Redroad,
If I didn't want to cut the steering arm, how do I separate it from the knuckle?

Rich,
Where can I buy that ball joint install kit you posted a picture of? I'm assuming that I also need to buy that 4-prong ball joint sleeve socket as well.

 

Those ought to be $$, Rock Auto would be a place to ck for a deal?

Also make sure they come with the bearing races and lug bolts all ready pressed in.

I ordered my kit from Auto Zone, it came with all the collars/fittings to press most ball joints and u-joints in and put.

 

Is the knuckle still mounted ? Below will get the process started

 

Good idea to pop it off and leave the studs....just in case "things" change.

Its happens, ya know.

"Swing for the fences", that hilarious.

 

BFG primer !

 

BFG...Big Efin..n (G) ??

BFH='s Big Efin..n Hammer

What were we....ah.....talking about...........? lol

It really does not matter what BFG stands for now...I am distracted.

 

This thread is going places. I like it.

 

BFG = BFH minus the first cup of coffee



Now it's BFH

 

BFH you say, just messing with ya, I figured that is what you meant. Besides you were "distracted".

 

SO I got my 1 5/16 for the passenger side ball joint castle nut. I'm taking tomorrow off to work on the truck. A couple of outstanding questions:
1. Still not sure how hitting the steering arm will loosen it unless the idea is to hit it from underneath
2. I dropped off my NP435 and NP205 for rebuilds. I'm assuming we are going with good axles in the front. I'm still on the fence about the engine. It ran fine, has new cam, lifters, water pump, timing chain, GT40 heads, etc. but I know nothing about the bottom end. Am I being a fool to not rebuild it while it's out?

 

I'm guessing it's some what pressed onto the studs (?), it should pop lose with a few solid BFH hits, in either direction?

You said it ran fine, how was the oil pressure? Did you run factory oil pressure gauge or aftermarket? Which ever one, did you have good oil pressure? That is something to consider about the bottom end.

As far as a rebuild it "while it's out", well its easier to rebuild it now "while it is out", than a month later after you reinstall it....

 

Hi Rich
Truck ran fine before I started down this path. I had a mechanical aftermarket gauge and it held between 40-60 psi when it was running.

 

Well unless you just want to take out the possibility of having to pull it later? But you know how that goes, even after a fresh rebuild, things can and do go wrong.

Its all about the % of piece of mind you want to have.

 

That's why I asked "?" "Is the knuckle still mounted ?"
Hitting it on either side will loosen it enough so you can work it with a cold chisel and hammer at the separation to get it loosenened the rest of the way ..

Putting a fresh motor in is ideal but if your going to do that then make it a 400 .. If you go that route take the knuckles and any other part you think needs cleaned with you to the machine shop with your block so they can throw it in their cleaning tank .. They should charge you only for the block ..

 

Redroad
Do you mean do a bore and stroke or do you mean get a Ford 400? I just got good heads/cam for this 351W, not to mention just sent headers out to be coated.