I just received the GearboxZ Tachyon+ tuner and the FloPro DPF/DOC pipes. The Tachyon+ tuner will do the DPF, DOC, and EGR delete. I was mistaken how it works. I thought it was selectable. In other words, you can pick which functions you want to delete. I do plan on installing EGR block off plates, but I was going to do that later. I called GearboxZ and asked if I could install the tachyon+ tuner without EGR block off plates. They said yes. The tuner disables the EGR valve and I wouldn't get a check engine light or a wrench symbol. Does this sound right?

 

Yep, Same with H&S and probably others, disables the valve itself, has nothing to do with the coolers or the equipment. I ran with mine like that for a about a year before I got rid of all the equipment.

 

Yep. I just unplugged my valve and put two resistors on the throttle plate motor connector. You have to short pins 1&3 and 2&4 with kilo ohm resistors. This will keep you from getting a throttle plate motor code. The debate is...if the valve is off then there will be no exhaust going though the coolers. So they should not need to be deleted and can be left in place. There is much speculation on the block off plates vs. back pressure and so on. So, with so much different information, i just left it all in place with everything unplugged. Get a new egt sensor (ford #8C3Z-5J213-D) there are a ton of different sensors that are like a letter different with the same numbers...they are different sensors. I got my sensor off ebay for $25 (dumb luck) but you can get them for $60, the dealer will want over a hundred. You will not get the egt sensor after the dpf out. The rest will come out with a good penetrating spray. Do not start the truck (or even turn on they key) with any of the sensors unplugged. If you do... leave the key on, plug the sensor back in and then turn off the key. Walk away for an hour and all should be ok. If the computer sees the sensor missing it will lock out the truck (i.e. no start). Plugging it back in with key on allows it to see the sensor back in place and then the waiting time is...fords punishment on you for removing it... It is a nice tuner. I like mine and keep it set a power level 2 which is stock power. Level 3 is their 70hp over economy tune. Levels 4 and 5 are there just to compete with the other tuners so they have not really bothered to dyno those levels. Speculation says they are 100 and 150hp over others say 150 and 200... Who knows, if you tow do so at level 2 if you are not keep it on 3 which is their economy tune.

 

I got the DPF/DOC out and installed the FloPro pipes. It probably took about 6 hours. An extra set of hands would be helpful and make those go quicker. To my surprise, everything broke free fairly easy. I did struggle with one bolt on the flange at the downpipe. The top bolt is in an awkward place with lots of stuff around. I got a ratchet on it, but could only get about one ratchet click with each turn. I also struggled with the doughnut hangers. To get the DPF to break free from the pipe leading to the muffler, I had to use ratchet straps. I wrapped one around the DPF and then hooked it to the front axle. I took another one and wrapped it around the muffler and hooked it to the rear bumper (not an original idea of mine........read hear on FTE). I alternated by cranking on the DPF ratchet and then PB blaster and hammer the joint. It slowly moved out and I was able to remove the DPF. As Rock_Doctor pointed out, the rear sensor does not come out. I did not want to break it just in case I need to reinstall the DPF, so I went to the Ford dealer and bought a new one ($75).

Not that I'm a fan of the doughnut hangers, but the only hanger used by the flopro pipes is the middle one. I can see not using the one near the down pipe, but it seems the one near the DPF/muffler joint should have been used.

Tuning with Tachyon+ was extremely easy. I have it set on power level 2 (stock). I cranked the truck up and let it idle for a few minutes. No black smoke (which is good because I don't want any). I can't really tell that it sounds that different, but maybe I need to take it for a drive.

One question. What is the black cylinder near the downpipe flange? It looks like I could take it off (2 bolts) and reattach to the flopro pipes if I could find a bracket. Any need to do this?

 

The black can is for vibration. You don't need it so just leave it on the old setup. You will not get smoke unless you lean on it and it is only during the time you press on the peddle and the time it takes for the turbos to spool up. Oh by the way, be careful when you pull out of the driveway for the first time. I ended up in the neighbors front yard. Wasn't expecting the truck to actually have a throttle response but now it actually does. Stepped on the peddle like normal and it took off like a rocket. Actually, slid out of the drivers seat... As you pass other cars you can hear the new exhaust note, basically just a loud hissing sound...called the hair drier sound... The resonator (the last can left on the exhaust pipe) is just that a hallow can. So you are now straight piped. I also used ratchet straps. Was the best way to pull the rear section off and then on the center (dpf section) portion. I was shocked how much power that junk robs from the truck. I don't know of any states that spot check emissions but if you ever get caught in one you can program the truck with the engine running. Set it for power 1 which is less then OEM power and should not smoke. When time comes and you have a little extra cash. Pick up an edge insight. It is a digital gauge that plugs into the obd2 port and tells you your voltages, pressures and egts.... It also reads and clears codes. No rush but is good to have to keep an eye on the truck. Well done and i can assure you, your truck thanks you.

 

You will notice a difference on the sound, we have talked about the black cylinder before, I believe it is a vibration damper of some kind.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I took the truck for a spin. I could definitely hear the "hissing" sound. Could not really tell a difference in throttle response, but I'm a pretty light driver anyway.

I did not get the pipes with bungs, so my sensors are zip-tied to the frame. I use Torque Pro and DashCommand to monitor engine parameters. I guess the edge might give me a few more parameters. I watch Craigslist so one my pop up. There is a banks (no price) and a Spartan ($1000 plus 4 in. pipes) currently for sale.

 

Will the Tachyon allow stacking of programmers like the DPF-R 4 and 4+ do? I have the Banks Automind and would like to continue using it once I remove the DPF. I see on the Gearbox Z website, the Tachyon is actually ~$50 cheaper.
I don't need the "plus" stuff, really. Especially if my Banks Automind will still work. I like their programming for towing and for Performance.

If you only want a Banks IQ for monitoring stuff, Banks has them for something like $500 or so...If you wait for one of their sales, they sometimes take 10-15% off...They likely will have a July 4th sale...They usually have them coinside with a holiday like that.

 

Wyo I emailed Gearbox Z a couple weeks ago and they said that the Tachyon will not stack but the 4.0 will. I plan on stacking one with my SCT 9625 soon.

 

Thanks ZP128. The price difference apparently is related to the ability to stack. Looks like I will be lookin to get the 4.0.

 

Well, I went ahead and ordered the GBZ 4.0 so I can take that infernal DPF off. Also ordered the EGR block off plates.
I called them and asked about ability to stack with Banks Automind...they said they did not have actual experience with the Automind but it would stack with the Six Gun...The guy could only give a best guess that based on how the Automind works, that it should be stackable and work fine with their product.
The pipe I have replaces the whole mess...DPF and CAT... With the Banks Exhaust already there, I will have a straight 4" pipe clean through...It will be interesting to hear how that sounds.
I Was prompted to get it done after hauling the 5er up to Spearfish, SD and back last week...It pulled just fine but the DPF did a cleaning every 150 miles or so, using up lots of fuel in the process. And on the way back, on a long drawn out climb with 102 deg outside air temps, it did a DPF clean that took 20 miles to finish. During that time there was some pretty high EGT's and oil temp up to 230 deg.

 

Cool let us know how it turns out.

 

will do. I have not had opportunity to do anything yet, other than squirt pb blaster on sensors and pipe clamps every evening...Hopefully I can get to it this weekend! Not really counting on it though, as family is coming to visit.

 

I was able to get the delete done Saturday. It went pretty smooth for the most part. I had one Homer moment trying to unbolt the the bolts holding the DPF pipe to the down pipe....I was trying to turn the nuts on the bolt and could not budge it...Finally after some struggling, I thought maybe I would try the bolt head intead of the nut and it came right out!

With straight 4" Banks exhaust and cat/dpf delete pipe, I definitley know what you mean by the Blow Dryer sound. I was wondering if anybody has any experience and knows if the factory exhaust pipe with the little muffler on there makes a difference in quieting that down any?

Will update more when have more time.

 

The nuts are welded to the down pipe flange...

No, no matter what dpf back exhaust system you put there it will not quiet it down any. The little can by the rear wheels is a resonator and is actually hollow (you can see right though it). So it is effectively straight piped once the dpf and cat are gone. The only way to get rid of the hair dyer sound is to convert to a single large turbo. I never really understood the sequential turbo deal, the throttle response is no better then the 6.0 but it may be just me... Although, i will say on power setting 3 the truck has nearly no turbo lag.

Good luck and enjoy the new truck...