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Look what I found in the oil filter housing....I suppose considering the amount of work I did that if this is the only error I made then I did pretty good! LOL
Re-check your cold temps before you crank 'er up or swap the sensors. I've never gotten good readings after just 12 hours in mild weather -- 18 to 24 and mine line up like a firing squad... These chunks-o-iron can hang on to some heat!
Look what I found in the oil filter housing....I suppose considering the amount of work I did that if this is the only error I made then I did pretty good! LOL
Ya think this could be the problem??
Paul
Bingo!
I wouldn't let that guy work on my truck again.....oh wait....nevermind.....sorry
So how did the trucks prostate exam turn out(I take it that was the finger tip of a rubber glove)? jk of course.
I bet you're glad to have that solved. Would have drove me nuts
You could be right. Ya know, I've been thinking about this a lot lately. With an improved OEM Ford oil cooler how can the test and parameters still be valid/applicable?? If you change the hardware you have to change the test and parameters or at least Ford should review everything to validate it.
Let's think through this some more: you did a coolant flush prior to work, did you use VC-9? How much rust 'n crud came out? Did you also pull block plugs and flush them out?
I'm ruling out LPOP due to it having to be an incredible coincidence. It is possible you have a cooler bypass issue and I guess it is possible you have clogged the new cooler some (but doubtful).
How much have you run the truck since the work? I'm wondering if you could still have air pockets in the coolant system...?
Maybe Mchan knows if you could blow air or something down the cooler bypass in the filter base to clear it? Or some other way to verify it isn't bypassing...?
I don't like the new normal idea...
I like air pockets or bypassing some oil around the cooler as best probabilities...