i have a 86 f250 and im putting a new motor and trans in shortly. im itching to get a lift now.
should i get a 80's (85.5+ bullnose) or should i get a newer one to steal axles from?

how hard is the axle swap? ive seen a few people say its pretty easy, but you need to get new bushings through out.

im thinking of putting my ttb into the f350 and abusing it( since i dont want a good truck, aka rotted/busted body/etc)

my only issue, is finding one! they are way harder to find then i ever imagined.

i have found a cclb with a 460 and c6 that "needs work" and is pretty beat up 89 ish? 2k 0b0
and a 86 service bed dualy with a rebuilt diesel 80k ago. that guy might be fun to have after wards, throw a flattie on it and keep her with the ttb? 3k obo

i want the lift because i want my old tires back (36 hmmv) and i want a small lift/ sas from a donor is cheapest
plus my open rear sucks in the wet sand on the beach. hence the front and back swap.

are brake pads and drum rebuilds the same between ttb and solid? and a 10.25/dana 60?

 

Service bed dually?
Wouldn't that be a C&C?
If so, the rear spring perches will be too close together for your pickup frame

Dual calipers are all the same, rear shoes could be different widths.
(12 x 3 or 2 1/2")
10.25" full floaters are much easier to deal with, as the drums slide right off.

350's just have higher lift blocks in the rear, Plus springs, depending on GVW...
But their solid front axle is much easier to lift without all the alignment issues involved with the TTB front end.

Personally, if you are swapping engines, transmission and both axles I think it would be easier to just swap your body onto a solid 350 chassis.
You could then take the time to clean up the frame, do the lift, whatever.
The VIN comes with your cab, so there should be no title issues.

 

i think its a shortbed,but havent gotten around to a reply yet. so im not sure.

i know of the different widths on the brake shoes. they are 20$ on rock auto so not worried about that lol.

yes my dana 61 is pretty stout but cant really change gears and its open. most 10.25 are atleast limited.

as for lift, the arched springs and sas would give me the lift i want, and then blocks/ shackle flip in the rear would give me the lift in the back along with a better then heavy duty f150 gvw
i also want the solid axles/ shackle flip so i can get some better off road ability, this is going to be a toy hauler that can handle itself. it wont have more then 6" of lift. hopefully about 4" plus the lift i get from 36" tires

i built another motor and its the same as the stock one in my truck, i love my truck, but i want better axles. this is a slow restomod.

if im lucky, i can swap axles while i have the motor and tranny out...man that would make life easy, dont think funds are available for that though.

my truck was a show truck for awhile and it showed it. but the motor got weak and i need a new tranny so i decided zf5 and build my motor.

a front dana 60 goes for 1k plus around here and have decades of sitting in the weeds on them. hence the donor truck idea.

 

My 10.25 was open.
The clutches wear out too, so expect at least that.

Don't just think they are limited slip, look at the axle tag for an 'L' where the '.' would be in the ratio.
i.e. 4L10 XXX instead of 4.10 XXX

The service body definitely looks C&C.
There are no flares over the wheels like a pickup.
Maybe the body is that much wider than the cab.

 

its a t19, has 180k, and was his gpas truck.

hes sending me a few pictures with the vin, door jam, and axles, so we will see shortly.

but i thought c&c had a longer wheelbase?

 

I'm sure DieselBrad could tell you better, but I thought the shorter C&C were not much different than the standard 133".

If I were you I would try to find a later truck with the ZF5 that you want already thrown in.
One stop shopping has its advantages.

 

i have a small block motor. i have never seen a small block in a solid axle truck. (300 sixer)

how are the springs different?
couldnt i just build a leaf pack out of the two? like use mine and those?

 

351's were definitely available in F350's (though I don't know why you'd want one)
You just want the gearbox, right?
Or do you need the pedals, MC and column too?

What are you asking about the springs?
The width of the spring perches on the rear axle doesn't work (C&C-pickup) is what I meant

 

so they are thicker then the shackles id have on my truck? is that what your saying?

its a c&c
axle code is 65 which is a 10.25 4.10 open with gvw of 8200
wb is 137
t19
f384
body is dd8?
gvwr is 11k lol

body is nice but i really liked my 354...even with the 36 tires it had plenty of power and the rebuilt motor should give me better gas mileage then before( ten with bad feedback carb)
will the 4.10 be okay with a zf5 on a 70 mpg highway with a 300 six?

 

would that have the bw or a np 208 in it?

 

The narrower frame means that there is nowhere to bolt the springs to if that axle is put under a pickup frame.
You [could] move the perches.

I am not sure but I also think the springs on a C&C are only 2 1/2" wide as well.

11k? You are in for a bumpy ride.

 

4.10's are okay on the highway with my ZF and stock tires.
I would think they would be okay with your 36's and a 300.

Why do you ask about a TC?
C&C didn't come in 4wd that I know.

 

this is 4x4 thats why i ask. it is indeed a c&c tag says incomplete vehicle. and is f384 which is 350/8k/4x4 if im not mistaken.
also has the solid axle up front, im pretty sure.

i used grimjeeper's gear calculator and came to the conclusion that the 4.10 with 36" would be the same as my 3.55 with 33"
however the 36" with the 3.55 has me just above idle at 880 rpm(650) going 35mph. (road to work) EDIT

i didn't know the frame was narrower
so pretty much its not worth getting because of the hassle needed to put the axles under it? that sucks i didnt realize how much the 36" changed my ratio...that means i probably had like 3.08 when i had them before and could roast them lol

 

Maybe it was an F350 with bed delete?
I REALLY don't think C&C came in 4x4.

The frame width will tell you.
34 or 38"?

 

side note, how do you like the pmgr starter? im gonna grab one so i can use my headers, plus its 50$ instead of 90$ for the same warranty