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  #1  
Old 07-01-2014, 08:42 AM
krazybones krazybones is offline
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2010 IWE Grinding Noise. Yes another one, but please look.

Long time Lurker (Since 2010) but first time registered/poster.

Sorry to beat a dead horse on this IWE Topic but I am at a loss here.

I have read or skimmed through this lengthy thread.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html

I have some key questions as that thread refer's to the 2004-2008 model Years. That being said I have a 2010.

I had (Still have) the chronic known IWE issue (rattling/grinding noise) associated with a Bad IWE or Vacuum Leak at lower speeds (20-45mph)

1st:
I checked all the lines and saw no damage or cracking anywhere on the lines. It sounded as though the noise was predominately coming from the Passenger side. I decided that if one was bad I was going to replace both. Ordered and replaced BOTH IWE Actuators. The passenger side actuator did show wear. I also inspected all the Hub Gears and everything there looked as new except the passenger actuator. At that time I presumed the seal on the Actuator was bad. So problem resolved right? Not the Case...

2nd:
Then I decided to replace all the Vacuum Lines even though I could not see any issues because I had all in my garage needed to do so. (I do not have a Vacuum Pump w/Gauge though)I first did it with all the professional 5/32 High Temp Tubing and industrial Push Lock fittings. Drove truck and still getting the noise.

3rd:
Called local parts store and they had a $23 Solenoid in stock so I Replaced that as well. - Still no change...

4th:
Decided to go back and rip out all the plastic Vacuum Tubing with good Push lock fittings to the old fashion reinforced Rubber Vacuum Tubing (only need 1 T-Fitting this way to assure proper sealing) I even replaced the Vent Tubes and now all lines are direct to the Actuator (No piece meal old tubing, hosing or fittings).

5th:
I checked the ONLY Check Valve I can find right off the Solenoid and is working as it should. (1 way flow of air)

6th
Double checked Actuator to hub tightness (3 bolts to hub), Double Checked all routing of lines, etc... have been over all I can see!

7th
Put Truck in the air and tested the 4x4 in drive locking in and out and all seems to work at low speeds. Will engage and disengage as it should.

Here are my questions I need to ask after doing all my research for this site and the above listed Thread.

That thread was for 2004-2008. My truck is a 2010 and I cannot find a 2nd Check Valve. Where is the 2nd one or are the 2010's different then the earlier model's?

Does the 2010 have Vacuum Reserve Box behind the battery on the battery Tray like the 2004-2008's?


Is there anything else I am missing?

Is it possible I had 2 issues at once? Reason why I ask this is even when driving down the road in 4x4 the noise will still happen. Generally as I have read that if you are in 4x4 it will go away. This seems odd
One being bad passenger actuator and/or vacuum line issue (Now Fixed)
2nd, could the Wheel Bearing(s) be bad?

I do not recall a wheel bearing ever sounding like the IWE Rattle Can tinny sounding issue?

Thoughts, Ideas, direction...? Thank you guys, hope my 1st post makes sense...
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2014, 06:27 PM
krazybones krazybones is offline
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Tonight just now I checked all fuses, checked engine vacuum (22 psi at solenoid off engine), checked vacuum at the actuators on each side (19 psi in the lines each side), also just replaced the vacuum check valve (the only one i can find)no dice... getting frustrated.

I am almost wondering if I was sold a bad actuator that I installed on the passenger side???

Also pulled battery looking for a vacuum canister as stated that the 2004-2009's have. My 2010 does not have one there that I could see.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2014, 06:24 AM
krazybones krazybones is offline
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Lots of views...?

Noise is still coming from the passenger hub area or Actuator.

Would it be possible that I was sold a Bad actuator that I just put in?
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  #4  
Old 07-02-2014, 06:46 AM
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Looks like you may be driving in uncharted waters.

I haven't heard about too many problems with the IWE actuators in this forum. There have been some occasional reports of problems with the vacuum check valve, but usually after that is found and fixed the problem gets resolved.

All new parts are made by humans, and as such are imperfect. It is always possible to get a bad part out of the box.

It sounds to me like you've done your homework and checked everything out as much as possible. if you are getting vacuum to the wheel ends, and evenly at both sides, then it stands to reason that the problem exists downstream of the vacuum signal.

That would lead me to the to the IWE and the axle spline shaft. the new IWE would be my first suspect, but it would be possible for a bad IWE to ruin the shaft. IF that were to happen, the new IWE would have a hard time working correctly on the damaged shaft.

the only other thought i had was to plumb in a vacuum gauge right above the IWE and monitor the vacuum signal going down the road. It sounds like your lines going down to the IWE are good, but if the IWE had a vacuum leak you'd be hard pressed to know it unless you monitor the vacuum condition while in use.

sorry we aren't much help on this one. i don't think the IWE's have been particularlly problematic on these models.

keep us updated though, if you can. these threads are great for archives as people are always searching past threads for solutions.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:11 AM
krazybones krazybones is offline
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Thank you for your reply meborder.

Tonight a buddy is going to let me borrow a Vacuum type pump (w/gauge) I can hook directly up to the actuator for a leak test. This will tell me once pressurized if the Actuator is holding pressure. Once I can verify that I will at least know it is 1 of two things at that point (The new Actuator or Axle Spline shaft) - Or so I think in theory.

So I "MIGHT" need this:
http://my.cardone.com/Imagesftp/66/662191-01.jpg
or another one of these (Round 2 / or second try)
https://www.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...01-0&width=500

Last night I did change the 1 check Valve I can find. Do you know if my 2010 has 2 Check Valves like the 2004-2008's have? Also is there a Vacuum canister on my 2010 like the 2004-2008's?

Again thank you... Looking forward to resolving this. I know if I take it in to someone to fix, they will just want to replace everything and cost me a bunch when I am able to do all myself.

Need to get back to working on the Chevelle and other hobbies and not have to deal with my Daily Driver.
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  #6  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:19 PM
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it appears that there is only one check valve.
Buy 2010 Ford F-150 Parts | FordParts.com

as best as i can tell from the diagram, anyway.

there also appears to be a vacuum reservoir as well, it would be upstream of the check valve. looks like the solenoid vacuum valve is between the reservoir and the check valve. (kinda hard to read the diagram)
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:14 AM
krazybones krazybones is offline
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Bought a vacuum pump.

Both Actuators hold vacuum with no leaking. Held 25 psi for 3 or 4 minutes with no drop in pressure. So the Actuators "should" be good.

Double checked the psi on the lines again at the hubs. Both sides have a constant psi of 22 lbs wit engine running.

I am lost. Truck goes in Monday morning. Pains me to do that.

Happy 4th of July out there and remember why we celebrate it... peace.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:58 AM
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Happy 4th of July out there and remember why we celebrate it... peace.
Amen brother, and welcome to the forum
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by krazybones View Post
...I am lost. Truck goes in Monday morning...
Any news from your dealership yet, krazybones? How many miles are on your truck? Keep us posted.

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Old 07-07-2014, 01:15 PM
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Sorry for the Hi-jack.
Crystal are you back from your vacation?


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Old 07-07-2014, 03:48 PM
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Sorry for the Hi-jack.
Crystal are you back from your vacation?...
Sure am, Sean! Did you need my help or are you just checking in?

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Old 07-08-2014, 01:14 AM
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:14 AM
 
 
 
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