We all have been doing this for a while now, there's no doubt about that. But your right, I did "ask for it" because I wanted clarification.
But of the initial pictures posted, it looked like to me, that there was more room than the first pic that 78-f800 posted.
If the tubes were not routed the way they told you they would be, how would I have known that? You didn't say that in your first paragraph of your dissapointment, and that explains the reason the steering shaft hits.
The slip fit on one tube is weird, I've had a lot of headers use slip fit so that it can go in around components, that's why I asked for clarification.
One reason you can't get a bolt around the corner into that location (2nd pic of 78-f800) is that the hole is barely big enough for the bolt to go through. Because there is plenty of room for the low profile header bolt, or a nut to be in there. If you've been doing this a long time, I know you have had to deal with his a number of times. I understand that it sucks to need to modify brand new parts, but when they give you a .380 hole for a .375 bolt, that obviously needs to go in at an angle, that you need to do a little fitment modification. But with the straight above pic that 78-f600 posted (the first one) it is easy to see that a nut won't fit and doesn't look like a header bolt will either.

I was not trying to argue, just give you another view. You're there with the parts in your hands, I'm on the other side of a computer, looking at 2d pics... There's a lot I can't see.
I made a list not being an ***, but to make it easier to address my questions of clarification. We are both contributing members of this forum, do you honestly think I was bad mouthing your building ability?

 

Well that could go on forever...

Pretty obvious I've been frustrated, disappointed, whatever you wanna call it. So we switched gears and started to dissect the donor bed. Bed sides are removed, it was towards the end of the day so I forgot to take pictures but here's the first few steps.






Sawzall





Angle grinder for the spot welds.

 

Question? That cross member that you put in the front, was that fabricate or what? I'm planning on doing a power stroke swap on my F100 and I will like to get that done on my frame to reinforced.

 

Yeah we made that. Bolts onto the c channel boxed section we fabricated.

 

A list as well, but non snarky, I promise, as I am in the middle of this, or will be.. For now I just stare at my crown vic frame in the garage. I too will be running a 385 series.

1. Regarding the engine mounts I have legit 460 2wd mounts in my truck now and I intend to do exactly what you did... bolt them to the frame, extending a mounting ear past the 'subframe bolt' as needed. Did the engine mount bracket / bolt fit under the, um 'top frame bracket'?



2. Regarding the headers. wow. Thanks for showing us what not to buy. Any particular reason you are going with fender exits? I've got a set of the hedman 2wd 460 headers and they look like they'd work? Hope so anyway.



3. I will probably end up using that oil pan.. I think. How 'low' is it compared to the crossmember? Would hate to have an oil pan the lowest part of the truck!

4. Thanks for the continued posts.. inspiration.

 

Non snarky lists are always welcome!

1. Yes they fit fine. I did not have any clearance issues with those bolts.

2. I want fenderwell exits for performance. I want to get the headers away from the transmission to help keep it cool. A nice set of fender well exits also provide a lot of space when under the truck. I can't say for sure but your chassis exit headers should be ok.

3.









4. Your welcome. Thanks for following, sorry I'm taking so long to get anything done lately.



Mad Dog refunded my money (Thanks "Dawg") so I went and bought some flanges and now its time to start fabricating some custom fenderwell exit headers.




1/2" thick flange. Hey, no random cuts!





2" primaries. Wow, they bolt on. What a concept.

 

So I take it the inner panels of the beds are the same up to '96? My shorbox has some rust through I would like to take care of at some point.

Custom headers will be better all around. You can route them however you need. If you have the money and don't want to burn through U and J bends look into one of the header planning kits sold through Summit or Jegs. That way you can fine tune and adjust as you assemble the pickup and build them when you know they will fit all your modifications.

 

Man this is a sick build you've got goin here. The fab skills shown are amazing. Don't get too disgusted, or disappointed. I really am looking forward to seeing the finished product. Props to you guys!!

 

Thank you! Gonna work on the bed a little more today and start planning the headers. I'll have pictures tonight.

 

hey good luck with those headers least if you make them you know they will work, is skinning a bed hard?

 

Time consuming.










Using the post from the 1977 bed.

 

So why are you putting your bed sides on a different bed, was yours trashed on the inside? looks like fun... Not.

 

460 swap, crown vic swap, older style core support swap, cab swap, Ford 9" swap, etc, etc, etc. Why not do a 90's bed swap??? Pretty much going for perfection here. But yes the original bed was full of rust, dents, and the bedsides needed work. This takes care of the bedsides and gives us a fairly perfect bed to work with.





Mock up.





Much better.





As usual, a little bit of RUST.

 

Way cool idea of putting dent sides onto a way newer box.! I'll have to remember that... Other than time consuming is it pretty straight forward job or lots of modifying to make it work.?

 

Fairly straight forward