I have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. i went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. i unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss. read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. i replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on ait. i have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.

 

p.s. i used motorcraft plugs and the aic , ait and ect were bdw from oriellys. coil packs were ara parts off amazon that had alot of good reviews and same internal materials as motorcraft.

 

Welcome to the ford site!


P0113 Ford Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com Sounds like a bad air sensor.

 

Thanks. On my way home today from work coolant started leaking from the heater core. Crazy. Wonder if the two are somehow related or if its just one of life's many coincidences. ?? Anyway i bought an o2 sensor for the pass side upstream just based off of a hunch i guess and many suggestions in other forums based off same type of issues, anyway looked at my reciept and think that oriellys either sold me a bad ect sensor and wonder if thay could also be related to heatercore and dash temp readi.g at zero all day as it was almost 95 out today. Guy wont take jt back because i already installed. Add another 20 to the pit. Also while i had the wheelcover off making sure it was only heatercore and in prep to remove o2 sensor and noticed that that i had the infamous exhaust manifold bolt broken on very back bolt. Curious anyone know if this could be the culprit for my rough idle? Anyways ill post more tomorrow after heatercore reinstall and o2 sensor install.

 

o2 sensor would have nothing to do with run rough..It doesn't come into play until a certain amount of time after the engine has been running. The intake air sensor could make the engine run rich for sure.

 

I replaced the ait yesterday and it didnt fix the rough idle and seems almost like surging. Thats why im thinking its running rich. Im going to test the connectors tomorrow on my ait and the ect since my temp gauge wasnt working today. Do you know if they are seperate sensor or does that relate to what i see on the dash. Seemed like the rpms were going kind of whackky today too on the highway. Is it possible i have a bad ecm? No code today wen i had them check but only been 50 miles or so since i unhooked the battery yest so may not have thrown it yet.

 

Have you cleaned and maf sensor? The maf is the main thing on these trucks that feeds the computer the signal for fuel. It can cause all kinds of trouble.
Do you mean IAT intake air temp sensor in the intake plumbing near the Maf. I thought you had a code for that sensor. High value for that sensor can only mean one thing 5v max on the signal wire which should mean its broke/shorted etc. Always check resistance before you change a sensor compare to new. They don't usually go bad.

 

I have cleaned the maf about 2 weeks before rough running started. Maybe i sprayed too much or it could just be bad? Not sure i bought the truck with 140,000 on it and had a k&n cold air inake system on it. Thinking of going with a non oiled filter type. I have read alot of people dont like the k&n idk though first vehicle i have had with one. Do you know where the pcm is located so i can follow the wires back? In the thread you posted earlier one person suggested rerunning a new wire from aic and or maf to pcm.? Not sure how or if i can find a short in amongst the sea of wiring on these things. Any suggestions?

 

If you had a short or open you would have a hard code. Do you? A code that won't go away? Lol I was gonna ask about K&N.

 

I had the code p0113. Only thing they could find on the oreillys code reader. i am going check for a short or something this after noon. If it all checks out just gona have to take it to a shop if its not a short and im going to recheck all my coils again also. Got my hands full for sure. Yea i knw people dont like the kn on there but it was already on there and runnng like a champ until this started. Thnks for the input.

 

Unplug the connector from the IAT sensor. Short the two pins in the harness connection together and re-run the KOEO self test. If the test now returns a P0112 code, the wiring and PCM are good.

A P0113 code is usually (but not always) from an unplugged connector at the sensor or an open circuit in the wiring. However, neither it nor the MAF will cause your particular engine drivability symptoms, so that indicates you're probably now trying to fix something new that was broken during your first foray under the hood.

You probably should spend time looking for a vacuum leak, notably in the PCV valve plumbing.

 

I have checked the two troublmaking hoses coming off pcv and intake that g to back of manifold. Completely removed them and inspected them. I couldnt find a thing wrong and in fact they look like they were replaced not too long ago. Going home now to check for short or bad connection in sensor wires. Starting to wonder if the pcm is just fried.... ??

 

so i checked the power to the ait and the ect and they have ground but register no power when check the positive side of the connector. what the heck do i do now.? do i rewire to the pcm or what and where is the pcm located on my truck?? please help i changed my ect the other day while changing the ait sensor and the coolant splashed out on my face. wasnt thinking that it was under pressure. good thing it wasnt hot.!!! anyways could this have shorted out the ait and ect connectors??

 

I just purchased a 2004 F350 5.4 that has a bad timing chain. I'm not a vehicle mechanic but in my research of the timing chain getting loose on these triton engines it may show signs like you described before getting loose enough to clatter. But my experience is in electrical and hvac so please be kind my fellow professional ford owners lol

 

i had this same problem on my 01 v10 and it ended up being my 10th coil pack had shaken loose from the plug and was throwing a code as too high of voltage. one I pushed it back on and tightened the screw it was running awesome!