Well I'm sure that the wheel coming apart(turbo wheel burst) did obviously impact balance. But as far as initial balance you know it was good because it was a genuine Garrett product? I just find it hard to believe with Garrett's QC program that would put out something that would have compromised fins, that would fail at the specified RPM it was designed for.

The following is an interesting read about turbo wheel burst:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ontainment.pdf

I really like the idea of the Wicked Wheels, but I've seen a couple of threads like this and people who posted insane drive pressure numbers from using them.

My main thing is that I think that Garrett, a large corporation owned by another large corporation is going to have better QC than a smaller foreign company.

I'm just trying to see if I can spot a trend between where people got the wheels, how they were installed and problems that came as a result of them, or if simply its just dumb luck and it is ok to install them.

 

Sorry I missed the first portion of your post. I was talking only about the turbine side in the post above with the pics. The turbine wheel was ground down for balance. The compressor wheel was not ground on. It appeared to be a high quality wheel and is still fine except for it hitting the housing.

 

Right I know which one is where and its purpose in the turbo.

I also know the chewed up one is the turbine wheel. But there is really only a handful of ways that a turbine wheel will burst. I think that any change to the turbo system, before this kind of thing happens is worth looking into.

Was curious as to if you were only monitoring boost, or if you had an eye on drive pressure or back pressure when this event happened?

My thought is that perhaps, the WW increased boost on compressor side. This in turn caused drive pressure to sky rocket as the turbine was driven outside of its limits and we get turbine wheel burst.

I do know that RR and DS have two different designs for the wheel, one is 5 and the other is 6. Wonder if drive pressure increases vary with either option?

Not necessarily related, but Garett offers a shaft speed kit which seems like it would be a pretty sweet thing to see what is going on with shaft speed as it relates to boost. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...tt/accessories

 

The billet compressor wheels generally lower drive pressures due to increased boost therefore moving closer to a 1:1 ratio. My compressor wheel did not fail, the failure was the turbine wheel.

I could see the 1.0 exhaust housing having a hand in the turbine wheel failing. The 1.0 housing increases the shaft speed of the turbo. Any issues in the turbine wheel will be magnified under higher speeds.

 

Yeah good point on the 1.0. My real only thought on this issue was related to drive pressure. Either way sure is an unfortunate event.

 

I apologize, I thought there was some confusion on which wheel was where.

The drive pressures are def higher with the 1.0 housing. And with the sustained high rpms I have when towing, any defect is magnified. I think the turbine wheel had a manufacturing defect or was ground too much during balancing causing a fin to fatigue.

This turbo came with the 1.0 housing as well, I didn't add it later.

 

Wow I didn't even know they came factory with a 1.0 housing? Did you like the low rpm boost with the 1.0 before it broke?

I've got a 1.0 on my truck, but really noticed no difference between it and stock.

 

They didn't come from the factory with a 1.0 housing. My original stock turbo went out when I was on the road towing. I bought this Borg Warner stock replacement turbo to get me home. I didn't want the 1.0 initially but that is what they sent. The turbo was brand new.

I love the way the 1.0 housing works on stock injectors, especially towing. It lowers the power band and boosts sooner. You should be able to notice a difference, do you have a chip? I noticed a huge difference with the 1.0, you could have some exhaust or boost leaks.