BossFan's '78 F250 build
#16
06-26-2014, 03:14 AM
Good choice - I only buy RedHead steering boxes now, spend the extra money up front and you won't regret it. Looks like you're doing it right so you might as well throw in a Borgeson steering shaft and some good Moog tie rod ends and ball joints. Disc brake shields keep mud out of the brakes, are you going to be in mud?
#17
06-26-2014, 06:29 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Dana 60 conversion will add quite a bit of value to the vehicle if you should decide to do it .. The value of your current high pinion 8 lug Dana 44 also has value especially if the passenger side flat top knuckle has been machined and set up for cross over steering .. The Dana 60 axle that is sought after was only made a few years so as a result they are becoming more and more scarce and more and more costly .. This has in turn had an effect on the value of the high pinion Dana 44 as a result because those driven away by the high cost of the Dana 60 are now seeking out the next best thing the HP Dana 44 .. For the guy that's not going to run anything bigger than a 35" tire and does only modest off-road stuff the HP Dana 44 is still a very good choice .. For someone who wants bigger than 35" tires and is wanting to go deep into off-roading the kingpin Dana 60 is a necessity .. It is even a must for those that use their truck for real work ..
Good choice - I only buy RedHead steering boxes now, spend the extra money up front and you won't regret it. Looks like you're doing it right so you might as well throw in a Borgeson steering shaft and some good Moog tie rod ends and ball joints. Disc brake shields keep mud out of the brakes, are you going to be in mud?
#18
06-26-2014, 10:31 AM
Are there specific year Dana 60s that I would look for?
Things to look for
1) Drivers side drop differential location
2) leaf springs
3) 8 lug hub
4) Kingpin knuckles not ball joint
5) 3.25" tubes
6) 32" spring perches
Some more reading
Notice the king pin tops where you would normally find a ball joint like on your HP Dana 44
#19
06-26-2014, 10:41 AM
1978-79 F-350 and some F-250 (Snowfighter and High GVW packages)
Things to look for
1) Drivers side drop differential location
2) leaf springs
3) 8 lug hub
4) Kingpin knuckles not ball joint
5) 3.25" tubes
Some more reading
Things to look for
1) Drivers side drop differential location
2) leaf springs
3) 8 lug hub
4) Kingpin knuckles not ball joint
5) 3.25" tubes
Some more reading
#21
06-26-2014, 11:38 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The logical side of me says that the $1000 could go a long way to get a steering box and getting all the steering woes fixed, and that since the D60 is just a nice to have, I should wait...
#22
06-26-2014, 11:39 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#23
06-26-2014, 12:06 PM
So I found one (from a 1979 F250 snowfighter) and the guy wants $1000. Says it came out of a running vehicle, but I'm guessing that it still needs to be gone through. In addition, it has 4.10 gears, but I have 3.54s in the rear. Are the ratios supposed to match?
The logical side of me says that the $1000 could go a long way to get a steering box and getting all the steering woes fixed, and that since the D60 is just a nice to have, I should wait...
The logical side of me says that the $1000 could go a long way to get a steering box and getting all the steering woes fixed, and that since the D60 is just a nice to have, I should wait...
Also keep in mind your current matching axles do have a $500 - $600 resale value without the springs ..
#24
06-26-2014, 12:55 PM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes the gear ratios have to match but a rear end with 4.10's will be easy to find they are quite common and cheap .. If you are going for a restoration your going to have to go through any axle you run front or rear .. Also if your going to tow the 4:10's would be the more desirable gear ratio unless you have mega horse power ..
Also keep in mind your current matching axles do have a $500 - $600 resale value without the springs ..
Also keep in mind your current matching axles do have a $500 - $600 resale value without the springs ..
#25
06-26-2014, 01:09 PM
#27
06-26-2014, 01:58 PM
1977.5 F250 4x4 (lowboy) with 4" lift and 35" tires .. Just to give you an idea of what it might look like with just enough lift to do crossover steering should you decide to go that route ..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12642251
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12642251
#28
06-26-2014, 03:55 PM
#29
06-27-2014, 08:45 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stockholm, NJ
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
spray painiting the frame
Another noobie question. I have a compressor and spray gun, but have never actually used the spray gun. I 'd like to try and sray the frame (once I have it cleaned) using the gun as opposesd to rattle cans. I'm going to follow Mike's lead and use the Rustoleum Red primer and then the satin black. What's the best guidance for getting the primer and paint ready to spray? I watched someone else do it and saw how he 'thinned' out the paint before putting in the spray gun (not sure if that is the right term, but that's what he said).
#30
06-27-2014, 09:19 AM
Another noobie question. I have a compressor and spray gun, but have never actually used the spray gun. I 'd like to try and sray the frame (once I have it cleaned) using the gun as opposesd to rattle cans. I'm going to follow Mike's lead and use the Rustoleum Red primer and then the satin black. What's the best guidance for getting the primer and paint ready to spray? I watched someone else do it and saw how he 'thinned' out the paint before putting in the spray gun (not sure if that is the right term, but that's what he said).