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  #1  
Old 07-04-2014, 11:47 PM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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my 300 is missing

Literally......

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What happens when the trans is already out, the motor mounts are loosened, and the exhaust pipe is unbolted?

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I was standing under the truck taking off the exhaust pipe, when that happened. Trust me, it'll make the heart skip a beat......... or 3 (hundred).
__________________
1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2014, 12:31 AM
cstephens cstephens is offline
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@GimpyHSHS https://www.linkedin.com/pub/christopher-stephens/86/759/16 @GimpyHSHS
Happened to me with an 04 (I think) Expedition last week. Had it on the fork lift pulling it out with just one seatbelt tied to the alternator bracket. My boss asked me to cut the exhaust. He picked it up a little bit, and then boom. The seatbelt slid off the fork. Yeah it is meeeega scary.

I may or may not have peed. The world will never know.










That last part was a joke.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2014, 06:47 AM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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I've pulled a 5.4 out of an 03 F150. It's tight fit doing it with a cherry picker and a chain bolted solidly to the engine. I wouldn't even want to attempt it with a seatbelt tied around a bracket.
Forklift makes a great engine hoist. Ours has a hole torched thru one fork, so we can put a trailer ball on it. Chains/cables/straps won't slip off the end that way.......
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2014, 05:25 PM
cstephens cstephens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
I've pulled a 5.4 out of an 03 F150. It's tight fit doing it with a cherry picker and a chain bolted solidly to the engine. I wouldn't even want to attempt it with a seatbelt tied around a bracket.
Forklift makes a great engine hoist. Ours has a hole torched thru one fork, so we can put a trailer ball on it. Chains/cables/straps won't slip off the end that way.......
If ya had told me 2 weeks ago that a seatbelt would hole that engine, Id have laughed in ya face.

The SUV had been wrecked we took out the radiator and pretty much the rest of the front end...not so tight a squeeze then.
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2014, 11:29 AM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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I kinda expected a few more comments/questions about the engine being out.
It still ran good, had good oil pressure, no smoke, and no oil consumption. But, it had a rather ominous sounding rattle in the piston skirt/wrist pin area.

Replacing it with this.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #6  
Old 07-13-2014, 11:45 AM
cstephens cstephens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
I kinda expected a few more comments/questions about the engine being out.
It still ran good, had good oil pressure, no smoke, and no oil consumption. But, it had a rather ominous sounding rattle in the piston skirt/wrist pin area.

Replacing it with this.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Very nice. I remember you saying once that the only engine better thsn the 300 was the Cummins I6.
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstephens View Post
Very nice. I remember you saying once that the only engine better thsn the 300 was the Cummins I6.
Well, to be more accurate, it more along these lines:
I6 trumps V8 for a truck, due to the torque output at lower RPM.
Diesel trumps gasoline (petrol, for the non USA folks) engines.

The 300 is one of the greatest engines ever put in a pickup, in the petrol dept. And, the Cummins is one of the greatest engines ever, period.

I am one of those "wierd" types of people, not only can I deal with gas or diesel, but I even fully understand the quirky rotary engine.....

Gotta give respect to those "mad" Germans, who designed engines that are fully capable of running on "alternative fuel". The diesel was originally designed to run on peanut oil, and the rotary has been capable of running on pure hydrogen (and has been doing so for 5+ years in Japan).
Funny thing, both were designed long before the term "alternative fuel" came along.........
__________________
1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:48 PM
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OldMetal OldMetal is offline
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Hi Rougue, I'm very intrigued by your engine swap although I dont plan on doing away with my gas engine but I too have worked on diesels. What are your plans to the front suspension to hold the extra weight and for the tranny and rear end? Are you in the USA? There was a guy from Germany who kept his truck here (southern California) for a while to replace the engine, it was some old WWII truck and he had traveled to many different countries in it. I have read lots about the old engines, one was fuel injected and spark fired, they ran it one time on 40 wt oil.
Keep us posted on your work and your plans
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2014, 08:07 AM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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Yes, I am in the USA.

Front suspension is easy, just add stiffer springs, already done. I have a truck that uses king pins, rather than ball joints, so the rest of the suspension is capable of handling the ~300 LBS additional weight of the engine/trans. Many people have added that much, or more, weight in the form of front bumper/winch, which sits on the end of the frame. My additional weight will mostly be sitting right over the crossmember, resulting in less leverage on the frame.

Trans is a 5 speed manual, from a 2wd 97 dodge truck. Rear axle is the old ford 9", which is more than capable of handling the stock output of this engine, 160HP/400TQ.


I am familiar with the WWII era multi-fuel diesel engines. Back in the early 70's, my father built a wrecker from an old army truck, which had a continental multi fuel engine. Could run on almost any liquid that could burn, but ran best on diesel fuel.
__________________
1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2014, 06:30 PM
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You seem to have done your homework! I'm a retired mechanic and have worked on everything from Toyota's to John Deere tractors and I agree with you on the Cummings diesel being the best out there.
I have a 77 F150 4X4 that I'm rebuilding and use as my hobby truck, as in going camping and fishing in.
Best of luck on your modification. I will be watching for updates on it.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2014, 09:49 PM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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I work in an auto/truck repair shop, and spend many hours working all of the big 3 diesel trucks. Currently have a 6.0 PSD apart, but should have it ready to fire up pretty early tomorrow.
Having worked on all of the offerings, the Cummins has proved to be the most dependable and cheapest to keep up, especially the older mechanical injection versions.

My plan is rather simple, yet elegant in it's own way. I will be using as many factory dodge or ford parts as possible, so replacements are easier to locate down the road. I'll just have to keep a list of what parts came what year/make, so I can walk into almost any parts house to get what is needed........
The driveshaft is the area that may pose a minor glitch in that plan. I'm not sure if a 9" pinion yoke is available that uses the same size u-joint that the NV4500 slip yoke uses.
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:18 PM
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I'm sure you can get a drive shaft made with the yoke you need. In fact a more heavy duty drive shaft should be in order.
What year Ford truck are you working on and what do plan on doing with it? I've seen some pretty slick homemade trucks out there
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2014, 12:06 AM
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Rogue_Wulff Rogue_Wulff is offline
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1980 F150 2WD reg cab long bed.
What I plan to do with it, drive it like I have for the last ~16.5 years. Most often, just plain transportation, with occasional light hauling or towing, generally in the 3500 LB trailer weight range.
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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  #14  
Old 07-18-2014, 10:52 PM
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When I have my 77 up to my standards i plan on using it to travel around camping out and fishing, up to the Sierras, Arizona, Utah and Coloardo.....and if I can swing it up to Alaska. Still have a bit of work to do on it, some mechanical and some body work. I'll need to do some short trips to figure out just how I need to set up my little camper though
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2014, 07:58 AM
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Quick update on this project.
It's been kinda on hold while I gathered up a few more needed items, like the manual trans pedal set and steering column, along with other stuff.
Last weekend, I took the air intake tube that runs from the turbo to the intake of the engine, and the valve covers, to a friend's for cleaning and powdercoating. Turned out quite nice.

This weekend, I have been working on converting the cab to manual trans, with hydraulic clutch. Got the old pedal assembly out, and the column. Fitted the firewall reinforcement plate that is usually only needed for repairing a damaged firewall, but I want to make sure the sheetmetal never has a chance to flex and crack around the clutch master cyl.
Got the holes for the clutch master drilled and test fitted a master.
I stopped there yesterday, after only a couple hours. I got a later start than I wanted to.
I hope to get the carpet flopped over today, so I can cut out the top of the trans tunnel for the bolt in cover that goes over a manual trans.

Carpet in the truck is not factory, in fact, it's not even automotive carpet. I may just remove it, and replace it with new later. The rubber floor mat is still there, under the carpet, and likely hasn't seen the light of day in over 30 years.

A few pics. Not the greatest, but at least I remembered to pause long enough to take them......


Click the image to open in full size.

Powder coated stuff


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Auto and manual pedal assemblies


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Auto column and manual tilt column


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Most of the auto trans stuff removed


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Under hood shot showing the clutch master holes


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Inside view of the new clutch master holes
__________________
1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
1995 Mazda B2300 (undercover Ford)
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Old 09-21-2014, 07:58 AM
 
 
 
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