For replacement sheet metal I like Tabco .. TABCO uses the same gauge steel used in the original parts..

 

I got a Millermatic 211 so I am going to go the MIG route. I will definitely use the cut out metal for practice. I saw a YouTube video where a guy used a flange tool to create a 1/2" raised flange around the perimeter of the new metal then drilled holes to put all these little 'spot welds' instead of trying to run one long bead. Let me try and find the link. Is lap welding a good method?

http://www.averagejoesautos.com/floorpantutorial.html

 

When you pre drill a hole in flange, it is plug welding, not spot welding. This is common in new cars as it reduces the amount of heat you put in. Heat equals warping in sheet metal.

Running a continuous weld on a formed flange is also common practices. Welding prunes away the base material, to with a flange you still have backer material to prevent burn through.

Anouther thing to remember is welding is stronger then base material, but will also fatigue crack sooner. Every time you start and stop you create a stress concentration point.

overlapping a weld is something you want to avoid if you can as you can overheat the base steel and make the part more brittle.

 

Also avoid grinding a weld if you can as this also creates stress concentration points.

Slow heating and cool down will help to keep part from getting brittle

 

So my springs arrived from Alcan yesterday and I was going to install them today, but I have a couple of questions/concerns:

1. In the photo, I was under the impression that the springs with the more leafs (8) and arch were for the rear (top of photo) and the ones with less arch and fewer leafs (5) bottom of photo) were for the front. However, the big bolt that goes through the front shackle on the front springs only fits the bushings of the springs that I thought were for the rear. Are these actually the front? The yellow circles show the only bushings where the large front shackle bolt will fit

The other issue is that these springs do not appear to be long enough. When I measure the stock front spring eye-to-eye, I get 53". When I measure the spring I thought was for the rear (but may be the front due to the fact it has the bigger bushing) I only get 50 3/4"? Will these still fit? There is a stock front spring at the very bottom of photo

I haven't removed the rear stock springs yet. I did cut through one side of the U-bolts on right side and there was a large 'pop', as though pressure was released. If I cut through the remaining two U-bolts, is the rear frame going to jump up? See second photo.

 

Also, I bought new spring-eye bushings for the rear of the front spring. How do I remove the originals?

 

You had better have the rear axle/back tires barely off the ground and some jack stands holding it steady when you u go to cut the other set of u bolts. Cause that axle is coming down.

I would call Alcan and ask them what part # goes where (front or rear). I bet more leaf springs and sharper arch is for the front.

And get a spring pack center pin to end measurement because you can get them installed backwards.

Did you order those springs for your year of truck?

Hammer and a punch?

 

Thanks Rich and Merry Christmas to all my FTE friends! I never removed the rear tires, so I thought I could just cut off the u bolts. The axle would be supported by the rear tires I just wasn't sure if the frame would pop-up with any kind of force.

 

I made a feeble attempt at installing my NP435/NP205, and that stupid crossmember (that won't come out) thwarted all efforts. I was considering putting the engine/trans combo in and the installing the transfer case. Is that a smart method?

 

If you ever remove u bolts, the best way it to have axle/suspension at full droop and the frame very well supported. And have a way to control the axle coming free, meaning jack under the middle of it.

Eng and trans then xfer case after the other 2 are in, is a a way to go. Just use a good floor jack cause remember the xfer case is heavy and not to stable on the jack.

Be careful sliding in the spline shaft, it should slip in, NOT be forcefully pulled together with the bolts.

 

So I removed the U-bolts (held frame up with engine hoist and supported axle with jack/jackstands). I installed the new springs, but I am still confused because the new springs were shorter than the originals. I'm not sure if this 'shortness' was due to the fact that they have more arch to them or not. When I did get them in, I noticed that the rear shackle 'pivot' (or whatever it is called) is now further extended towards the front of the truck. See comparisons below. The top photo is with the stock spring, and the bottom is with the replacement.

 

My other confusion has to do with the height. When I put in the new spring without the factory 'block', it doesn't appear as though the truck is lifted much more than stock. But when I installed the block, there was a lot more space between the frame and the tire. I don't think Alcan put enough lift in the arch (I'm not sure if I'm saying that right). Here are two shots looking at the frame in comparison to the top of the tire. The top photo is with just the new spring and the bottom photo is the new spring plus the factory block.

 

My last question about the rear springs (at least for right now) is that when you compare the old and new from the location of the centering pin, you can see the differences. You can also kind of tell that there isn't much difference in the height:

 

Did you order the rear springs to have to reuse the factory block or not? I know of a company that you can order a lift kit, and you can choose to reuse the block or not.

Of course choosing to NOT reuse the block the spring you should have a lot more leaf length and arch.

Did you order them for your year, make and model? With more lift you should get more leaf with more arch and yes longer leaf/center pin would need to be different that original to keep the axle centered. Make sense?

 

Hi Rich
Yes, I did tell them that I did NOT want to re-use the block because I thought that would give me a better ride. They knew the year/model of the truck, and that I wanted 4" of lift.
I also didn't mention earlier that in the rear springs, they used the same size bushings for both the front and rear, whereas the stock rear spring had a bigger bushing (or at least a larger bolt) for the front of the rear spring. I had to use a smaller bolt.

For the front springs, they did use a larger bushing for the rear of the front spring, which was the same as the original.

I sent them the same photos and questions about the length and use of the block. Will let you know what they tell me.