I am going to say it again. Wheel spacers(5" worth) is a BAD idea on unit bearings(or any bearing)

 

if i run a spacer it owuld be max 2"
Dually adapters are like 4", the center of the wheel ends upo being somewhere just before the caliper. Mine will be out about an inch further. Not a big deal IMO.

 

update: picked up an 07 F350 3.373 LSD rear end for bout Tree fiddy today.

 

IIRC hummer wheels have a Very POSITIVE offset and require a LARGE spacer to put there where they would need to go

 

Quick Q: how does the front of the 05+ SD driveshaft attach to the Tcase or transmission? Is it a regular yoke or the flange head like on the rear end?

Wondering if it is worth buying the crewcab rear driveshaft for 120? Im running an NP205

 

I don't know if I'd mess with that rear shaft for 120. My thoughts are with the newer axles and divorced transfercase setup anyway your going to be into custom driveshaft territory. So just have your current rear shaft modified to work. That 2007 shaft is nothing more than a parts donor.

Now if you don't have any front shaft I'd try to round one up. In my 89 F350 with NP205 I have a 1983 F250 front drive shaft installed. I don't remember if I needed a special joint or not. I don't have a CV in my front shaft like factory F350's do.

 

Thanks. Would I need a CV joint or just s u joint on the axle, or slip yoke on the transfer case? Acually...im confused as how to do the front shaft entirely now.
The np205 just has a regular U joint yoke on the front output, and with the rear output.

Need some kind of give or slip in the front driveshaft.

I know my current carrier bearing is dying-can i get a replacement off rockauto?
Also i would need the new style flange on the shaft and not the ujoint yoke i currently have.

 

For the front driveshaft, i forgot that stock driveshafts has a slip joint built in to them. This is nice means i dont need another carrier bearing, and because of the length i think i can just run 2 u joints without the CV joint. But if i find a good pric eon a compeltle cv joint DS i will take that.
also I can save myself about 100$ by extending and welding the shaft myself. Doesnt need to be balanced as i wouldbt be in 4wd over 60 kph.

So ill take my 100$ i saved and invest in a 14" chop saw to make the tube a smooth cut

Also, the rear end i showed-i was dumb for not checking at the yard but it was hte worst pinion slop ever. Im sure the pinion gear itself is toast too.
Im swapping for a rear end with 114k miles (this has 140) at the yard tomorrow. jsut gotta pull the calipers off of this one as the other doesnt have any.
Going to buy a 20 ton press tonight for well..anythign i may need to press. Hopefully the new rear end is nice, but if it has even a little bit of play ill rebuild it.


Bad news..i foudn some threads-and my H1 wheels in stock configuration simply wont work.

However-for a few hundred more I can have them custom build by Stazworks.
They are 205 a wheel. 8x170 pattern, 3-3/8 backspacing. Need to double check again but I believe this is what I need to run them with no clearance issues on the 05 SD stuff.
I like his center designes the most-the 1ton Mod. No one has this style available.


They would be first sandblasted, then power coated, and assembled. Trying to gt a package deal with the MTR tires, dont know if he stocks these ones. Lead time is 4-5 weeks which is perfect. So im going to work with John at Stazworks to get these going asap.

 

got an HX35 turbo off a gm 8.1 gasser generator. I think its a little small on the cold side however. trying to find the actual map of this particular turbo.

did get these today for free


picking up an 05 hydrobooster, pump, MC and reservoir this week

 

going to be putting in an overhead switch panel which will control most of the electrical on the truck. Somethign with breakers preferably. might just make one to fit my dimensions.
Building a nice overhead to house most of the switches, radio, compass, some storage yada yada


all firewall connections will be made with push and twist to lock milspec style connectors

Will install a spare one for any other thing si may come up with down the road or i forget/run out of money for.

 

dindt post to this site in a while.

quick cliffs: ditched the military wheel idea

got some 17" black rock wheels
tires will be cooper discoverer s/t Maxx.

Ordered an 05 CCLB frame from texas for 760 delivered to my house thru my yard.
Figured it owuld be easier and more time effective if I make a full roller, bigger stronger stouter frame, and all the front components will just bolt right up to it! I can put the fuel tank in, run all SS brake lines, bascially have it ready to go and drop my body on it, adjust cab and bed mounts as neccessary.

New wheelbase is 172", mine is 168. so i will have to modify my rear box wheel arches. Theyre home made anyway so no big deal.
The frame will also be wired electricaly ready for the hitch, accessory lights, and my lift gate. Should be fun.

Bought some torches for 350 bucks with 3/4 full tanks. score!

 

So I guess you are cutting and shortening the frame

 

no id rather have an ugly bed than mess with the frame. Maybe I can move the rear leafs forward the 4", but like I said, I dont mind messing with my bed, as its **** anyways and my current wheel arches are home made anyway.

 

Where did you get the bulkhead electrical fittings?

How much does the CAT paint cost?

Thanks,

Roy

 

i hav eyet to order the connectors. there are aloooooooot of choices out there, need to make a game plan as to what I need.

Amphenol makes them, mouser electronics sells them.

The cat paint was 43$ for the black, 45 for the grey, and gallon of thinner was 21 i believe.