If you drive a diesel you shouldn't care as much about Hp as torque.... That's around 525 iirc
__________________ SOLD-2001, F250, 8''Lift, 38s, Gauges, 6637w/RRCover&ColdAirBox, CCVMod, ITPBoostAnnhilator, PolishedIntake, WarnHubs, AIHDelete, VanTurbo, PlenumReforincementInserts, 4''S.S.StraightPipe, FoilDelete, TuggerKit, CustomLadderBars(IBuilt), 4R100HD, DpTuner, TrainHorn, OnboardTankandPump, HutchAndHarpoonMod, 50CentMod... Some other stuff.... Driving a Cummins now... 576.8 HP and 1138.1 TQ, still here to help when I can
I think you would be lucky to see something like 210 HP at the wheels stock.
Are you doing the simple math of Stock = 250 then DPs 80DD tune must be 330HP then?
I believe more goes into it than that. IIRC it would take more than just intake, exhaust and a stock DP tune to get to 330 HP at the rear wheels.......heck I think 325-350hp is the sweet spot for ACs vs. the stock sticks, unless you like high EGTs.....
BTW, you slapping gauges on that rig?
Steve#2; 2001 Supercab Lariat 7.3L - Air Raid Intake, 5" Magnaflow, RiffRaff OCR & FRx, Leer Cap,EGT, Fuel Pressure & Boost gauges, Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge, John Wood Valve Body, 285 75 16 Duratracs, Rancho 9000s, one Thoroughbred a Dressage Queen and 3 bird dogs
I agree with Chris. The best route to take is make every thing in the rig tight and leak free. Then put gauges on the rig. Then after you get to know your rig a little after the gauges, then and only then proceed to chipping.
The '02-'03's were rated 250/550 stock at the flywheel. You need air in, air out like Chris said. You need gauges to monitor for safety of the engine and tranny, and good tuning. Stock sticks and turbo, you won't see 350hp at the wheels.
This is slightly off topic, but does anyone know what the "7.3 calibration" means in the 2001 notes from this link? It doesn't say anything about hardware changes, so does that mean it's something in the computer?
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