If you shim the mount shouldn't you shim both sides or else the bolts are not at a rt angle and equal pressure on all sides?
I guess I need another pic

 

Roy,
I would start by installing the original Jag rear soft mounts first. As a rough starting point, place 3/4" thick blocks of wood between the bottom of the frame rail and the top of the steel surrounding the Jag front donut mounts (see pix)
The rear jag mounts will not be parallel to the bottom of the frame rail. You need to either cut the bottom lip of the frame rail and bent it to the parallel position with the jag rear mount and weld it with a spacer or make wedges to place between the bottom of the frame rail and the rear mounts. I made wedges. The pix does not really show the wedge but in the pix you are looking at the thin edge of the wedge. As you know, the jag cross member needs to be level front to rear to insure front end geometry. I did not make the front mounts until I had a fully assembled truck. I have a slight rake and the 3/4" blocks of wood were just about right for leveling the cross member in the end.

 

bill how thick are the wedges at the thick end and did you put some on top of the lower frame rail under the nuts
also how did you locate the mounts by measurement or other placement/jig?

 

Roy,
With it all assembled I can't get a good measurement for the wedge. I would estimate it at about 1/4" tapered to about 1/16". I did install a 1/4"thick x 15" long stiffener bar on top of the lower frame rail with nuts welded to the top for the soft mounts. I also boxed the frame forward of the cab mount. I located by original wheel location using a plumb bob while the original axle was still installed.

 

Yes I found the axle the same way

 

I got a frame f250 parts truck for material the frame is 3/16 I think the f1 is 10 gage

 

Roy, Here are some of the pics that you wanted to see. The front of the truck has settled down a little bit lower than what it is in this pic. I have the front IFS tack welded in place instead of using the bolt in brackets. I was able to get it lower this way. I am going to take it to a front end shop to make sure that I can get it aligned before I finish welding it in place.

This is the rear suspension with the Jag IRS. I used a kit from Snow White LTD in northern California. It was easy to install and has worked out well. This pic is sitting just a little bit higher than what it will probably end up. I have it set high to allow for the extra weight that I will need to add to the truck before I am finished. If it doesn't sit right, I can adjust the springs to make it right. The top bracket is adjustable.


Your F1 will probably be a little bit different but this should give you an idea of what it will look like.
If you need something else, let me know.

Kevin

 

Great stuff, guys! I am envious as hell! Mine is still sitting where I left it.

 

Schoo
the jag ifs rubber mount install is pretty easy. I made shims to go between the top of the rear mounts and the frame. I made mine from quarter inch plate with a piece of 1/8th stock cut half the size of the quarter inch plate then welded them together and ground them down to fit between the frame and the mount. So they ended up being around 1/8th at one end and a little over onenquarter one the other end. I made these by hand with a bench grinder and a file as I don't have a milling machine. I used a piece of quarter inch plate to use on top of the bottom portion of the frame rail - to pinch it all together.

I then made the front brackets to fit the front mount. 49 willard helped me out a lot with measurements and photos - thanks much Bill.
Here is a photo of what I have done.
Good luck
Dan

 

Thanks very much Kevin that is looking nice
Also thank you dan pic help a lot
I'm off to Montana this week end so not able to work on the truck

 

Is it necessary to locate the jag crossmember 1 1/2" forward to center the front wheels??

 

Dan, Looks good!

 

I think that is the 64K $ ?? but dave and trey both are close to this 21 1/2 " from the back jag engine mount to front of the f1 xmember and that is a ball park number that fits close on my truck I have used a tape measure to roughly get an idea for fit
49willard said use a 3/4 block and I pit some measurement and used a level and it was real close to 3/4"
Thanks to all for your input

 

Thanks, great input. I just found and bought a 1983 Jag vanden plus, bad engine but the suspension is solid. $675.00. Be a few weeks before I get to working on it.

 

That depends on what year truck you have 53-56, yes it needs to be moved forward. 48-52 Im not sure, but I don't think so.