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1992 F150 losing reversed when warmed up.

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  #1  
Old 06-27-2014, 05:41 PM
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1992 F150 losing reversed when warmed up.

Hi, I recently bought a 1992 F-150 with an AOD and it losses reverse when it gets warmed up. All the other gears seem fine until it gets hot then it just doesn't drop into reverse. I haven't tried revving it too much because I don't want it to bang into gear. I actually would just assume stay out of reverse altogether until I better understand the problem so I don't make it worse. I am trying to figure out what my best options are for getting this fixed. I went to pick up a refrigerant recovery unit I saw on CL to fix the AC on this same truck, the guy casually mentioned that he had just picked up an AOD at a swap meet for $40 earlier that day. He said he was going to put a shift kit in it and use it in a mustang, but wasn't sure he'd ever get to it so if I wanted it he'd let me have it for $100. For a $100 I figured I’d take a chance on it, so I threw it in the trunk. He said according to the guy he bought it from it had about 80k on it and only recommended a new filter and it should be good to go. There are some differences between this potential swap and the one on my truck though, they are the linkage and there are 5 wires on the electrical connector on my F 150 tranny and only a 4 pin plug on the swap unit.

I listed all the numbers I could find below and uploaded a couple of pics. I’ve done a few motor and head rebuilds in my day with good success, but like most people I’m a more than a bit intimidated by transmissions. I mean I can do a retrofit no problem, but I’m not too anxious to go poking around inside one and I'm pretty impressed with the folks around here who are doing their own rebuilds. My questions are as follows, can anyone tell me based on the info I’ve provided if the transmission I picked up is a good candidate for a swap? How do I handle the linkage and wiring discrepancy? Do any of these casting and tag numbers contain information about what’s inside the unit like A or B type servos and whatnot? And if so how do I translate it into some meaningful information that tells me something about my truck? I really need to get this truck up and running, my house is still in need of repair from Sandy and the truck is an integral part of my plan to get as much done this summer as possible. Expertise and guidance is very much needed and appreciated. Thanks, Danny



AOD Numbers



Ford F-150 AOD #’s

Transmission case number: RF-E9DP-7006-AA

Tail housing number: RF-EAOP-7A040-BD

Tag Numbers:

PKB BC
021603 L7
F2TP ZB


Swap AOD #’s

Inside Bell housing number: L10 RF-EAOP-7A105-AA

Underneath there’s 2 Hexagonal bosses stamped E and 10

Transmission case number: RF-E9DP-7006-AA

Tail housing number: RF-EAOP-7A040-BD

Tag Numbers:

PKA DD5
013166 E31
E8ZP AA


Rear Differential Tag #’s

S844B
3 55 88 B



<img src="http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg556/danny_d10/FordAOD002_zpsdc22fcdc.jpg" alt="[linked image]">
<img src="http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg556/danny_d10/FordAOD003_zps309ad437.jpg" alt="[linked image]">
<img src="http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg556/danny_d10/FordAOD006_zpsac29bec9.jpg" alt="[linked image]">
<img src="http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg556/danny_d10/FordAOD005_zpsd872dadb.jpg" alt="[linked image]">
 
  #2  
Old 06-27-2014, 10:15 PM
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Had exact same problem with my '92, F150, AOD. Reverse servo was bad. $238 or $178 later and hasn't done it again. The transmission guru said it didn't look bad and wasn't cracked, but he replaced it with a new one. He saved me $$$$ not just giving up and giving me the old line of "Its time for a rebuild".

Just passing that info along to ya.

Also that was done near a year ago, and 6000 miles plus later, its still good!
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-2014, 05:35 PM
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Thanks, I'm hearing that old line a lot myself. One guy wants to sell me a Jasper unit for $1,500 another told me it needed a rebuild for $2,500. I wish your guy was on Long Island. I've been doing my reading and I'm seeing people say that the servos can stick. So can I do this fix myself? Can I just drop the pan and valve body or do I have to yank the whole thing? I'll want to do a filter and fluid change while I'm at it, I need to find the procedure for getting the fluid out of the torque converter. BTW timbersteel, I saw the thread you bumped back when you had this problem. It seems to be a somewhat common issue, but not so easy to get meaningful feedback on. I hope that doesn't happen with me. I know I haven't earned my stripes and I don't know if I'll become a regular here, but I can assure you I will report my progress. Too often I see threads where people drop into places like this to ask for help and they get all kinds of replies only to take off without paying it forward, very rude. On the other hand it's nice when you can google a thread that gives you everything you need to fix your problem and you don't even need to join a new message board to post your question.
 
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:43 PM
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As far as I know, the transmission doesn't need to be out to do it. All he did was remove the pan and valve body. I'm no trans mechanic, so I can't give more information.
 
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Old 07-04-2014, 12:59 AM
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Can I get advice on this please?
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:24 PM
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Bump...All the way back on page three in only 48 hours, glad I posted on busy MB.
 
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