Matt,
I have a mild-built 460 (466ci, mild cam, intake, forged pistons, 750cfm carb), that is being retrofitted into an '88 F350 4x4.

I will be using these L&L swap headers, and I will probably have to build an H-pipe around the transmission (ZF5). Right now, I have a pair of Goerlich single-chamber race mufflers that I bought years ago when the motor was in my '78 F150. I LOVE the sound of them. How does your 10-series compare (if you have any experience with the Goerlich's)? If they are more aggressive, I might try them.

The truck will have it's side-mount gas tank removed, so I will have plenty of room. I am thinking about one exit on each side just before the rear tires like I had on the '78. Or maybe just a couple turn-downs under the bed...

Do you have any opinions or useful tips? I think I used 3" exhaust the first time around (I would have to measure to refresh my memory), but I am thinking 2.5" duals with the H-pipe would be best this time around.

Here's some pics of my old setup. Not much you can do with fender-exits...

 

I would say, go with the H-pipe and run a 2.50" dual exhaust with a pair of Flowmaster Super 10's. If you want it to sound aggressive, there is no substitute! Good luck! Let me know if there is anything else that I can help you out with.

 

Matt,


I got a 95 F150 Reg cab short bed with the 5.8. Has stock exhaust on it, its too quiet. I don't want it annoyingly loud, but I want people to know I am there when I step on it. Does Flowmaster have a cat-back kit? I want some nice looking tips for it too.

 

Check your inbox. PM sent.

 

I'm slowly building an 86 F250 Super Cab 4x4 with a 396ci stroker motor based on a roller cam 351w. I've got a Performer intake, some 190cc heads and I'm thinking an F303 cam. I'm mainly focused on low end torque and figure the combination will produce 325hp give or take with well over 400lb/ft of torque. My current plan is a set of shorty headers with 2.5" downpipes, into a 2.5" -> 3" scavanger y pipe and 3" pipe out the back. I know 3" is a little small, but I'm thinking it'll be ok because of my expectation to be in the lower RPMS.

Now, onto mufflers... I plan on running an electric dump plumed into a separate exhaust system with probably a glasspack or similar exiting under the bed for when I want loud. Other than that I want a fairly quiet truck. I had a super 40 on my Ram 1500 which I liked the sound, but as I got older I felt funny leaving my friends houses late at night making so much racket. Inside I want to be real quiet, outside can have a nice throaty sound but shouldn't be too loud. That's what the cutout is for.

I also do not want it to sound like a 5.0 mustang. I like my 5.0 mustang to sound like a 5.0 mustang, not my truck if you know what I mean. The truck is a long bed, super cab, so I don't assume muffler length is any issue. It would be going in the stock location more or less.

Edit: Would kit 17211 fit my needs? I see it says 94-97, but since my Y pipe is going to be custom that shouldn't matter that my truck is an 86. I don't think ford changed that much under the trucks to affect exhaust clearance. What size pipe is used in that kit?

 

Your stroker will be choked for air with a performer intake. I would run a RPM (not an air gap). Don't waste money on shorty headers. Dyno testing consistently shows they are only good for weight savings (lighter than manifolds, plus your wallet will be lighter!). You might also be constantly chasing leaks with cheap headers.

The best thing you can do is use mandrel bent leads. 2-1/4 mandrel bent leads will outflow 2-1/2 muffler shop crimped leads. If you can get 2-1/2 mandrel bent leads, run them to a 2-1/2 x 3-1/2 flowmaster Y. Run a straight piece of 3-1/2 pipe to a flowmaster 70 series muffler. Either a 3-1/2 or 3 tailpipe out the back. Any muffler shop should be able to get a mandrel bent 3-1/2 tail pipe for a diesel application. Ford or Dodge will work.

If you can only get 2-1/4 mandrel bent leads, I would just go 2-1/4 to a single 3.

I already touched on this above, but I think you want a flowmaster series 70. Same flowmaster sound, but lower volume and designed for minimal interior resonance. Your long wheelbase will also help to e it down. You're on your own for the cutout, just excessive comlocation and more stuff to break if you ask me. I would try this setup without it first, I think you'll be happy...

 

So no real benefit with shorties vs stock manifolds? I was going to make my own Y pipe with 2-1/2" mandrel bends; I can probably do 2-1/4" flairs to fit the stock manifolds then go right to 2-1/2". There aren't many long tube headers that fit well on our trucks, so unless I really need them I'd like to avoid them.

As for the cutout, I'm going to put a y cutout in the system, but I'll hold off on the electric cutout and just leave the block off plate on there to start. Then I have options.

Thanks for your help btw.

 

2-1/4 flared to 2-1/2 at the manifold is no problem. Also, port matching your heads and manifolds will help. This is the only thing exhaust manifold gaskets are good for. Make the manifolds match the hole in the gasket, make the ports in the head slightly smaller. This will help prevent reversion. Time cleaning up the insides of the manifolds is well spent.

Have the manifolds skimmed by a machine shop. Ditto for the mating surface of the head. Smear a little grease on the flange and bolt it up metal to metal. Leave the gasket on the bench where it belongs!

 

I'm running 2.5" duals off of long tube headers. I have Delta 50 mufflers just before the rear axle. "H" pipe directly behind tranny. Full tailpipes to the rear bumper. I love the Flowmaster sound but the drone is driving me nuts! How do I get rid of it? I went for a ride in my buddy's truck with nearly identical build except he has Magnaflows. Only difference between our engines is his has cam which has a tad more lift. He got rid of his Flowmasters for the same reason. I'm looking for that deep muscle car sound with no drone in a high flow design. It would be nice to drive a few miles and not have my ears go numb.

 

I quit running duals on stock small block motors a well designed 3 inch exhaust flows great on a motor in the 200 to 250 hp class & it takes lots less pipe to run it.

 

Hi Matt. I have a 1979 F250 4x4. I just rebuilt a 400 , basically stock with a mild Lunati cam. I would like to put on a new dual exhaust using the stock manifolds and no catalytic convertors. Could you recommend a setup that would give me a nice mild sound but relatively quiet in the cab? Thanks

 

Have a 78 F100 with a pretty much stock 300 cid 6 in it. I am adding EFI manifolds, and I guess the Walker Y-pipe (dual 1 7/8s into one 2.5" pipe)since Flowmaster does not have anything per an earlier post. Two questions:
a) For optimum scavenging, do think I would be better off with 2.25 or 2.5" pipe back of the muffler and b) which Flowmaster muffler would you recommend - I am looking for quiet and performance - well, as much as I am going to get from a 127hp engine - not loud noise. So s free-flowing muffler with 2.5" in and 2.25-2.5" (depending on the answer to (a)) out.

 

I have 2 truck that could use some exhaust help.

1998 F150 supercab long bed 4x4. 5.4 engine that just fired it's first spark plug. Daily drive / scout trip truck (read: plying catch up after tolls with a full bed and 4k trailer). Manifold and muffler need to be replaced for inspection.


Was thinking long tubes and flowmaster 70's. I like understated power notes.
Sounds like duals would be a bad idea from previous posts.



1988 F250 reg cab long bed 4x4. 300 straight six, ZF5. Play Truck. I usually run cats only, need to put a muffler on to pass PA inspection. Would like one that I can leave on and still feel like it's not holding the engine back. Would like to refine the sound a little more as well.

 

Some really good information in this. Had to move it back to the top.

 

Here is my custom exhaust, custom Y-Pipe, headers, flow master merge collector (Y-Pipe), etc..:
Oh, yah, also CAT delete.
Headers 3" collector down to 2.5" reducers, to 3" pipe to muffler, just like the stock Y-Pipe, but custom.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tube-size.html

Need advice on keeping single O2 sensor, create a small tube 3-6", with O2 bung, between passenger side and driver side custom Y-Pipe, or mount after the merge collector?
There is no way to mount O2 sensor on passenger side header, too close to trans.