Ok so on my 1992 f150 302 i have true dual exhaust, the pipes never cross once. its not leaking a drop of oil but burning some. over the past few weeks i have noticed that the dummy gauge has been dropping. now the pressure reads at the N instead of the R or M it used to. but it is blowing blueish white smoke only out of the passenger side exhaust pipe along with a little bit of moisture. driver side is just fine. can anyone inform me on what may be going on?

 

What does the coolant look like any signs of oil? same for the oil any signs of coolant?

Sounds like two problems but might just be a cause and effect type deal instead, single issue creating snowball effect.

Check/replace PCV valve but before doing so connect a vac gauge to it a minute see what it tells you about its condition, then get a reading after changing it see if any change.

You wanna see a steady needle value as in how much vac is important too but at least for the moment a steady needle is more important over seeing high vac numbers at idle.

For example with any luck you'll note a fluctuating needle on the vacuum gauge before replacing PCV valve then steady needle after changing it.

Make sure to check those fluids for signs of cross contamination.

 

coolant looks good and the PCV is new as of 3 weeks ago

 

and i dont have a vacuum line on the PCV. just the one the one hose running to the plenum and the valve cover. is is that ~1/2" hose the vacuum line?

 

just dawned on me that all of this started after i seafoamed the engine. and im guessing that the reason for the low pressure is that the pick up screen is clogged because pressure rises when i let off the gas and slow down to a stop.. any ideas on how i can fix this with out dropping the pan?

 

You said it in your 1st post. That's a dummy gauge. It only registers between "Normal" after the sender has 7psi.

Put a real gauge on and monitor your Hot and Cold readings.

Also, the #8 cylinder is prone to detonation due to the routing of the PCV valve. It was later routed to the center of the intake after many V8's had the #8 piston grenade.

I would buy some 10-40 Accel motor oil and use a quart of MMO in place of your normal 6 quarts of motor oil. Run that for many miles and then another oil change with whatever brand you like. I'd stay away from synthetic period. Chances are you may just have some valve guide seals weak from age and use. I've used MMO ever since i had same problem usually replacing 1/2 quart when i do an oil change.

 

Timber why do you say stay away from synthetic oil? Btw from a fellow Missouri resident.

My truck is a low mileage truck but I've always used Mobil 1 in all of my vehicles. I was contemplating on what kind to use on this truck when it needs it thinking I may just use some regular dino oil but the NASCAR lover in me wants to use Mobil 1. Thoughts?

 

Howdy fellow Missouri resident!

I choose to only maximize my wallet. The synthetic has its place, perhaps in Well maintained engines, whether old or new. Unknown/questionable engines or those that have a few leaks here and there, never!

Also, most folks still don't adhere to synthetics abilities. I still hear folks changing their synthetic @3000 miles. Its a waste! Some can go up to 7500 miles, just as long as one does a sample every few oil changes. People still stick to the "Color" of their engine oil. They think that if it's too dirty at 3000 miles on synthetic, its time to change.

Motor oil, its a flaming debate. Between debates on brands, weights, conventional or synthetic, its never ending.

The only reason I emphasized a NO to synthetic in the OP's thread, is that with synthetic has more detergent and smaller molecules, it could turn his relatively small problem into a larger one at a $$$ waste.