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  #46  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:25 PM
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fender removed




factory writing



fender mounted!



also mounted new Kenwoods in the doors
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1985 Ford Bronco: 460 bored to 475, C-6, 3 in. body lift, 35" BF Goodrich ATs, 400+ hp
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  #47  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:29 PM
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The next day I went to start it, and go up to the gas station. I turned the key, and nothing happened. I popped the hood, and found this:



One new cable later, and it started right up! I went to the gas station, and saw this, and had to get a picture with the bronco.



I drove it like that for a new weeks, until last week...
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1985 Ford Bronco: 460 bored to 475, C-6, 3 in. body lift, 35" BF Goodrich ATs, 400+ hp
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  #48  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:39 PM
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...When I replaced the turn signals, bezels, trim, rock guard, and welded in a patch panel!


I decided to get the custom turn signals from LMC, I also thought about smoked ones, which I tested on a extra set with broken mounts.


Comparison

Before


I had already replaced the upper trim when I got it, and decided to replace the lower piece now


Mounted

Lights on.
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1985 Ford Bronco: 460 bored to 475, C-6, 3 in. body lift, 35" BF Goodrich ATs, 400+ hp
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  #49  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:50 PM
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The next day I started on the patch panel. I had a friend who went to school as a welder weld it in. Neither of us had ever done this, so it was a bit of a learning experience. I got the patch for $10 on craigslist, which was the only reason I decided to do this. I will be getting a full quarter for the passenger side.

Trim removed


Cut down.

Cut out

Drilled out the spot welds holding the inner fender on.

You can see one of the rust holes, that we fixed later.


Clamped.


Finished at 11:30 PM, and sprayed primer on the welds. The next day I sandblasted an earlier patch, and primered everything.

I also bought the patch for below the taillight from LMC for $30.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:56 PM
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Still have to grind the welds down, and put a little filler on. We also fixed the spot on the inside wheel well.




Still need to find a set of inner fenders.
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  #51  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:01 PM
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With a few friends and their trucks.


How it is right now.

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  #52  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:25 PM
Fordman96 Fordman96 is offline
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Looks like it's coming along nicely. I personally don't like how the welds finished out, but it's coming along nicely.
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  #53  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman96 View Post
Looks like it's coming along nicely. I personally don't like how the welds finished out, but it's coming along nicely.
Just need to grind them down, we started, and didn't finsh , but they are very smooth, no pinholes, and it wasn't warped.
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  #54  
Old 09-10-2014, 06:20 PM
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Not much of an update, ground down half the welds and primered the whole thing. It didn't turn out as nice as I hoped, and I may buy a full quarter, or a whole tub if I can get the money because there is still a lot of rust. I also blew out the right rear brake, and had a frustrating experience with the drivers door. First, the latch quit working, so I pulled the panel off, lubed everything and got it working. Put the panel back on, and then opened the door from the inside, and snapped the interior handle off! Drove to the junkyard, and paid way too much for the last handle they had, then went home. As I was mounting the new handle, I then broke my ratchet! I just bought a 1995 crown vic police interceptor to drive to college, so the bronco is sitting at home right now. My dad is going to fix the brake so I can drive it to a show before we put it in storage for the winter with my 49 ford.
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  #55  
Old 10-26-2014, 06:43 PM
F150in4x4 F150in4x4 is offline
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If you do the next ones try flange plyers.
Cut out the same if you want or leave the panel as is.
Cut the rusted panel out about 1/4" smaller than the replacement panel. Use the plyers to put the "step" into the replacement panel.
Then fit the replacement panel into place behind the body, tak weld into place.
I have done this next step by doing factory type welding by using the spot weld method. That way the metal doesnt get to hot welding the entire piece up and warping the metal.
drill holes into the body just enough to see the front side of the replacement panel then weld into place. you can do as many spot welds as you want but its really persnal preference on how many and how big
After you grind all the welds flat use BondoGlass its just like Bondo/filler but has fiber glass in it and is a lot more stronger. Use this to fill in big gaps between the body and panel.
Then use bondo to smooth out, remember less bondo the better. More bondo you use the more chances of cracks.
Hopes this helps, ill be doing my Bronco sometime in the summer or this next year.
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  #56  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:16 AM
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Thanks for the advice, but we have decided to find a rust free donor bronco, and swap tubs. The current tub will go on the donor frame, and I am going to make it my winter beater. The Bronco is going into storage on Nov 1st. Here are some pictures from the car show with my 49, and the bronco, and some at a park I like.




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  #57  
Old 10-29-2014, 09:32 AM
phillips91 phillips91 is offline
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Looking good so far.
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:32 AM
 
 
 
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