I recently acquired a 1993 Ford F350. It's got I-beams and pivot bushings on the front end. One bracket was broken (the one that attaches to the I-beam going to the driver's side wheel) and both bushings needed replaced. Bracket has been replaced and new bushing pressed in. However, now the two don't line up. My theory is that when the bracket broke, it knocked the truck out of alignment and some hack alignment guy did an alignment, aligning the wheel with the broken bracket, and now that the bracket is back where it belongs, it doesn't line up. I can move it back and forth by jacking up either side and/or turnung the wheels, just not far enough. I can't take it to a shop because I can't move it.

Anyone have experience with such a thing?

 

Use a tape measure and measure from the same spot on the tread of the tire on each side, front and back of the tire, as high as you can get the tape measure from tire to tire. Adjust your tie rods accordingly to get both front and back measurements equal, or 1/16" closer on the front, which should get you good enough to take to a shop and get a proper alignment.

 

+1 bolt it in where it's supposed to be then set the toe with a tape measure to get it close enough to drive to a shop for alignment. Rear wheel drive so you want a little toe don't go with zero.

Verify there are no other worn parts before taking it in.

 

I can adjust the tie rods but the reason I can't move the truck is because the I-beam is just hanging there. Wheels aligned or not that I beam has to mate with the bracket.

 

That parts not clear, sounded like you had it bolted in but the alignment was jacked off to point couldn't be driven were not sure what to do.

If you installed the correct bracket no reason it wouldn't line up, you might have to make it do so however doing so would put the I beam back into its correct position. Been driven broke and out of place, completely disregard where it used to be.

Then correct the toe to point you can drive it to get a alignment.

Perhaps some pictures might prove helpful if for some reason it can not be done, often a picture or two is worth a thousand words. Only thing comes to mind that could prevent it would be incorrect bracket or bracket not installed correctly. Might be more than that but keep in mind we can't see what you see at this point.

 

Sorry if I was unclear, but yes the problem I have is that the I beam and the bracket aren't lining up to where I can put a bolt in there. To begin with the I beam was to far to the drivers side, so I jacked it up on the drivers side frame, letting the spring decompress and removed the wheel. Then I loosened up the radius arm (1-1/8" bolt underneath) until it lined up, raised it to the appropriate height and attempted to put the bolt in. I got it in the front of the bracket and the bushing but it hit high on the back of the bracket. No amount of raising or lowering would allow me to get the bolt lined up to pass all the way through. Now after a few more similar manipulations the I beam is too far to the passenger side and I'm having trouble getting it back, and the radius arm is tight.

 

Your description here while helps some keep in mind still lacks "being there" seeing what you see and in any given position of the I beam, its relation to the new bracket etc etc.

Just to be clear when you say Then I loosened up the radius arm you're talking its rear most end, the large nut at the end of it where it goes through the bracket riveted to the frame rail?

With that bracket broke how far "out" from where that end of the I beam is supposed to be when in its normal position bracket not broke?
If out of place by a fairly large distance, we talking moved out of place by inches here or fractions of an inch? and then separated on one plane? or multiple planes? and been driven that way for many moons it is possible the I beam, the radius arm, or both are bent and bent to much to allow for it to line up at this point bracket now replaced.

 

Removal

Remove front coil spring and radius arm
Remove attaching nuts and bolts and remove axle pivot bracket

Installation

Position axle pivot bracket to the crossmember. Loosely install bolts, bolt and retainer nuts. Note: the two rearward vertical bolts must be installed with the bolt heads next to the engine oil pan to maintain required clearance. The bolt and retainer assembly must be installed with the bolt heads on the inside surface of the pivot bracket

To ensure correct positioning of the axle pivot brackets tighten the two forward (horizontal) fasteners to 110 ft lbs. Then tighten the rear (vertical) bolts and nuts to 110 ft lbs.

Install the I-Beam axle and wheel spindle assembly, front spring and radius arm.

 

When I say I loosened the radius arm, I mean the bolt where it connects to the i-beam directly behind the drivers side front wheel.

I don't want to take off the radius arm and spring unless absolutely necessary.

I am trying to post a picture but it won't let me click the "browse computer" button.

 

Can you drag and drop the picture?

 

I could if I had a computer, but I'm on a smartphone.

 

I have the Motorcraft / Ford "dealership" stuff, AllData and 4 other subscriptions and they're all pretty much saying those steps

 

You can see the new bracket, nice and black. The silver in the left of the hole on the bracket is the right of the hole in the bushing.

 

Heck you dang near got it, stick a bar in there between the bracket and the end of the I beam and pry it over until the hole lines up.
If don't have one use large shaft screw driver as drift once get it close to line it up better and to prevent loosing everything you gain once get it near dead on.

If you don't have a suitable pry bar on hand put a jack under the outer end of the I beam, lift the wheel so as its just touching the ground (only a little bit, lift to much inner end will come down just enough to take some weight off the wheel). Then lay on your side and with your foot boot the drivers side wheel out a little bit until the hole lines up. Lay so as you can watch the bolt hole as you kick the wheel over little bit.

If you have to you can go the other way, that means moving more steel though.....

 

I can't move it with a prybar.