thinking about a rebuild, suggestions?
#1
thinking about a rebuild, suggestions?
I've realized that with my schedule I am going to finish doing the rebuild myself in about 20 years, so I'm looking into having a reman dropped in with the mods I want and having the body done at the same time.
anybody have any experience with Jasper? any recommendations for any other builders?
I want to stud it, redo air intake and exhaust, add a turbo, bypass oil filter, 3g alternator and aux batt with an inverter, onboard air compressor and add a golden fuel systems veggie oil system. I have about 10k budgeted. any other ideas?
anybody have any experience with Jasper? any recommendations for any other builders?
I want to stud it, redo air intake and exhaust, add a turbo, bypass oil filter, 3g alternator and aux batt with an inverter, onboard air compressor and add a golden fuel systems veggie oil system. I have about 10k budgeted. any other ideas?
#3
#4
My dad got a Jasper engine several years ago. It's still running but I remember him complaining about it using oil way earlier than he thought it should.
He didn't drive it much so it didn't have many miles on it but it was out of warranty so he has just been putting oil in it. He never drives it hard at all. He's one of the slow drivers that the other slow drivers pass. You know the kind. The red light changes and you realize the car in front of you doesn't really care if he gets to the speed limit or not.
He didn't drive it much so it didn't have many miles on it but it was out of warranty so he has just been putting oil in it. He never drives it hard at all. He's one of the slow drivers that the other slow drivers pass. You know the kind. The red light changes and you realize the car in front of you doesn't really care if he gets to the speed limit or not.
#5
I don't get where you are getting the 20 year time frame to rebuild it yourself. Pull the engine and tear it down over a weekend. Take the heads, block, and crank to a machinist that Monday and order the parts as soon as you know what oversize parts you need if any. If sleeves are needed make sure your machinist does lipped sleeves. With any luck you will have your parts delivered and machine work done by the following weekend unless your machinist is way backed up. You should have it at least re-assembled if not installed and running by the end of the second weekend. All the other mods you are talking about won't be part of a drop in re-man anyway. You will be pulling the head bolts out of a fresh build to install studs etc., you will also miss your chance to upgrade to a turbo friendly cam, better valve springs etc., Unless you buy a reman from Ford or IH, you will also be the proud owner of a Chinese oil pump that is probably sloppier than your high mileage OEM one, and a junk rebuilt water pump. If you absolutely do not want to do the rebuild yourself, I would at least talk to some local machine shops and see what they charge. The difference might well be worth it to maintain some control over what internal parts get used.
#6
#7
My dad got a Jasper engine several years ago. It's still running but I remember him complaining about it using oil way earlier than he thought it should.
He didn't drive it much so it didn't have many miles on it but it was out of warranty so he has just been putting oil in it. He never drives it hard at all. He's one of the slow drivers that the other slow drivers pass. You know the kind. The red light changes and you realize the car in front of you doesn't really care if he gets to the speed limit or not.
He didn't drive it much so it didn't have many miles on it but it was out of warranty so he has just been putting oil in it. He never drives it hard at all. He's one of the slow drivers that the other slow drivers pass. You know the kind. The red light changes and you realize the car in front of you doesn't really care if he gets to the speed limit or not.
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#8
Yep. It is important to run the engine at high load when you first run it. That way the rings seat well/correctly. High load does not equal high RPM. High load would be having it in a high gear and flooring it repeatedly. Then as you cycle your break in oil changes start raising the RPM.
#9
Yep. It is important to run the engine at high load when you first run it. That way the rings seat well/correctly. High load does not equal high RPM. High load would be having it in a high gear and flooring it repeatedly. Then as you cycle your break in oil changes start raising the RPM.
The first idi I built I took it easy on it for the first 700 miles, and it used oil and everything until I started using it like normal. The one I'm currently rebuilding, is going to get 200 nice miles then I'm going to start pulling it and driving hard.
#10
While you guys are right, you definately do not want to work the engine too hard before they seat, or it will use oil because it will glaze.
The way i go about it, first 15 minutes WOT 1500-redline, then drive the hell out of it but not loaded. After the 500mile break in, you can start loading it. Worst thing you can do to an engine putt it around when its fresh.
The rings have to get hot to seat (thus WOT) but can be overheated very easily until theyre broke in good (thus WOT no load).
The way i go about it, first 15 minutes WOT 1500-redline, then drive the hell out of it but not loaded. After the 500mile break in, you can start loading it. Worst thing you can do to an engine putt it around when its fresh.
The rings have to get hot to seat (thus WOT) but can be overheated very easily until theyre broke in good (thus WOT no load).
#11
This is the guide/theory that I use when I break in an engine.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
While I haven't done this on an IDI, it has worked well on other engines I have built.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
While I haven't done this on an IDI, it has worked well on other engines I have built.
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