its 6" too wide to fit on a tow dolley. I dont have spare wheel either.

This is all bolt on stuff, theyre no real caster adjust ability here unless you got offset bushing sin the radius arms. never heard of caster issues in a factory setup in 05+ trucks.
toe is decent-as it all came off a running driving truck. I have no aligned it though.

 

 

 

What are you doing?!?!?!?

 

I think I know what you are doing, but please walk us thru it.

 

sorry, i dont post much on this forum, complete writ up of everythign can be found on oilburners if you feel like reading a novel.

-cliffs: old floor is rusty, patched, riveted, undercoated, and generally wont fit on the new frame due to 4 out of 6 mounts being new and in different locations. soo just decided to go all brand new. Definitly a massive project but heck, it will be all brand new sheetmetal and will be a tough son of a bitch.

Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build - Page 13

my medium grit masonry sand didnt flow worth CRAp thru the siphon feed blaster, going to pick up soem coal slag from TSC tomorrow. If i can sandblast the inside rockers of the cab frame tomorrow then I can probably get the floor frame tacked in as well. If that still wont blast, well ill just grab a few more flap discs and go to town. Its almost reayd just got a few spots to grind down and clean off the rust and undercoating.

 

pays off to take the time to measure 10x cut once and keep everyhtign square in a jig.

 

Are those summit racing wheels?!

Also I think it would be pretty truck if you made your own dash out of sheet metal and make your or instrument cluster with aftermarket (accurate) gauges. If you made it out of sheet metal all you would have to do is use a hole saw and make new gauge holes lol

 

Is it just me or is the front tire too far forward?

 

i dont ge ton this site too often, do all my updates on oil burners.

yes a custom dash would be awesome, out of stainless, but I dont have the capability to weld stainless just yet. Could possibly rivet it, but I would like to get a sheet metal brake so i can do it proper. Just sotkc dash for now, hacked up to accept the SD steering column.

Brad, yes the whoel cab is shifted back just a bit. I didnt expect the cab to sit up so high. so I did this id only have to trim the front part of the fender. Cab ended up sitting higher, so this is the by product. I dont mind it.


some pics. Tonight im finishing welding the hot pipes and smoothign and painting them. My main wleder has been messing up recently so thats why ther eis so much spatter and booger welds. It has since been ground down and i used my smaller back up unit. I need my big wleder going again though to properly weld up my flatbed that i hope to make this sunday.

wow lots of pics in my other thread, ill post the important ones here

 

motor mount adapters. use stock mounts and these spacers line everyhtign up to the 06 crossmemebr


old locaiton of turbo, it sits much closer to the front of engine now




look at them booger welds and spatte.r dont worry all is well now.

 

flatbed all welded up, 6x9'




excursion tank fits nicely

decent vertical up weld


fuel tank holder. The inside is braced with 1x1 angle iron. Was going to do it on the outside but not enough room. Will use the same coating inside and out as i did on the cab.
going to weld a bungon the bottom of it to drain water which im sure will still get up into the holder.


final degreasing and painting of the engine today is whats on the menu.

 

Why put a bung in there at all? Water will get in. I'd think you'd want it out as soon as possible.

Edit to clarify: What I'm meaning is to just leave a couple of drains holes in the bottom.

 

how big of drain hole you thinking? I was thinking like a 3/4" npt fitting. Small drian holes usually get clogged up, and a big one is alos inviting stuff to get in. Or am I overthinkgin everythign and jsut drill two 1/2" holes at the lowest point?

 

Stuff is going to get in there no matter what you do unless you seal it completely with bulkhead fittings for the fluids and a lid with a gasket for the top. So once you accept that, the issue is how to let the stuff out.

If I were building it from scratch I'd make a set mounting brackets for the tank and use strapping to secure the tank to it. Then I'd make a separate skip plate for underneath that was mounted to the bottom of the tank supports with a, I don't know, 1"? gap above it. Unless you're building something for an ultimate truck competition where you plan to be sliding the tank over rocks, it will be plenty strong enough. Then you won't have to worry about stuff getting caught inside the tank container.

Just my $0.02 worth, not that I have practical experience in actually having done it before.