Hey everyone. Bout ready to roll my truck into a pond and cut my losses haha.

Have a E4OD that I discovered had sticking vales. Took out the VB's and polished the valves. Everything slid beautifully. Trans only has 180k on it.

I put it back on, filled it with new fluid, some Lucas trans fix, and cycled reverse and drive to get the fluid to its appropriate places. Well now reverse doesn't want to engage unless I rev it kinda high and it'll slam into gear. Still does it after I drove it down the block to find out I only get 1st gear and it slips going into 2nd. No gears past that.

Any clues? Help? Tips and tricks?

 

Welcome to FEP, Smokey.

Sounds like your torque converter hasn't filled completely. Have you rechecked the fluid level? It sounds like the fluid level is still low.

If the fluid level is fine, you might take a look at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) located in the top of the rear differential. Unhook the connector, remove the holddown bolt and VSS, wipe it off, (do not use any chemicals or cleaners), inspect the tone ring for broken/missing teeth. If all looks good, reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

You didn't state the year of your truck, but on my '97, the PSOM is going out. My speedometer will stop working, the needle will drop to the bottom of whichever side it's on, the odometer display will blank out, the mileage reading will be lower than it was before the odometer display blanked out, and you can hear an audible "click" sound. If the transmission is not in OD when this happens, subsequent shifts will be extremely harsh between gears. The OD light will begin flashing, too. Sometimes the transmission will hold first gear until I press the "Select" button one or more times.

 

It's a 96 F350 CCLB 7.3l

Thanks! And thank you for the quick reply. I run a ranch and this is my only heavy duty truck. Haha.

I just replaced the VSS, the teeth are good, and I don't have any change whether the OD light is on or not. Doesn't flash either.

 

did you recheck the tranny fluid level like he said it sounds like its still low

 

Fluid is on the money

 

I'm hoping Mark will see this and chime in. The engagement issue you mentioned is usually related to a low-fluid condition. If the fluid level is good, then we need to look elsewhere. I'll look through my service manual to see if I can find another reason.

The shifting issue has usually been associated with a dirty or bad VSS on my rig.

OD light on or off is normal condition for the overdrive system, but a flashing OD light means a code has been set. Have you tried having the codes read to see if anything is going on there? That might help lead us down a specific troubleshooting path.

 

The scanner I have doesn't read Ford PSD and neither does anyone else's in the area that I've found.

Only other place I guess would be to take it yo a Ford dealer to be read but the nearest place is 25 miles from here. No way this transmission would make it there. Plus they'd probably charge me an arm and a leg.

 

Okay. My troubleshooting guide is leaning towards low fluid level, bad fluid condition, damaged gaskets, and loose component bolts. Since you had the transmission open to fix the valve body, AND you installed Lucas Trans Fix, I'm wondering if the bolts weren't tightened to specifications. I have no experience with Lucas Trans Fix, so I don't know if that might be part of the problem or not.

How about this as a possible process?
1. Recheck all the bolts you loosened previously when working with the valve body.
2. Refill with fresh fluid without using the Lucas Trans Fix.
3. Cycle the transmission through all the gears, not just Drive and Reverse.
4. Recheck fluid level and adjust accordingly.

** Better yet, do #3 and #4 now. If that doesn't correct the condition, start at #1 and work your way down the list. If that doesn't do the trick, we enter the testing category where you need the tools and experience to test line pressures, and stall speed.

Oh, just thought of something else. Did you remove the MLPS from the transmission at any time? It may be out of adjustment.

 

Yea, they would. Here they charge a $99 "Diagnostic Fee" to hook up a scanner.

Can you get to an AutoZone or other auto parts place that might loan or rent a scanner? My local AutoZone rents tools of all kinds AND they will scan for codes at no charge.

Edit:
If they don't rent scanners, it might be a good thing to buy, especially due to your physical location and remoteness related to services.

 

1st
What was the Original problem?
What was it doing that you thought it had a sticky valve?

 

The scanner I have I bought from autozone. They nor OReilly's can't read the truck right either.

The original problem was when I swapped the engine and transmission from a donor truck into mine, the transmission was flawlessly shifting; Strong. After the install, first test drive it didn't want to shift past second. Since this wasn't the first time I'd encounter this problem since the last transmission I took off the VB's to inspect them. Couple valves stuck. Any who, after the 4th time now taking them off and finally polishing them until they were smooth as a babies behind, it still doesn't want to shift past 2nd.

All solenoids in the solenoid pack work and full power is making it to the plug.

I made sure the bodies were tighten down to specs, oil is new, filter is new, and lines were blown out.

Phew! Lot typing lol.

I'm down to assuming SS1 isn't opening it's circuit to let it shift into 3rd but I have no idea where to begin.

 

the lucas stuff was not the best of ideas if you ask me.

their additives are not good for oil.

Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy
Go check their tests of it out, you'll never buy it again.

 

as well, check the whole wiring harness from the trans to where it plugs into the main harness.

it sounds like your having an electrical issue more than a vb's not working issue.

 

A few times doing this and you won't have a reverse clutch any longer.

That doesn't sound like a shift solenoid. It might be the EPC (Electronic Pressure Control), but my guess is that something is wrong with the valve body installation or it has the wrong filter and it fell out.
This one is definitely not the VSS. The VSS has nothing to do with reverse, and it won't make it slide into second gear.

Autozone CANNOT read any codes that would be useful for this diagnosis. Getting codes read there is as useful as asking me to do it over the internet.
It may be electrical, but I'm leaning towards a pressure problem. There is NOTHING electrical that can prevent a reverse engagement unless the engine is revved.

You may want to put a 0-350 PSI gauge in the pressure test port and see what pressure you have in P, R, D, 2, and 1. Check at idle, and if it will engage without slipping, check at stall. Stall is with the go pedal and the stop pedal both on the floor with the truck not moving.

 

Thank you everyone who's been helping me out. I appreciate it all

After this last time cleaning the valve bodies, reverse works great now. No delay at all.

The install was done correctly and the filter in the correct one and has not fallen out.

I'm trying to find someone in my area with a real nice scanner so I can check the truck but no dice :/

I'll check out the EPC today.