current truck, you're still better off just buying an F350.
And yes, as eakermeld said, ditch the body lift, no point and a dangerous pain in the ****. 6" of suspension lift(over F350 height) is plenty to fit 38s. I roll 37s on a stock height F350 with minor front fender trimming.
#12
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#13
See my build thread linked in my signature below. Mine is not a good path to follow at all as I am taking my time on a lot of things, am replacing things that may not have needed it if on a tight budget, and am doing things prior to the swap that most people do the day of the swap. But it might give you an idea of what you are in for. And there are tons of other very good build threads too.
#14
even it you weren't going to lift it and run big tires i would say D60 is the way to go. I think they ride much better. they are no hard to do. just put the effort it to go through it before you put it in. depending on where you are they can be more expensive, but no more ex*****ve than fixing a D50.
#15
BillaVista.com-Dana 60 Front Axle Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
A little light reading for the Dana enthusiast in all of us!
A little light reading for the Dana enthusiast in all of us!
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