I have 1996 F 150 4WD that I need to change the front axle U-joints. I can not find anything year/model specific as to how to remove the front hubs. I see no split rings or lock rings to remove. This is the 3 bolt manual hub by the way. I have a crown nut socket to remove the rotor. I have the tire off, caliper off, manual lock cap off and then I'm stuck. I have to be over looking something but can not see it. What do I need or need to do to proceed with the hub and rotor removal? I appreciate your time and many thanks in advance.

My truck is a 1996 F-150 FWD 5.0L regular cab long bed.

 

There is a snap ring that holds the locking body into the hub.

DO you have auto or manual hubs?

 

[/QUOTE] This is the 3 bolt manual hub by the way. [/QUOTE]

It lools like a manual hub Brad.

 

As Brad said, there's a snap ring of some sort inside the hub holding the outer body of the locking hub in. I've seem this be simply a wire, or a spiral of sheet metal. The wire kind seems to be the hardest to see and the hardest to get out. Whatever it is, it's just inside the hub.

There's also frequently a snap ring on the axle shaft. If it's there it will be pretty obvious. You need a conventional snap ring pliers to get that off.

With those removed the locking hub SHOULD slide out. I've never had any problem (I usually thread one of the bolts that held the manual lock assembly on to give myself something to pull on), but I've heard of people having them stuck in pretty bad.

With the locking hub assembly out you remove the wheel bearing lock and preload nuts. This requires special tools which it sounds like you have. if not, they're available and not that expensive at most auto parts stores.

At that point you can pull the hub / rotor assembly off.

 

***3 bolt manual hub***


I did finally find that lock or "C" ring! It was hidden very well behind all that grease and in the recess in the hub. I had to give it a good clean to find it. I got the locking assembly out, then the next clip and washers. Now I'm having issues with getting the lock nut off. It just won't grip right. Looking in my LMC catalog and it appears the guy at the parts store gave me the wrong socket. It looks like I've got the one for a Bronco! I've got the one with the exposed 4 lugs and not the one with the lugs inside a ring. Any I guess I'm out getting yet another tool. Yippee!!!!! One has love doing this kind of work by yourself without the luxury of a fully equipped garage!

There's no doubt I'll be back with plenty more questions as this project rolls along.

 

Here is a picture of the exposed 4 prong socket and how it engages the nut. (Don't pay attention to the nut and other items as they are not stock.) In my opinion, the socket never feels right. It has to be held perfectly in alignment otherwise any tilt pulls out the exposed prongs from the nut.

Also, this is on a Dana 60 so there may be differences. The first nut you get to, or the lock nut, on a Dana 60 is torqued to 200 ft/lbs. The second one you get to adjusts the bearing preload ad will likely spin off with your fingers.

Please, for those that know the differences between the D44 and D50/60 please point out any misdirections I may have offered.

 

Looks just like my socket other than it's flat between the prongs. I have no impact wrench just my 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar. I get the socket to fit but when I put a lot of pressure on it, it'll just pop right off. I can not get it to stay put.

 

My experience is that a long extension lets your left hand feel and keep everything aligned and seated on the nut as a slight bit of misalignment can cause a prong to slip out. The left hand also resists the lifting of the ratchet or breaker bar as you apply reverse torque to the nut. Having none or a short extension like you would with a standard socket just doesn't work, in my opinion.

Here is a picture of the lock nut from a donor Dana 60 that someone was clearly having a problem keeping the prongs engaged while torquing it tight. You are torquing the other direction.

 

I couldn't get the spanner to stay engage with the lock nut on my '85 F-250. So what I did was bolt a chain to two of the lug studs, looping over the breaker bar. I put a 2x4 between the chain an breaker bar so I could push in on the 2x4 and get a LOT of leverage pushing in on the spanner to keep it engaged in the nut. Working by myself I couldn't lean on the breaker bar well enough to break the lock nut loose, so I put a hydraulic jack under the breaker bar handle. The nut came loose easily that way!

 

It's amazing what people come up with when they work alone I love it.

 

Leo, that wasn't the tool slipping, that was some tool using either a chisel or a screwdriver and hammer.

 

Lmao encho I think you are right on that one.

 

Encho, that could be. And the abuse didn't stop there. The spindle looks like someone used a hard faced hammer to knock it loose and didn't take the nuts off for the first 50 hits or so.

 

Replace those, and get the skirted type tool, the one that has the same prongs and a skirt surrounding the set, it will prevent the tool from slipping out, of this kind: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFg4NTQ=/z/RscAAOxyDgRRAosB/$%28KGrHqV,!iEFD2gDJ8gIBR!osB0gCw~~60_35.JPG

 

I was always able to get the socket in there and get the nut installed and removed without too much problem. I have the socket in post #6 except it's got four prongs for the Dana 44 spindle nuts.

If you think you're having fun now, wait until you get to taking the spindles off. I recommend a slide hammer. There is a special adapter that you may be able to rent to attach the hammer to the spindle. You can do it with a 3-jaw puller but the slide hammer is less frustrating.