I have some key questions as that thread refer's to the 2004-2008 model Years. That being said I have a 2010.
I had (Still have) the chronic known IWE issue (rattling/grinding noise) associated with a Bad IWE or Vacuum Leak at lower speeds (20-45mph)
I checked all the lines and saw no damage or cracking anywhere on the lines. It sounded as though the noise was predominately coming from the Passenger side. I decided that if one was bad I was going to replace both. Ordered and replaced BOTH IWE Actuators. The passenger side actuator did show wear. I also inspected all the Hub Gears and everything there looked as new except the passenger actuator. At that time I presumed the seal on the Actuator was bad. So problem resolved right? Not the Case...
Then I decided to replace all the Vacuum Lines even though I could not see any issues because I had all in my garage needed to do so. (I do not have a Vacuum Pump w/Gauge though)I first did it with all the professional 5/32 High Temp Tubing and industrial Push Lock fittings. Drove truck and still getting the noise.
Called local parts store and they had a $23 Solenoid in stock so I Replaced that as well. - Still no change...
Decided to go back and rip out all the plastic Vacuum Tubing with good Push lock fittings to the old fashion reinforced Rubber Vacuum Tubing (only need 1 T-Fitting this way to assure proper sealing) I even replaced the Vent Tubes and now all lines are direct to the Actuator (No piece meal old tubing, hosing or fittings).
I checked the ONLY Check Valve I can find right off the Solenoid and is working as it should. (1 way flow of air)
Double checked Actuator to hub tightness (3 bolts to hub), Double Checked all routing of lines, etc... have been over all I can see!
Put Truck in the air and tested the 4x4 in drive locking in and out and all seems to work at low speeds. Will engage and disengage as it should.
Here are my questions I need to ask after doing all my research for this site and the above listed Thread.
That thread was for 2004-2008. My truck is a 2010 and I cannot find a 2nd Check Valve. Where is the 2nd one or are the 2010's different then the earlier model's?
Does the 2010 have Vacuum Reserve Box behind the battery on the battery Tray like the 2004-2008's?
Is there anything else I am missing?
Is it possible I had 2 issues at once? Reason why I ask this is even when driving down the road in 4x4 the noise will still happen. Generally as I have read that if you are in 4x4 it will go away. This seems odd
One being bad passenger actuator and/or vacuum line issue (Now Fixed)
2nd, could the Wheel Bearing(s) be bad?
I do not recall a wheel bearing ever sounding like the IWE Rattle Can tinny sounding issue?
Thoughts, Ideas, direction...? Thank you guys, hope my 1st post makes sense...
Tonight just now I checked all fuses, checked engine vacuum (22 psi at solenoid off engine), checked vacuum at the actuators on each side (19 psi in the lines each side), also just replaced the vacuum check valve (the only one i can find)no dice... getting frustrated.
I am almost wondering if I was sold a bad actuator that I installed on the passenger side???
Also pulled battery looking for a vacuum canister as stated that the 2004-2009's have. My 2010 does not have one there that I could see.
Looks like you may be driving in uncharted waters.
I haven't heard about too many problems with the IWE actuators in this forum. There have been some occasional reports of problems with the vacuum check valve, but usually after that is found and fixed the problem gets resolved.
All new parts are made by humans, and as such are imperfect. It is always possible to get a bad part out of the box.
It sounds to me like you've done your homework and checked everything out as much as possible. if you are getting vacuum to the wheel ends, and evenly at both sides, then it stands to reason that the problem exists downstream of the vacuum signal.
That would lead me to the to the IWE and the axle spline shaft. the new IWE would be my first suspect, but it would be possible for a bad IWE to ruin the shaft. IF that were to happen, the new IWE would have a hard time working correctly on the damaged shaft.
the only other thought i had was to plumb in a vacuum gauge right above the IWE and monitor the vacuum signal going down the road. It sounds like your lines going down to the IWE are good, but if the IWE had a vacuum leak you'd be hard pressed to know it unless you monitor the vacuum condition while in use.
sorry we aren't much help on this one. i don't think the IWE's have been particularlly problematic on these models.
keep us updated though, if you can. these threads are great for archives as people are always searching past threads for solutions.
Tonight a buddy is going to let me borrow a Vacuum type pump (w/gauge) I can hook directly up to the actuator for a leak test. This will tell me once pressurized if the Actuator is holding pressure. Once I can verify that I will at least know it is 1 of two things at that point (The new Actuator or Axle Spline shaft) - Or so I think in theory.
there also appears to be a vacuum reservoir as well, it would be upstream of the check valve. looks like the solenoid vacuum valve is between the reservoir and the check valve. (kinda hard to read the diagram)
I have a 2010 5.4 f150 XLT with same issue thats been making noise for about 3 months now.
I started with changing vacuum lines from dealership. Recently changed the IWE and Solenoid.
It felt amazing for 2mins and 14 seconds after replacing the solenoid, then the noise came back.
It kinda feels like my truck lacks vacuum or something. Doesn't throttle up the same as when I bought it. For example, when I put the gear into D, it would have a constant speed that it rolls without any gas. Now it barely moves without pressing on gas (which results in noise).
Checked the vacuum with vacuum pump and it doesn't seem to have any problem.
Should I just go ahead with replacing the axle shaft now before the new IWE gets damaged again?
My daily driver can't be making this sound. I am about to go mad..
I just want to get rid of it. The noise or the truck. Either one really.
Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?
Yeah I guess so. It didn't seem to be a wise choice until now since my local dealership is known to overcharge. Plus I have to drive this truck everyday so I can't leave it at the shop for too long.
Current mileage on this truck is 62000km. Not sure why it's breaking down already. Front upper joint also has to be replaced on mine.