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  #31  
Old 11-01-2014, 03:42 PM
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Matt,
I have a mild-built 460 (466ci, mild cam, intake, forged pistons, 750cfm carb), that is being retrofitted into an '88 F350 4x4.

I will be using these L&L swap headers, and I will probably have to build an H-pipe around the transmission (ZF5). Right now, I have a pair of Goerlich single-chamber race mufflers that I bought years ago when the motor was in my '78 F150. I LOVE the sound of them. How does your 10-series compare (if you have any experience with the Goerlich's)? If they are more aggressive, I might try them.

The truck will have it's side-mount gas tank removed, so I will have plenty of room. I am thinking about one exit on each side just before the rear tires like I had on the '78. Or maybe just a couple turn-downs under the bed...

Do you have any opinions or useful tips? I think I used 3" exhaust the first time around (I would have to measure to refresh my memory), but I am thinking 2.5" duals with the H-pipe would be best this time around.

Here's some pics of my old setup. Not much you can do with fender-exits...


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  #32  
Old 11-03-2014, 05:48 PM
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I would say, go with the H-pipe and run a 2.50" dual exhaust with a pair of Flowmaster Super 10's. If you want it to sound aggressive, there is no substitute! Good luck! Let me know if there is anything else that I can help you out with.
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Last edited by Matt@Flowmaster; 11-04-2014 at 10:33 AM.
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  #33  
Old 12-02-2014, 06:27 PM
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Matt,


I got a 95 F150 Reg cab short bed with the 5.8. Has stock exhaust on it, its too quiet. I don't want it annoyingly loud, but I want people to know I am there when I step on it. Does Flowmaster have a cat-back kit? I want some nice looking tips for it too.
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  #34  
Old 12-03-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneckryder View Post
Matt,


I got a 95 F150 Reg cab short bed with the 5.8. Has stock exhaust on it, its too quiet. I don't want it annoyingly loud, but I want people to know I am there when I step on it. Does Flowmaster have a cat-back kit? I want some nice looking tips for it too.
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  #35  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:05 AM
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cobra2411
I'm slowly building an 86 F250 Super Cab 4x4 with a 396ci stroker motor based on a roller cam 351w. I've got a Performer intake, some 190cc heads and I'm thinking an F303 cam. I'm mainly focused on low end torque and figure the combination will produce 325hp give or take with well over 400lb/ft of torque. My current plan is a set of shorty headers with 2.5" downpipes, into a 2.5" -> 3" scavanger y pipe and 3" pipe out the back. I know 3" is a little small, but I'm thinking it'll be ok because of my expectation to be in the lower RPMS.

Now, onto mufflers... I plan on running an electric dump plumed into a separate exhaust system with probably a glasspack or similar exiting under the bed for when I want loud. Other than that I want a fairly quiet truck. I had a super 40 on my Ram 1500 which I liked the sound, but as I got older I felt funny leaving my friends houses late at night making so much racket. Inside I want to be real quiet, outside can have a nice throaty sound but shouldn't be too loud. That's what the cutout is for.

I also do not want it to sound like a 5.0 mustang. I like my 5.0 mustang to sound like a 5.0 mustang, not my truck if you know what I mean. The truck is a long bed, super cab, so I don't assume muffler length is any issue. It would be going in the stock location more or less.

Edit: Would kit 17211 fit my needs? I see it says 94-97, but since my Y pipe is going to be custom that shouldn't matter that my truck is an 86. I don't think ford changed that much under the trucks to affect exhaust clearance. What size pipe is used in that kit?
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  #36  
Old 12-08-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f100beatertruck View Post
I'm slowly building an 86 F250 Super Cab 4x4 with a 396ci stroker motor based on a roller cam 351w. I've got a Performer intake, some 190cc heads and I'm thinking an F303 cam. I'm mainly focused on low end torque and figure the combination will produce 325hp give or take with well over 400lb/ft of torque. My current plan is a set of shorty headers with 2.5" downpipes, into a 2.5" -> 3" scavanger y pipe and 3" pipe out the back. I know 3" is a little small, but I'm thinking it'll be ok because of my expectation to be in the lower RPMS.
Your stroker will be choked for air with a performer intake. I would run a RPM (not an air gap). Don't waste money on shorty headers. Dyno testing consistently shows they are only good for weight savings (lighter than manifolds, plus your wallet will be lighter!). You might also be constantly chasing leaks with cheap headers.

The best thing you can do is use mandrel bent leads. 2-1/4 mandrel bent leads will outflow 2-1/2 muffler shop crimped leads. If you can get 2-1/2 mandrel bent leads, run them to a 2-1/2 x 3-1/2 flowmaster Y. Run a straight piece of 3-1/2 pipe to a flowmaster 70 series muffler. Either a 3-1/2 or 3 tailpipe out the back. Any muffler shop should be able to get a mandrel bent 3-1/2 tail pipe for a diesel application. Ford or Dodge will work.

If you can only get 2-1/4 mandrel bent leads, I would just go 2-1/4 to a single 3.

Quote:
Originally Posted by f100beatertruck View Post
Now, onto mufflers... I plan on running an electric dump plumed into a separate exhaust system with probably a glasspack or similar exiting under the bed for when I want loud. Other than that I want a fairly quiet truck. I had a super 40 on my Ram 1500 which I liked the sound, but as I got older I felt funny leaving my friends houses late at night making so much racket. Inside I want to be real quiet, outside can have a nice throaty sound but shouldn't be too loud. That's what the cutout is for.
I already touched on this above, but I think you want a flowmaster series 70. Same flowmaster sound, but lower volume and designed for minimal interior resonance. Your long wheelbase will also help to e it down. You're on your own for the cutout, just excessive comlocation and more stuff to break if you ask me. I would try this setup without it first, I think you'll be happy...
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  #37  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:06 PM
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cobra2411
So no real benefit with shorties vs stock manifolds? I was going to make my own Y pipe with 2-1/2" mandrel bends; I can probably do 2-1/4" flairs to fit the stock manifolds then go right to 2-1/2". There aren't many long tube headers that fit well on our trucks, so unless I really need them I'd like to avoid them.

As for the cutout, I'm going to put a y cutout in the system, but I'll hold off on the electric cutout and just leave the block off plate on there to start. Then I have options.

Thanks for your help btw.
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  #38  
Old 12-09-2014, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f100beatertruck View Post
So no real benefit with shorties vs stock manifolds? I was going to make my own Y pipe with 2-1/2" mandrel bends; I can probably do 2-1/4" flairs to fit the stock manifolds then go right to 2-1/2". There aren't many long tube headers that fit well on our trucks, so unless I really need them I'd like to avoid them.

As for the cutout, I'm going to put a y cutout in the system, but I'll hold off on the electric cutout and just leave the block off plate on there to start. Then I have options.

Thanks for your help btw.
2-1/4 flared to 2-1/2 at the manifold is no problem. Also, port matching your heads and manifolds will help. This is the only thing exhaust manifold gaskets are good for. Make the manifolds match the hole in the gasket, make the ports in the head slightly smaller. This will help prevent reversion. Time cleaning up the insides of the manifolds is well spent.

Have the manifolds skimmed by a machine shop. Ditto for the mating surface of the head. Smear a little grease on the flange and bolt it up metal to metal. Leave the gasket on the bench where it belongs!
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:34 AM
 
 
 
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