On the other hand, you are assuming the pump wasn't worn out to begin with.
It doesn't take much to have a pump that is right on the edge, yet still works most of the time; any little change -- increased temps, reduced viscosity -- could throw it over the edge.

Plus, even assuming you're going to end up dedicating an IP and injectors /only/ to waste oil blend in the long run, is it worth it? I mean, a rebuild costs $500. That's approximately 125 gallons of fuel, at current prices.
If your pump is /already/ shot, or you have a spare that you've gotten for pennies, the payback time is even less.

Also, there's plenty of success stories out there; you've just got to be careful about your filtering.
On the flip side, I've also run into plenty of people complaining about the ULSD ruining their pumps due to lack of lubrication, so it may be a case of 'pick your poison'... Or just that everyone expects the pumps to run 'forever', when they have a 100,000 mile life(and that's not even taking into account crummy rebuilds, which may be no more than a seal-replacement and cleaning).

 

Pretty sure youre not either, or you would be laying in it. WMO doesnt hurt IPs, end of story. Think about this rocket scientist. Diesel is no cleaner than WMO once its filtered. Amazing right? Pump was wore out to begin with, and still runs fine on diesel and on wmo/diesel. Running #1 was giving me problems.

 

OK, I'd say "IF" filtered properly, the used ATF as an additive would be OK. ATF has been used for years to free stuck lifters in the crankcase and free stuck injectors (gas and diesel).

 

Most of the comments here are BOTH RIGHT AND WRONG.

I have been running wvo for 5 yrs no problems. Sorta!! Wvo and Wmo are both fine in the system. Its the fine particles and contamintats that get trough your filter that's the problem. Along with the them being a thicker liquid and hard on the pumps. So it wear pumps and injectors out faster. I save aroun $150-$200 a week in fuel so I can afford to change pump and injectors every couple of years.

That said a couple of gallons here and there probabley wouldn't do any noticeable harm. Yes your truck might die an hour or day sooner but with anything there's a trade off. As long as you are aware of what the potential problem could be you have to decide. Longer life vs Free Fuel.

Most peoples problems from alt. fuels is not from the fuel. Its from them not filtering correctly, bad conversion setups, or they get lazy and skip a few steps and have no problems for a few mo and think its ok untill it isn't ok.

 

I agree with this.

Also consider that although a pump may be $500, I personally would rather do something else with a Saturday afternoon than change a pump.

Then there is the problem with low cetane: poor starting, additional smell, detonation eroding the edge of the piston crown, etc

 

So I add half a quart to a 19 gallon tank. I don't see that reducing the cetane number much at all, if any.
How fine of a filter should I use prior to dumping in the tank?

 

Ah, but how much are you effectively getting paid for that Saturday afternoon?
If you're talking about saving $150 a week, and the pump costs $500(and you replace it once a year), you're effectively getting paid $7300 for a few hours work.
Even factoring in other wasted time due to starting issues, other pieces etc... that's still a massive ton of money. Heck, you could replace the entire /engine/ with a brand new crate one for less than that!


Honestly, I'd look into jean/denim filters. Easy as pie, cheap, and like 5 micron. Check google for more details.

Also, I'd add at least a quart, if not two per tank; Think about it giving you the increased lubricity and detergent effects.

 

Bag filters I use for my oil can be had here for less than $10 a filter.

Bag Filters / Sock Filters / Water Sock Filters / WVO Filters / Oil Filters / SVO Filters - 1, 5, 10, 25, 50, 75, 100, 200 , 400, 600 Micron / Size 1, 2, or 3 Sock Filters- Utah Biodiesel Supply

A blue jean pants leg will work also since you don't have a lot and it will go through the fuel filter on the truck also.

I run hundreds of gallons through one of there large ones before it becomes a problem so get a small one at 5micron to be on the safe side. Your factor fuel filter on your truck only filters at 10 mic.

As for injector pump problems I had 175,000 on the factory pump when I started so I changed pump and injectors. I've been using them for 3 years now. Just turned 300,000.

 

How is the smoke, noise, and stench from the low cetane?

 

There is none. At 20/80 there is no side effects other than slightly more power and sheer joy that is driving your vehicle on free fuel. If anything it runs quieter on WMO. You dont start having smoke issues until 50/50 + even then its only at idle, and the engine runs very quiet, you also need to watch EGTs more closely. If anything i think the oil burns slower than diesel. Even at 50/50 it still starts right up in the 50s. I run it more diluted when its cool due to viscosity. There seems to be zero drawback to running 20/80.

Most would assume, (i was among them) that the WMO would add some lube to the fuel. According to the few studies ive read, it in fact does not. It shows less wear than straight ULSD, but the difference is marginal, that said, in both studies, throughout all the tests, 20% WMO ALWAYS scored less wear than the control (ulsd) but only by .2% or something. 2% bio is the best for lube (and cheapest) with Stanadyne bringing up #2.

 

That sounds like it's slower burning so you might need to advance the timing. I'll have to play with the timing I guess when I get into this.
And yes, the retarded timing would produce exactly that -- smoke, low power and higher EGTs.

 

Not quite. There is no smoke, there is more power, and higher egts under load. Oil has more btu than diesel. Meaning more power per cc. Thus more power and higher egts when you dont have enough air. Really all it means is that running straight diesel i could afford to turn my pump up some. my guess for being quieter, is the oil doesnt atomize as well as diesel, so it burns slower, which could also attribute to egts. BTW its not like my EGTs were 200* higher... 50* maybe, stock untouched pump. Would max out at 1100 instead of 1000-1050. The haze i had at WOT /high rpm with straight diesel was gone with 20% WMO.

I suggest not burning synthetic. At one point i ran a tank of 80-90% WMO and half was synthetic.... pretty noticable ash buildup in the exhaust.

 

I burn 90% Veg oil with 10% diesel added just to thin it out for filtering and cold weather. It retards the timing but I didn't adjust it due to the fact that I start and stop on straight diesel. Every now and then run for a week on just diesel with injector cleaner in it to help keep pump and inductors clean.
If im pulling heavy I can switch back to diesel.

This is one of those trial and error things.