The lug bolt head is on the back side of the rotor and then it goes thru the rotor and thru the hub and the lug bolt splines are what locks the parts together.

A press is very much suggested to press out the lug bolts and press them back in. Putting a junk lug nut on and using a (BF) hammer to remove or or reinstall is not the best idea, due to you will not them back in as tight as they should be.

You will be tightening up your lug nuts for weeks, and a hammer is a great way to get them started crooked.

Even using a lug nut and a washer stack up and a impact. But that set up will work for trail side repairs.

That is why folks just buy the complete set up. You get new hubs with races, new rotors and new lug bolts. Also a great time to up grade lug bolts from 1/2 to 9/16, I think I am right on sizes?

Look at what I found....

 

Thanks for all the info on crossover steering!

I now have the tool to remove the wheel bearing. Do I need to mark the location of the spindle nut (like it showed in the brake thread) or not bother because I'm probably going to with all new parts?

 

so I bought the tool to take off the wheel bearing lock nut. is there another special tool to remove this one?

 

No special tool for that. You can take a small screw driver and put a bend on the end, or a small piece of roundstock (bent and flattened out on the end), or a small pick. It is just slid on there, it pulls straight out, you will have to wiggle it from side to side.
I have a little tool like that in my toolbox, if I was home I'd post a picture of it for you.

 

Ok. I got it out. I'm now down to the spindle. I took the five nuts off. Does the spindle just wiggle loose? Does it need any "persuasion"? I'm done for the night (it's STEELERS time!) but I'm hoping to finish tomorrow. I hope the passenger side goes much quicker

Thanks for all the help!

 

Persuasion is the correct term. A BFH and a block of wood usually works for me. Just wiggle it back and forth with the hammer and wood. You'll start seeing a gap.
I've heard there is a spindle puller, but I have no idea about that.

 

Its not a tool for the "wheel bearing" its a hub disassembly socket.....

Using a "spindle puller" is an good option, I mentioned that earlier. Can probably rent it at the same place to get the ball joint tool kit....so you do not mess up the threads on the end.

Once you get it off you will see how the brake shield is installed.

 

I'm about to try and remove spindle. Once that's done (and passenger side) i want to remove the entire differential. I'm assuming I need to do the following:
1. Jack up frame and put jackstands under it
2. Drain the fluid
3. Remove steering components
4. Remove shock absorbers (jack still under differential)
5. Remove/cut u-bolts
6. Lower differential and slide out from under truck

Does that sound right? Brake lines are already removed.

 

I'd just remove the complete axle (why, might I ask....anyway) and then work on removing the spindle after it is out from under the truck. Safer that way IMO.

Leave the rear tires on for stability and chock them securely! Yes jack up the truck (VERY SECURELY) far enough that the front suspension (leafs) are at full droop, and jack stand the truck (again very securely) CEMENT BLOCKS ARE NOT JACK STANDS and even put a back up fall support.

Like the front wheels and tires somewhere under the frame, say just aft of the leaf spring shackle. since your cross member is gone that's out of the question.

Only steering you have to disconnect to remove axle, is the pitman arm from the steering box. Got a tie rod fork?

Drain it later, shocks just the bottom for now, use a wire brush and lots of brake cleaner to clean the fine threads of the u-bolts, if you want to be able to reuse the u bolts later but.....

But a good idea is to just replace the u-bolts, Skyjacker sales a kit set cheap enough.

Remove calipers from rotors and use wire to hang them from frame.

Axle is HEAVY, so a floor jack plate in the middle of the axle will not work, diff throws it off balance.

Set it down on a 4x4 sheet of 3/4 ply wood and use a lawn mower to drag the ply wood....redneckin.

Ah the beginnings of a full frame off restoration start like this.

No such thing a overkill on jack stands and being careful, people get hurt OR WORSE all the time doing this stuff.

My back up is the middle post.

 

 

Oh hell ya found my monster mower pics, lol. That is NOT my Bud Light setting on the edge of the trailer.

Same guy tows that trailer, with this truck. See any resemblance?

 

I thought that if I was going to replace the axles and everything, I had to remove the differential. If it can just stay in place, then I'll leave it alone.


I did get the spindle off. Do I want to remove the axle now?

 

I got all of these bolts loose (surprisingly) except #6 which is corroded and will have to be cut off. Do I want to take these off? If we are going with a 4" lift and crossover steering, don't they have to come off? Even if we don't. I'd still like to clean the parts up and paint them.

 

No man, sorry if we confused you. Absolutely leave the complete axle housing u bolted under the truck unless you are replacing the whole thing with a D60

Yes is you are going to replace the ball joints...just pull them. You have to, to get the steering knuckle off, to get to the ball joints. The ball joints are what holds the steering knuckle on. And you have to any way to be able to replace the axle u joints.

 

OK. How does the lower ball joint come out? Is there a nut under the axle u-joint?