How do you like your truck?
#1
07-02-2014, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Henderson, Ia
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How do you like your truck?
I currently reside a couple forums down in the 7.3's but am looking at buying a 350 dually with a 6.4. Just wondering how you all like your trucks by now, anything major to look at when looking these over? . . . Etc. . . .etc.
We drove an 08 yesterday that was loaded, had about 97k on it. . . .seemed to run out very nicely.
Thank you. . . Kevin
We drove an 08 yesterday that was loaded, had about 97k on it. . . .seemed to run out very nicely.
Thank you. . . Kevin
#2
07-02-2014, 09:08 AM
I enjoy the heck out of mine, my son liked it so much he bought one, only his is a v10.
Lots of stuff to look for, first try to get an oasis report from the dealer on it, see what kind of dealer work has been done. Second pay close attention to the tail pipes, they should be clean with a grey tinge. If you get a service record on it hopefully it will have fuel filter and oil changes on it, that is by far one of the most important items, water separator draining is also important.
Lots of stuff to look for, first try to get an oasis report from the dealer on it, see what kind of dealer work has been done. Second pay close attention to the tail pipes, they should be clean with a grey tinge. If you get a service record on it hopefully it will have fuel filter and oil changes on it, that is by far one of the most important items, water separator draining is also important.
#3
07-02-2014, 12:12 PM
'09 F350 6.4 DRW, CC, LB, KR - Still love it, recently extended the extended warranty another 3yr/48k, presumably by that point I'll be ready for a new one.
The key thing on the 6.4 or any of the new diesels is maintenance. All of the emissions controlled diesels require a lot more attention to detail than the old generations of diesels. They also do not do well in applications with long idle times and short trips. With proper maintenance and application they do just fine.
My standard used 6.4 advice:
The 6.4 does not typically "self destruct", in many cases it is aided in destructing by operator who do not understand the requirements of the new emissions controlled diesels and use them for the wrong type of service, neglect maintenance, etc. Properly operated and maintained the 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels do just fine.
Now if you are looking at a used one, you have to be concerned about it's useage and maintenance prior to your purchase. Unlike pre-emissions diesels the post-emissions diesels can go bad very quickly if they are neglected or are used for all short trips.
The problem with assessing a used post-emissions diesel is that much of what you want to inspect is not readily visible. On the 6.4 you would ideally want to inspect the following:
- Lower HFCM fuel filter and housing for signs of gunk buildup, and to ensure the filters have been changed.
- Upper fuel filter, looking in the bottom of the housing for signs of rust spots or metal flakes both of which can mean expensive fuel system repairs.
- The water pump back housing for signs of cavitation damage.
- Coolant nitrite test to see if the coolant has been maintained properly.
- Used oil analysis on a sample with ~5k miles on it.
- Check for signs of leaks at the radiator hose connections and the radiator itself.
Since a used vehicle at a dealer has probably recieved a basic service with new oil and filters, some of the information you want will not be available at all.
Clearly the water pump housing can not be inspected in any reasonable fashion. The lower HFCM filter and housing can't be inspected without draining a quart plus of fuel and making a mess so it's not easily inspected.
The upper fuel filter can be inspected fairly easily with a flashlight, wrench and a container to rest the filter in when removed. This is one inspection you should absolutely do since a high pressure fuel pump and injectors is a good $8k repair.
The coolant nitrite test is another quick and easy test you can do, clip a test strip on the end of a long hemostat and just dunk it in the coolant degas tank, wait the 45 seconds and compare the color chart. Most dealers probably won't change the coolant on a used truck so it your nitrite test shows under 300ppm nitrite, reject the truck for neglected maintenance.
My standard maintenance recommendations for the 6.4:
If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously (any brand), be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.
Key 6.4 maintenance items:
* Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.
* Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.
* Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 5,000 miles at the same time you do the oil change for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the entire coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.
* Cooling system flush with VC-9 and refill with Ford Gold coolant every 60,000 miles, sooner if you have neglected testing and the nitrite is under 300ppm.
* Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.
* Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Diesel-Kleen.
* The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.
* The latest PCM flash (11B23) does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place, it does however add much improved engine monitoring for developing issues. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.
* Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown. If you are interrupting the regens you will see it in your Blackstone report, otherwise you should see very little fuel dilution, <1%.
You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty. The coolant nitrite testing that many people overlook *is* in the owner's manual diesel supplement, so if you neglect it Ford can deny warranty coverage for resulting damage.
Other Super Duty maintenance items:
* Batteries - The batteries in these trucks are not the maintanence free / unmaintainable type, pop the caps to check and top up with distilled water periodically.
* Change transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles.
* Change rear differential fluid every 50,000 miles on DANA axles (F350 DRW and up).
* Change transmission fluid and filter every 60,000 miles on Torqshift transmissions (100k on manual transmissions). If you have the early Torqshift with the external filter the interval is much shorter.
Resources:
Coolant test strips - Buy the 4pk, not the bottle of 50, the strips have expiration dates and you'll only need <10 per year. Most dealer parts counters should have the test strips, NAPA has them, or order direct from Acustrip.
Ford Rotunda 328-2050
Ford Rotunda CTS-3 3-Way HD Antifreeze
The Ford Rotunda 328-2050 (CTS-3) series of test strips provides a fast and simple manner for testing SCA and freeze point in antifreeze coolant. Test your coolant frequently to protect against liner pitting, corrosion and coolant dilution. This three-way test strip measures Glycol, Molybdate and Nitrite. The Specific ranges are as follows:
Nitrite 0 - 3200 ppm
Molybdate 0 - 1000 ppm
Glycol 0 - 60%
Used oil testing - Blackstone Labs, get the pre-paid 6pk of test kits to save a few bucks. You don't need the TBN option:
Order Now
Ford ESP extended warrantys - You can buy them online from real dealers, or use the online price from a real dealer to negotiate a better price from your local dealer. You absolutely want the ESP, while the 6.4 is not problematic as some claim as long as you maintain it properly, nearly any repair is big $ and one good one will cover the ESP cost:
Ford Extended Warranty | Genuine Ford ESP | Discounted Pricing
DPF, oil, coolant temp monitoring - ScangaugeII, you will need to program the X-gauge commands for the 6.4:
ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools
Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Specific : Linear Logic : Home of the ScanGauge
The key thing on the 6.4 or any of the new diesels is maintenance. All of the emissions controlled diesels require a lot more attention to detail than the old generations of diesels. They also do not do well in applications with long idle times and short trips. With proper maintenance and application they do just fine.
My standard used 6.4 advice:
The 6.4 does not typically "self destruct", in many cases it is aided in destructing by operator who do not understand the requirements of the new emissions controlled diesels and use them for the wrong type of service, neglect maintenance, etc. Properly operated and maintained the 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels do just fine.
Now if you are looking at a used one, you have to be concerned about it's useage and maintenance prior to your purchase. Unlike pre-emissions diesels the post-emissions diesels can go bad very quickly if they are neglected or are used for all short trips.
The problem with assessing a used post-emissions diesel is that much of what you want to inspect is not readily visible. On the 6.4 you would ideally want to inspect the following:
- Lower HFCM fuel filter and housing for signs of gunk buildup, and to ensure the filters have been changed.
- Upper fuel filter, looking in the bottom of the housing for signs of rust spots or metal flakes both of which can mean expensive fuel system repairs.
- The water pump back housing for signs of cavitation damage.
- Coolant nitrite test to see if the coolant has been maintained properly.
- Used oil analysis on a sample with ~5k miles on it.
- Check for signs of leaks at the radiator hose connections and the radiator itself.
Since a used vehicle at a dealer has probably recieved a basic service with new oil and filters, some of the information you want will not be available at all.
Clearly the water pump housing can not be inspected in any reasonable fashion. The lower HFCM filter and housing can't be inspected without draining a quart plus of fuel and making a mess so it's not easily inspected.
The upper fuel filter can be inspected fairly easily with a flashlight, wrench and a container to rest the filter in when removed. This is one inspection you should absolutely do since a high pressure fuel pump and injectors is a good $8k repair.
The coolant nitrite test is another quick and easy test you can do, clip a test strip on the end of a long hemostat and just dunk it in the coolant degas tank, wait the 45 seconds and compare the color chart. Most dealers probably won't change the coolant on a used truck so it your nitrite test shows under 300ppm nitrite, reject the truck for neglected maintenance.
My standard maintenance recommendations for the 6.4:
If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously (any brand), be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.
Key 6.4 maintenance items:
* Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.
* Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.
* Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 5,000 miles at the same time you do the oil change for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the entire coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.
* Cooling system flush with VC-9 and refill with Ford Gold coolant every 60,000 miles, sooner if you have neglected testing and the nitrite is under 300ppm.
* Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.
* Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Diesel-Kleen.
* The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.
* The latest PCM flash (11B23) does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place, it does however add much improved engine monitoring for developing issues. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.
* Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown. If you are interrupting the regens you will see it in your Blackstone report, otherwise you should see very little fuel dilution, <1%.
You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty. The coolant nitrite testing that many people overlook *is* in the owner's manual diesel supplement, so if you neglect it Ford can deny warranty coverage for resulting damage.
Other Super Duty maintenance items:
* Batteries - The batteries in these trucks are not the maintanence free / unmaintainable type, pop the caps to check and top up with distilled water periodically.
* Change transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles.
* Change rear differential fluid every 50,000 miles on DANA axles (F350 DRW and up).
* Change transmission fluid and filter every 60,000 miles on Torqshift transmissions (100k on manual transmissions). If you have the early Torqshift with the external filter the interval is much shorter.
Resources:
Coolant test strips - Buy the 4pk, not the bottle of 50, the strips have expiration dates and you'll only need <10 per year. Most dealer parts counters should have the test strips, NAPA has them, or order direct from Acustrip.
Ford Rotunda 328-2050
Ford Rotunda CTS-3 3-Way HD Antifreeze
The Ford Rotunda 328-2050 (CTS-3) series of test strips provides a fast and simple manner for testing SCA and freeze point in antifreeze coolant. Test your coolant frequently to protect against liner pitting, corrosion and coolant dilution. This three-way test strip measures Glycol, Molybdate and Nitrite. The Specific ranges are as follows:
Nitrite 0 - 3200 ppm
Molybdate 0 - 1000 ppm
Glycol 0 - 60%
Used oil testing - Blackstone Labs, get the pre-paid 6pk of test kits to save a few bucks. You don't need the TBN option:
Order Now
Ford ESP extended warrantys - You can buy them online from real dealers, or use the online price from a real dealer to negotiate a better price from your local dealer. You absolutely want the ESP, while the 6.4 is not problematic as some claim as long as you maintain it properly, nearly any repair is big $ and one good one will cover the ESP cost:
Ford Extended Warranty | Genuine Ford ESP | Discounted Pricing
DPF, oil, coolant temp monitoring - ScangaugeII, you will need to program the X-gauge commands for the 6.4:
ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools
Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Specific : Linear Logic : Home of the ScanGauge
#4
07-02-2014, 03:02 PM
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Henderson, Ia
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Maintenance is one thing that worries me some. With my 7.3 there isn't much I can't do on it, but it is needing some attention and $$ spent on it and am wondering if an upgrade may the better route to go.
#5
07-02-2014, 08:54 PM
If maintenance worries you then you should be wary of a 6.4L. Don't get me wrong, So far I love my truck. But late model diesels are more intolerant of maintenance neglect, and sometimes neglect that the operator has no control over (like bad fuel).
If you want a better performing, easier modifiable (tuned), more refined ride then go ahead and get a 6.4 or 6.7 (after due diligence). If you want a super reliable diesel then keep your 7.3 and fix it up.
My opinion of course, and you'll get others that differ.
But the cost of repair on the new trucks can be out of this world. One bad fuel fill that takes out your HPFP could wind up taking $10,000 out of your wallet.
How far would that money go in fixing up your 7.3?
If you want a better performing, easier modifiable (tuned), more refined ride then go ahead and get a 6.4 or 6.7 (after due diligence). If you want a super reliable diesel then keep your 7.3 and fix it up.
My opinion of course, and you'll get others that differ.
But the cost of repair on the new trucks can be out of this world. One bad fuel fill that takes out your HPFP could wind up taking $10,000 out of your wallet.
How far would that money go in fixing up your 7.3?
#6
07-03-2014, 08:37 AM
I'll start with this MY TRUCK IS DELETED....and wp6529 is very well respected on here.... but that post seems like a lot, but it's really not. I bought my truck just a little over a year ago... did my due diligence in reading up on the 6.4 ALMOST GOT SCARED AWAY but I bought the truck had it deleted...and IT'S BEEN ONE OF THE BEST TRUCKS I'VE EVER HAD! I change my oil every 5k and fuel filters every 10k , I drain my water sep once a month... also running diesel kleen... BUT I'm not one of these guys that buy a truck dog the **** out of and skip maintenance ...then come on a forum bad mouthing a 6.4 or ford.. If you take care of ANY TRUCK it will take care of you... the hardest part in buying a used 6.4 is trying to figure out if the truck was abused or not! Just my 2cents worth.. don't think you could go wrong if you get the right truck.
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#7
07-03-2014, 09:16 AM
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
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I bought my personal truck as an early Job 1 back in jun 07 and i truly enjoy the truck.
I have 4-08 f-450's and 2-09 F-450's in my fleet, they have been great truck's the only issue i had with them was oil dilution which we cured.(Don't wanna start a war in the thread so PM me if you would like more info on that and other things that prolong the life of these trucks) All my trucks have aftermarket tuning and Milage is something your not gonna get unless you try hard hard. Maintance is key and there is no tolerance for lack of. I would use the severe schedule at a minimum. We have our own schedule that exceeds fords. We changed oil every 3500 miles or 30 days before we added FS-2500 oil bypass systems, after the bypass systems where added we run our Rotella synthetic 5W-40 oil 25,000 miles before changing it. We are slowly extending the oil services based on oil samples taken every 10,000 miles, ,air filters every month,trans fluid every 11,000 miles and fuel filters every 7,000 miles. Since i addedSome would say thats excessive but our trucks are worked hard in very dusty construction applications.
I have one F-450 truck with 278,000 miles that has had zero engine or trans work but has had three radiators. All my trucks have had the radiators at least once which we have found as weakest point on the this model truck, other then that there solid trucks.
I have 4-08 f-450's and 2-09 F-450's in my fleet, they have been great truck's the only issue i had with them was oil dilution which we cured.(Don't wanna start a war in the thread so PM me if you would like more info on that and other things that prolong the life of these trucks) All my trucks have aftermarket tuning and Milage is something your not gonna get unless you try hard hard. Maintance is key and there is no tolerance for lack of. I would use the severe schedule at a minimum. We have our own schedule that exceeds fords. We changed oil every 3500 miles or 30 days before we added FS-2500 oil bypass systems, after the bypass systems where added we run our Rotella synthetic 5W-40 oil 25,000 miles before changing it. We are slowly extending the oil services based on oil samples taken every 10,000 miles, ,air filters every month,trans fluid every 11,000 miles and fuel filters every 7,000 miles. Since i addedSome would say thats excessive but our trucks are worked hard in very dusty construction applications.
I have one F-450 truck with 278,000 miles that has had zero engine or trans work but has had three radiators. All my trucks have had the radiators at least once which we have found as weakest point on the this model truck, other then that there solid trucks.
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#8
07-03-2014, 09:42 AM
The 7.3 has a good reputation, but it's getting a bit old and OEM parts will become less available and you'll be limited to aftermarket. I expect you can probably keep it in good shape for some time, but also consider the condition of the truck it's in and how much replacement of worn suspension components and the like will also be needed.
Of course another thing to consider is the notable increase in performance that came along with the new technology in the emissions controlled diesels. There is a lot of extra HP and torque to be had even in stock form with the new engines, so depending on your use this is something to consider.
#9
07-05-2014, 03:11 PM
I had a 7.3, and got a 6.4 truck.
I treat the 6.4 truck the same as I did my 7.3 truck, with the major exception being that the 6.4 is tuned and deleted.
I don't worry about fuel filter changes every 2nd oil change, and I fill up wherever I end up, with no preference to any company in particular. I've swapped fuel filters a couple times, and they are a little discolored and thats about it, nothing scary or nothing. I think theres a better chance of having debris drop in the fuel filter housing while changing filters, than anything else.
As for the water in fuel scary stories, I just don't care. Ever common rail diesel engine has the possibility to self destruct from fuel system injector failures, hanging an injector and melting down, not just ford. So either learn to live with that fact, or drive old 7.3's and 6.0's.
The 2008+ trucks are nicer in many ways. I went from f250 to f350, and the new truck is much nicer riding. It is quieter, not just engine noise, but from road noise as well. The newer transmissions are really great. Despite the allisons smooth shifting and massive marketing, the truth is that it really isn't that great, sure it shifts nice, but it is not quite as strong as the ford tranny. The ford tranny is pretty stout. Some guys have wrecked them with big tuners, but it is amazing what they will take, with giant tunes like spartan's +350 tune and +310 tune, which dyno almost 600 rear wheel HP. I am pretty sure that is the most RWHP capable out of any diesel pickup truck ever, with just a tuner, air, and exhaust. If not, it's gotta be close.
The 6.4 engine itself, is possibly the toughest, strongest diesel engine ever put in a pickup, with the worst emissions system ever put in one as well. The EGR and DPF emission system works fine, but only if you were to use the truck almost exclusively on the highway. In town errands and stop and go traffic, and even mixed driving, will eventually cause problems with the DPF getting clogged.
The bottom end on a 6.4 is really stout, really nothing to worry about. Head gaskets go sometimes for some guys, but usually the tune is to blame, remember that these trucks make huge power and boost, so taking that into consideration, they hold together really well.
The compound turbochargers are amazing with tunes, pulls really hard, even at low RPM's. If I had one complaint, it would be actually that the turbochargers can sometimes make too much boost, which I also think has something to do with head gasket issues.
The cooling system on the 6.4's is great, although a few guys had radiator issues with leaking, still present in the 6.7's. Same possibility for cavitation issues as with any other truck.
100% stock, I probably wouldn't buy another one, but if it can be tuned, it's a great truck. Stock, it gets the job done for sure, still a great truck, but the emissions junk is not worth it. I can tune and delete where I live, so it's all good. My next truck might be a 2010 6.4 truck possibly.
The 6.4 starts nicer than the 7.3's, just fires right up instantly, even if it's pretty cold out. I started my 6.4 at times where the 7.3 didn't have a hope of cranking over.
Fuel economy; stock it can be quite low in comparison, tuned, same as any other truck. Of course the f450's and dually trucks with the 4.10 axles will rev higher, and burn more fuel.
So basically, can you tune it and delete the emissions junk?
If yes, then you might as well go for it.
If no, I'd hold out till you can afford a 6.7, which runs way nicer stock than the 6.4's stock.
I treat the 6.4 truck the same as I did my 7.3 truck, with the major exception being that the 6.4 is tuned and deleted.
I don't worry about fuel filter changes every 2nd oil change, and I fill up wherever I end up, with no preference to any company in particular. I've swapped fuel filters a couple times, and they are a little discolored and thats about it, nothing scary or nothing. I think theres a better chance of having debris drop in the fuel filter housing while changing filters, than anything else.
As for the water in fuel scary stories, I just don't care. Ever common rail diesel engine has the possibility to self destruct from fuel system injector failures, hanging an injector and melting down, not just ford. So either learn to live with that fact, or drive old 7.3's and 6.0's.
The 2008+ trucks are nicer in many ways. I went from f250 to f350, and the new truck is much nicer riding. It is quieter, not just engine noise, but from road noise as well. The newer transmissions are really great. Despite the allisons smooth shifting and massive marketing, the truth is that it really isn't that great, sure it shifts nice, but it is not quite as strong as the ford tranny. The ford tranny is pretty stout. Some guys have wrecked them with big tuners, but it is amazing what they will take, with giant tunes like spartan's +350 tune and +310 tune, which dyno almost 600 rear wheel HP. I am pretty sure that is the most RWHP capable out of any diesel pickup truck ever, with just a tuner, air, and exhaust. If not, it's gotta be close.
The 6.4 engine itself, is possibly the toughest, strongest diesel engine ever put in a pickup, with the worst emissions system ever put in one as well. The EGR and DPF emission system works fine, but only if you were to use the truck almost exclusively on the highway. In town errands and stop and go traffic, and even mixed driving, will eventually cause problems with the DPF getting clogged.
The bottom end on a 6.4 is really stout, really nothing to worry about. Head gaskets go sometimes for some guys, but usually the tune is to blame, remember that these trucks make huge power and boost, so taking that into consideration, they hold together really well.
The compound turbochargers are amazing with tunes, pulls really hard, even at low RPM's. If I had one complaint, it would be actually that the turbochargers can sometimes make too much boost, which I also think has something to do with head gasket issues.
The cooling system on the 6.4's is great, although a few guys had radiator issues with leaking, still present in the 6.7's. Same possibility for cavitation issues as with any other truck.
100% stock, I probably wouldn't buy another one, but if it can be tuned, it's a great truck. Stock, it gets the job done for sure, still a great truck, but the emissions junk is not worth it. I can tune and delete where I live, so it's all good. My next truck might be a 2010 6.4 truck possibly.
The 6.4 starts nicer than the 7.3's, just fires right up instantly, even if it's pretty cold out. I started my 6.4 at times where the 7.3 didn't have a hope of cranking over.
Fuel economy; stock it can be quite low in comparison, tuned, same as any other truck. Of course the f450's and dually trucks with the 4.10 axles will rev higher, and burn more fuel.
So basically, can you tune it and delete the emissions junk?
If yes, then you might as well go for it.
If no, I'd hold out till you can afford a 6.7, which runs way nicer stock than the 6.4's stock.
#11
07-06-2014, 11:33 AM
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2010 F-250
I own both a 7.3PS and now a 6.4 for the last year.
My 2010 has no warranty and has been 100% problem free since it rolled off the showroom floor. I have the OASIS reports, Carfax, and Blackstone. Everything has been great! I have gone a little over on maintenance but made sure to keep a tight eye on everything! Dump my water seperator monthly, Ak test my coolant very regularly.
With 130,000 plus miles on mine, its running strong! I get around 15.5mpg's. My driving style is 90% highway (65mph+), and the rest in town. I have loaded it down with some heavy loads. Cold weather start up is awesome. Of course my 7.3 has been upgraded so I have never had those issues in either at -20 temps.
I use nothing but Ford recommended lubes and filters. I use Ford's Cetane boosters and anti-gel. All is good here!
My 2010 has no warranty and has been 100% problem free since it rolled off the showroom floor. I have the OASIS reports, Carfax, and Blackstone. Everything has been great! I have gone a little over on maintenance but made sure to keep a tight eye on everything! Dump my water seperator monthly, Ak test my coolant very regularly.
With 130,000 plus miles on mine, its running strong! I get around 15.5mpg's. My driving style is 90% highway (65mph+), and the rest in town. I have loaded it down with some heavy loads. Cold weather start up is awesome. Of course my 7.3 has been upgraded so I have never had those issues in either at -20 temps.
I use nothing but Ford recommended lubes and filters. I use Ford's Cetane boosters and anti-gel. All is good here!
#13
07-06-2014, 01:35 PM
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07-06-2014, 02:07 PM
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07-07-2014, 08:21 AM
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Thank you for all the input, it is greatly appreciated. Looks like I'll be hanging out here a little more often. I will be picking up my 08 drw this afternoon 
This thing is loaded to the gills, I'm not sure there is anything it doesn't have. Better yet the dealer made a mistake on their online price to the tune of 4k, so I think we got a pretty good deal on it
This thing is loaded to the gills, I'm not sure there is anything it doesn't have. Better yet the dealer made a mistake on their online price to the tune of 4k, so I think we got a pretty good deal on it