Hi,

I have a question about my WDH hitch.

Tow Vehicle 2011 F250
Trailer 2008 Kodiak 30BHSL 6000 pounds loaded

When my wife and I bought the trailer in 2011, we owned a 1999 F150. The trailer dealer installed a Pro Series WDH hitch with 750 pound spring bars. When the spring bars were attached you could see the WDH system in action. Last year when we bought the 2011 F250, I used the WDH system. However, I didn't see any noticeable change in the weight shift. If anything, I found the spring bars and time to install and remove more of a hassle than it was worth.

I spoke with my local trailer shop. The shop foreman took a look for me and checked the measurements. He went back to his books and ran calculations. Then came back with everything is fine and within specification. He said the difference in trucks (which I figured) could be the reason why I am seeing a change in response. He said the dealer we purchased our trailer from gave use the proper WDH with some extra wiggle room. It was done right.

Last weekend, my wife and I finally got the trailer on the road for the first time this season. I ran without with the spring bars and sway control. I put 35 PSI in the airbags before hooking up. The truck and trailer look really good. I didn't get any ride discomfort at all. This was also towing during adverse weather conditions like heavy rain and some wind. The trailer did just fine to the campground and back on Sunday. Parking the trailer at the site and back to storage was a breeze since the bars were not restricting movement.

Now here is my question. Besides the obvious, what is going on here? I did one season last year with bars. This season is starting without. It seems on my old F150 the WDH did alot more which is expected. With the F250 the WDH is more of nuisance (not the best choice of words). I could think of few things.

1. This hitch and trailer runs a 2 inch ball 6000# rated ball. I thought about looking into getting a 2 5/16 inch coupler installed on the trailer.

2. My tongue weight may not be 15% as previous estimated. I have not officially got the exact figure plus that number changes depending on the trip. If I am closer to 600 pounds or 10%, this means I am close to the F250 Hitch's operational weight range.

3. After researching the issue, I found a common theme or rule of thumb. Over 50% of tow capacity you should have a WDH set up. At or under 50%, WDH may not be needed to trailer transport.

4. Added level of safety with another point of attachment with the bars even if they are not really doing much. plus some additional sway control.

Any thoughts, insights, or input into the matter?

 

Check your state laws on towing trailers. That is probably going to come into play here making the WDH mandatory.

Likely the weight and size of the F250 is the change that has allowed you to tow and have the same result.

 

I am not aware of any state laws requiring the use of weight distribution bars, although we all have the unstated, but implicit requirement to keep ourselves and others safe when we tow. Maybe some states do and I am just not aware of them.

The OP brings up an interesting and often controversial issue which is when are weigh distribution bars required? My own thought is the best measure might be how much weight comes off the front axle when the trailer is hitched since shifting weight to the front axle is the primary role of the bars. Scaled weights then might be helpful in making that judgment.

For the record, I have also had this discussion with Reece technical support as I had a truck trailer combination with very little squat that did just fine without the bars. The representative I talked with opined that bars were not necessary in every case. I agree with Scott's preceding comment that the difference in trucks likely accounts for the difference in the towing feel.

I would offer one further thought which is this. I am one who tends to take hard fast percentage rules with considerable care when it comes to safety as there are so darn many factors that enter into the towing equation. The ultimate criteria, regardless of numbers, is can we tow what we are dragging behind out trucks is a genuinely safe manner. And, in the worst possible case scenario, if you had to defend your actions in court, could you do so in a valid manner.

My two cents worth,

Steve

 

I have been thinking about the same things. We had a Tahoe and a smaller trailer. We up-sized our trailer and put us at or over the limits of the Tahoe (oops). I had to really crank the WDH bars to get it back to level. We replaced the Tahoe with an Excursion and have only towed the trailer twice so far. It has air bags and I can get it back to level without the WDH. I have decided that the tow capacity is greatly increased with the WDH and since they are less about getting it level and more about getting weight back on the front that I am going to use them when we go out in a couple weeks. I have towed at and beyond the limits and it was not exactly fun. Since I can now tow under the limits and have an added margin of safety I am going to enjoy that opportunity.

 

Did the old truck have airbags? They can go a long way for making the truck ride level, but you still have to concern yourself with max tongue/tow weight allowable on the hitch without the WDH.

First thing I see wrong, is that 6k ball with a 6k trailer. If we're looking for margins of safety, get a higher rated ball to start. Still not as bad as my neighbor, who found and uses a 6k rated 2 5/16 ball. Can't believe they can sell junk like that.

As far as the bars restricting travel/ turning when getting into campsites, ditch them before backing up. When I used them I always took them off or loosened them before any tight backing.

I went from a 1/2 ton with the wdh always hooked up (this was an open car trailer) to a one ton. The first time I towed the trailer empty with the one ton, the bouncing in the hitch was awful with no bars. The trailer would squat the 1/2 ton but didn't even come close to sagging the one ton, so rather than the springs moving the hitch did and it was obnoxious. I set the hitch up for the one ton and used it everytime the trailer was hooked up loaded or empty. Empty I put just enough tension on it to preload the insert in the receiver to take the banging and bouncing out. Loaded I set it normally.

Personally if you have it set up right I'd continue to use it.

 

Thanks for the replies so far. As for some of the questions asked.

Did the old truck have air bags? No. I was going to do them but never got around to do them.

2 inch 6000 pound ball? Yup from the manufacturer! I learned a ton about trailers since 2011. My experience before was based on equipment trailers and it was pintle hook setups with 2 5/16 inch ball. What made me think about the 2 inch ball is my boss's trailer has 2 5/16 on a 4500 pound model. His is a 2012 vs a 2008. I guess Dutchman had different ideas when they were subbed to build the MY2008 Kodiak line up.

I learned last year popping the bars off before getting the trailer into final camping or storage position. I never thought to pop them off before them. I looked like an idiot at storage with trying to back in with the bars on.

I know i have given food for thought as there there is no set rhyme or reason surrounding this topic of the use of WD hitches. Personally, I would keep the bars on. Mainly due to the capacity of the ball. It makes sense to give another point of contact.

 

Hi,

Last weekend I was out with the crew for a nice long weekend of camping. Since we all do this event every year, I know this is the heaviest I run during the year (Even when going camping for a week) since I have a full tank of water on board plus coolers, fuel for the generators, gear, etc. I had the bars on for additional safety as another point of contact in case of failure. I am thinking about talking with my local trailer dealer and seeing what the cost of upgrading the ball coupler. Yes I know this is not going to change ride quality. Going from a 2 inch 6000# rated to 2 5/16 8 or 10K rating would give more breathing room. The weird thing is my ball coupler is a bolt on model. Most of the other trailers I have looked at it is a weld on! Go figure. What I do know is when I look at the next trailer, whatever it might be, I will be looking at the coupler.

 

Doing a bit of necrothreading here.

Alright. Since the last post more thoughts come and go out of my head. Scary I know!

I found a few things out. The 2 inch ball I have on my hitch is not a 6K rated but 8K rated. I was going to swap out the ball with a higher rating. I probably read the 8 too quickly and thought it was a 6 due to grease on the ball. So I have some spare capacity in the ball which is a good thing.

Last November while at Disney, I thought the trailer felt a bit funny on the way down. I spoke to the WD hitch manufacturer's tech support line, I found out I was about an inch or so low. As for the tilt, the tech on the phone felt since the height was a minor adjustment, it should not effect the tilt too much. I adjusted accordingly since I had my impact gun with me. The trailer rode that much better for the trip back.

Now the reason for my necro threading is the fact my last two tows were kind of bouncy. I have noticed the truck is staying level with 10 PSI in the air bags and no bars installed. It seems the bars are making for a more bouncy ride. I have been setting the chains at the 3rd link from the top. Sometimes I can get to the 4th but it does not change ride quality. Nothing in the trailer has changed. Pretty much the same stuff that was in the trailer before is still there.

Should I reconsider running without the bars and run just sway control? From what I have read, I seem to be on the borderline with the WDH to begin with. When I weighed my trailer in 2013, it was at 5800 pounds. Any other thoughts for the more experienced travel trailer owners around here?

 

I would suggest common sense and the manner in which your rig handles best should prevail.

Steve

 

There is no sense that has anything in common in my head LOL Figured as much. I am thinking about trying one trip without bars and see what happens. If it gets funky, the bars will go on.

 

My thought here, jokingly, is so often we get caught up in what people are supposed to do or what someone says is the way to do something we forget the obvious. That of course is "how does it work".

At times, it is is a short jump to fixing things that aren't broken.

Steve

 

Hi,

Just a quick update. I ran the truck out to Knoebel's and back this past weekend. For the most part, the truck and the trailer felt good at highway speed. Now the pucker factor. While driving out, we managed to find the only road hazard on the trip. The truck nor trailer were damaged or hurt but the pot hole woke my rear up. The trailer sway kicked in. If you never had the newer Fords Trailer Sway Control go to work, it is pretty wild. Before you can react the truck is taking over pretty quickly. The braking systems kicked in slow the truck down while the trailer tracked true. It was over in a couple of seconds. Anyway, it was all good for the ride out.

The way back, they bars went back on. No trouble encountered. However, no road hazards either. After the trip, I gave it some thought. Run the bars. Sway Control is an option. The bars are most likely putting some form of weight to the front but not like it was was on the 150. However, the bars probably help with better control of the trailer. Hence why they should be installed. I didn't notice any more or less bounce in the ride. So my best guess the it was the roads I was on the last couple of trips.

 

good report. Sometimes some trial and error helps.


Glad the sway control helped like that.

 

At times it is easy to end up trying to fix the trailer, when it is the road.

Steve

 

Interesting report on the sway control that the truck has. Glad to hear it worked so well.