It was the dimmer switch. The new carpet kind of forced the connection to loosen. I tightened it up and everything works now. I still need to find the right bulb for behind the headlight and wiper switches. All of the bulbs at NAPA were two 'bulbous' to fit in the blue housing.

 

Now that I got my dash lights straightened out (still need to get the horn to work) I'm moving to fix a leak out of my front axle (driver side). The kicker is that I put new axle seals in when I upgraded to forged axles, but I'm guessing I didn't do something properly (I was in a rush because my house was sold and I had to get out quick). Anyway, in the first picture you can see how wet it appears and gear oil will accumulate on floor beneath truck when it sits for a while. I looked in the service manual and do I have to disassemble the free-wheeling hub first (starting with all the small hex screws in second picture)? Will the entire hub/rotor then come off in a single unit (after moving brake caliper) and then slide out the axle? Is there a C-clip inside holding axle to carrier?

thanks
Area where axle is leaking
Do I disassemble this first?

 

From my foggy memory...
Lock in/out off 1st,
Then the inner small axle small snap ring and the large diameter outer snap ring.
Then the 2 outer axle nuts (1 outer lock nut, then the lock washer with holes for the pin on the face of the adjusting axle nut. Both lock and axle nut take a special rentable 4 point hub socket.
Then the outer bearing. Race stays pressed IN the the hub.
Then the hub rotor assembly (held together by the lug bolts being pressed in place).
Once the hub/rotor assemble is off, the tap in inner seal holds the inner bearing in place (in the back side of the rotor/hub assembly). You have to remove the seal to get ot the inner back side bearing to insp it and the race and then repack the bearing. GET A NEW SEAL!!
Then the spindle off. Remove the spindle bolts. Nuts face you. lol See them in the bpttom pic? BFH sand filled rubber mallet, or 5 lb sledge with a 2x4 to protect the threads. Put the nuts back on to protect the threads. DO NOT MESS UP THE THREADS OR THE INNER PART THE BEARING SLIDE ON!!!!! Or try the spindle puller trick bottom pic.
Lay out the pieces and parts in order as they come out, pay attention to the axle nuts and the small lock pin sticking UP on the OUTSIDE of the adjusting axle nut.Make sure you reinstall it the same way. PIN OUT.
Also pay attention to the "pressure spring" and the "spring retaining ring" removal direction.
Also you should have to "lock in" the hub come reinstall time. Also come install time you might have to hold the axle out, with a flat tip thru the u joint to get the small snap ring back on.

 

Thanks Rich! I remember you providing the same great instructions the first time I did this and I scrolled back in this thread to refresh my memory. I remember using my harmonic balancer pulley to pull the axle now. I'm going to start on that tonight. I will be sure to ask about the correct seal to put in to prevent having to do this again any time soon. I am hoping it comes apart much easier this time since there are probably less than 1000 miles on the truck since I did this before. Will post pictures as I go through disassembly.

On an an unrelated note, when my neighbor came over to see my lift, he noted that it looked like my front axle driveshaft was at too severe an angle. I remember having to have the driveshaft shop lengthen it when I put the springs in. I think I remember seeing some 'wedges' that guys used to cant the pinion housing up. Here are the only pics I have on my phone that shows driveshaft. I can take more tonight

 

If memory serves me you have a low pinion front axle? It looks like one, and yes your u- joint cap collar/slip yoke flange (I call is that anyway) to pinion flange/yoke clearance looks a little close. RED ARROWS

But IMO only would be an issue if you un-compressed the suspension and made that real small gap even smaller and probably make "spinney parts" touch. BANG BANG

1* pinion shims might be in order?? Some folks do a yoke grind to give you more clearance. I hate taking material off a critical component like that though.

Also remember that when you are in 4wd that torque will put rotational forces to the axle, and to the pinion and might make the gap close. I cant remember what direction it flex's when under power.

But you slip yoke still has some movement.