Mean Green alternators?
#1
Mean Green alternators?
78 F-250 4x4 400M Work truck, plowing snow, winching, camping etc, LOTS of electrical load..
I DO NOT want to do a 3G alternator swap, 1 wire conversion etc.
I WANT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR. DIRECT, DROP-IN, BOLT ON REPLACEMENT.
Ive heard of "mean green" alternators, and theyre pretty good: Anyone running one, and what model do you have?
Thanks
I DO NOT want to do a 3G alternator swap, 1 wire conversion etc.
I WANT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR. DIRECT, DROP-IN, BOLT ON REPLACEMENT.
Ive heard of "mean green" alternators, and theyre pretty good: Anyone running one, and what model do you have?
Thanks
#2
#3
For direct bolt in, I know of two basic choices. Powermaster, Summit, Tuff Stuff and others offer alternators with Ford style case and Delco guts. Ratings are typically 100-140 amps. Its also possible to soup up the original (Powermaster or a local shop). I personally would avoid the souped up original as idle output, cooling and life could be limited. There are a bunch of options in the link below.
With any higher output alternator, upgrade of the charge wire is important to get the benefit without frying/burning something. I run an internally regulated Summit 100 amp Ford case/Delco version on my stuff. It bolted in as original. I made a short 6 gauge charge wire with 125 amp "maxi fuse" from the alternator to start relay. I also hooked up the original charge wire so the harness gets "fed" as original. I left the regulator and regulator wires and tied/taped them off. The original 40 amp alternator is boxed up behind the seat as backup. I added a volt meter hooked to the ignition accessory circuit to monitor condition... a good idea in any case as the original ammeter is not very helpful. It all works great.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...ord=alternator
With any higher output alternator, upgrade of the charge wire is important to get the benefit without frying/burning something. I run an internally regulated Summit 100 amp Ford case/Delco version on my stuff. It bolted in as original. I made a short 6 gauge charge wire with 125 amp "maxi fuse" from the alternator to start relay. I also hooked up the original charge wire so the harness gets "fed" as original. I left the regulator and regulator wires and tied/taped them off. The original 40 amp alternator is boxed up behind the seat as backup. I added a volt meter hooked to the ignition accessory circuit to monitor condition... a good idea in any case as the original ammeter is not very helpful. It all works great.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...ord=alternator
#4
Alternators for vans, ambulances, buses, and wreckers are HD out the box I do believe?
Tried this place? High Amp Ford 3G, 4G & 6G Alternators, 200-300 amp Ford Alternators, Nations Starter & Alternator
Or...http://alternatorparts.com/6g-series...lternator.html
Alternators and Alternator Parts: Visit Advance Auto Parts
With very little work, here is a great product. High Output Alternator, 170 Amp 1 Wire
Tried this place? High Amp Ford 3G, 4G & 6G Alternators, 200-300 amp Ford Alternators, Nations Starter & Alternator
Or...http://alternatorparts.com/6g-series...lternator.html
Alternators and Alternator Parts: Visit Advance Auto Parts
With very little work, here is a great product. High Output Alternator, 170 Amp 1 Wire
#5
#6
I run the Tuff Stuff 100amp with great results.
The Mean green alternators sure seem nice but are they worth more than twice as much?
The problem with trying to get to many amps out of a system with out any modifications means you will still be running a single belt which only can handle so much load before slipping.
The Mean green alternators sure seem nice but are they worth more than twice as much?
The problem with trying to get to many amps out of a system with out any modifications means you will still be running a single belt which only can handle so much load before slipping.
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