I was rotating the tires on my sig truck and on the right rear I pulled the drum cover off. I found a LOT of brake dust covering everything and these two parts fell out. What are these to? Is it safe to drive to a shop to be serviced?



I also found this in the bottom of the brake drum

 

Part of the self adjuster, you can see it here.



Part you have in your hand here (cable missing or hanging in place yet.




other end cable in place


Not sure about your last picture, If liquid looks like water rather than grease, you got little water in it taking it off or right afterwards?

Not 100% clear what you're asking about there.

 

Those two parts are for the self adjuster, I drove mine for a few months when those exact two pieces broke on one of my drums.

It still braked fine, but I would avoid pulling heavy loads until it's fixed....Just in case.

 

The second picture looks to me like its greasy (I'm thinking break fluid) and brake dust. I basically just want to know what is going to cost me to fix this and what parts I need to order for it. The piece on the left side of my hand has a jagged edge like its been snapped.

And thank you both very much for the help so far. Definitely has eased my mind. Any help or links to necessary arts are appreciated

 

Might be brake fluid, run your finger through that wet spot then smell your finger, smell like brake fluid?

Hard to say cost wise you didn't show us everything.

Best bet replace shoes replace hardware kit including self adjusters/cables (cables are not included with hardware kit nor self adjuster).

If wheel cylinder is blown or questionable replace it, might be leaking due to shoes/drum both at or beyond wear limit. If so odds will leak with new shoes/drums drums turned are low. Wheel cylinders are cheap just replace it if any doubts.

Have drums measured, if within spec can be turned have them turned.

Any signs of axle grease in there pull the hub replace its seal.

Keep in mind system like that, rear axle with large drum and large shoes, fix it now fix it right and you won't be in there again for a very long time.

 

Turn your drums, Shoes Complete hardware kit with cables springs and adjusters and adjuster plugs.

You DO NOT want to reuse that spring. Hardware kits are cheap. Drum turns are cheap and shoes aren't to bad. I would replace the wheel cylinders and soft lines as well. If your in there gett'er done and be done for along time.

 

When I did a complete brake job on both rear drums on my 97 which included:
drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, self-adjuster kits, spring kit, rotors, 2qrts of brake fluid, and some brake cleaner...

It cost me $275 for the parts, and $100 cash for a local mechanic to do all the work.

 

This is a F350, right? Full-floating rear axle, right? Thus, the need to pull the axle to access the shoes, right?

If so, all the more reason to replace everything in there (including wheel cylinder) and the grease seal.

Roy

 

Yea gotta pull the axle out to replace the hub seal (not necessary to replace the shoes, drum only for shoes) but only takes a minute, pull the 8 bolts at the outer end of the hub then slide the axle out.

Heres a clear view of the brakes, aid in making double sure putting things where they go no hub in the way.



(left side pictured, right side would be mirror opposite)

 

in late 85 ford went to a Sterling 10.25 axle. With this axle you do NOT have to remove the axle to service the brakes

 

I understand pulling axles is no big deal...but, I would rather not, just to get to shoes. I, obviously, have not done the brakes on my F350. I guess all the FF axles I have worked on have been Danas.

Roy

 

X2. No need to remove the axle. Even if you did the hub remains attached to the housing.

 

Tye,

Regarding the hub seal (if it needs to be replaced):

After you get Red Baron's axle out as danr1 has described you'll need to get a hub wrench for your full floating axle (Dana 80), a puller (two or three jaws), and a step plate adaptor (Ford Tool D80L-630-7) to get to the oil seal and outer wheel bearing. Remember that the hub nuts are either RH or LH depending on what side of the vehicle you're working on.....also double check the axle shaft's o-ring seal (while you're in there it's a good idea to replace it as well).....

 

Or maybe I should just start the dually conversion I was planning and hope for better brakes on it!

 

Good luck with that thinking